Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Sounds like an 026:hmm3grin2orange:
Nice!
Nice!
Need help splitting case on my 066
- Thread starter lumberjackchef
- Start date
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lumberjackchef
Addicted to ArboristSite
If your 026 sounds and runs like that, I want to buy it! Name your price.:biggrinbounce2: I could pack one of those around in the woods all day long !
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
O.K. - $2000 
Probably just the crappy "speakers" on my laptop....
Probably just the crappy "speakers" on my laptop....
lumberjackchef
Addicted to ArboristSite
Actually it was probably my $10 Wally World Microphone:hmm3grin2orange:
stihl044forfree
ArboristSite Member
so is this tool to push the crank out and if it is
did you grind down the screw to a poited or is it just the way it was purchased?
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
You need to grind a bevel so it centers in the crank
stihl044forfree
ArboristSite Member
i get it knwo i grind it down to look like the end of a wheel puller
like the one yuo used to use to pulll your crank
like the one yuo used to use to pulll your crank
NovaMan
ArboristSite Operative
This thread makes me want to get a project saw.Anybody got a 192T with a smoked piston and cylinder? :greenchainsaw:
stihl044forfree
ArboristSite Member
no but i have a poulan 16 inch with fried bearings you can have for 50 bucks
lol
lol
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Anybody got a 192T with a smoked piston and cylinder? :greenchainsaw:
Don't do it... a burnt up 192 is not a good project saw... neither is a 200T...
RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
no convection oven available,,,
Andy,,
will a regular oven work for heating crankcases to install brg.s and curing paint????
my bud who races outboards uses an old electric oven to heat blocks for sleeve bore installs, and has offerd to let me use it for a couple of my 066's Im finally finishing up????
Here's a few quick pics... yes, I did squirt a little touch-up paint on the casings and bake them at 225F for 30 minutes (convection oven..).
The new bearings are put back into the case halves.
Clutch side - I pressed it in at room temperature TOWARDS the inside of the case (strong flat surface to press against), then mounted the oil pump and gently pressed it back into position against the pump. If you do it towards the pump like the service manual says, it's almost impossible to get the press, case and bearing in the same plane, and the bearing will jamb... The factory has a back-stop that locks against the machined casing where the pump flange mounts to get the right depth. I don't.
Flywheel side - heated the casing to 302F for 20 minutes (convection oven - not radiant) and dropped the bearing into the recess.
Assembly -
Flywheel side. The stihl tool screws (with an adapter) onto the crank. You keep screwing and the crank is pulled though the bearing. Really easy..
Clutch side. Same idea - screw on an adapter onto the crank
Screw on the tool and turn it counter clockwise to pull the crank though the bearing and the crankcase together. I like to set the dowel pins so they just protrude, then punch then in just before the final tighten.
And here it is done... opps... These next two pics are really for another thread... how to determine you port timing the easy way... and look how small that squish is STOCK! And yes, that's with the gasket in... Note how it tapers AWAY from the edge...
More to come on this ... likely another thread...
Andy,,
will a regular oven work for heating crankcases to install brg.s and curing paint????
my bud who races outboards uses an old electric oven to heat blocks for sleeve bore installs, and has offerd to let me use it for a couple of my 066's Im finally finishing up????
stihl044forfree
ArboristSite Member
it should i am going to just use a heat gun and an arpor press to put my bearings in
which buy the way should be here any day
which buy the way should be here any day
chainsawjunky
ArboristSite Guru
If you got a good hair dryer that should work. Andy told me the regular oven don't work as well as the convection oven. I used a hairdryer to slip in the bearings and I also used it on the piston to get the piston pin to slide in. I also put the bearings and piston pin in the freezer just so I could touch them longer before they got hot.
Evan
Evan
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
The "regular" oven can work but you MUST shield the case from the element radiation. Think of a turkey - cover it with foil and it won't char...
If you are painting... I'd heat the oven up, then turn it off and put in the painted item...
If you are painting... I'd heat the oven up, then turn it off and put in the painted item...
Rockfarmer
ArboristSite Guru
Lakeside, Im trying to split my 045, I made a pusher, bolted it to the bar studs but she doesnt want to split easily. I see on p.2 you mentioned 2 dowels. Should I be pushing these out first before splitting case halves and how? I'm worried these things are rusted and set in good like the flywheel was and wont budge. Also when I start hammering these things are they going to mushroom out and then be really stuck?
Excellent thread here,.. very clear and great pics, thanks a million
Excellent thread here,.. very clear and great pics, thanks a million
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
You must punch out the dowel pins first.... Just use a flat end punch and a hammer to TAP them out... They are hardened steel - won't mushroom (easily).
RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
Wow,,,
its Good to see these good old treds (ST for threads) being found by the search function by the newbs and stihl being used!!!!!!!! rep coming!!!!!!! Rock farmer!!!!!!
Kudos to Lakeside for his work here,,, He is a great guy!!!!!!!! And he likes a good Micro Brewed Beer!!!! and now so do I,,,,, a formerly known Budwieser fan!!!!!!! Not any more!!!!!!! Give me a good dark porter or an amber looking full bodied IPA,,, and Im good to go after a couple/three Ehhh? My lil Kiwi buddy??????? LOLOL!!!!
Lakeside, Im trying to split my 045, I made a pusher, bolted it to the bar studs but she doesnt want to split easily. I see on p.2 you mentioned 2 dowels. Should I be pushing these out first before splitting case halves and how? I'm worried these things are rusted and set in good like the flywheel was and wont budge. Also when I start hammering these things are they going to mushroom out and then be really stuck?
Excellent thread here,.. very clear and great pics, thanks a million
its Good to see these good old treds (ST for threads) being found by the search function by the newbs and stihl being used!!!!!!!! rep coming!!!!!!! Rock farmer!!!!!!
Kudos to Lakeside for his work here,,, He is a great guy!!!!!!!! And he likes a good Micro Brewed Beer!!!! and now so do I,,,,, a formerly known Budwieser fan!!!!!!! Not any more!!!!!!! Give me a good dark porter or an amber looking full bodied IPA,,, and Im good to go after a couple/three Ehhh? My lil Kiwi buddy??????? LOLOL!!!!
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Rockfarmer
ArboristSite Guru
its Good to see these good old treds (ST for threads) being found by the search function by the newbs and stihl being used!!!!!!!! rep coming!!!!!!! Rock farmer!!!!!!
Kudos to Lakeside for his work here,,, He is a great guy!!!!!!!! And he likes a good Micro Brewed Beer!!!! and now so do I,,,,, a formerly known Budwieser fan!!!!!!! Not any more!!!!!!! Give me a good dark porter or an amber looking full bodied IPA,,, and Im good to go after a couple/three Ehhh? My lil Kiwi buddy??????? LOLOL!!!!
You guys are the ones that deserve the rep! What a great find!
:agree2: super2nr
ArboristSite Lurker
remove cylinder and piston and all exturnal parts,so all you have is a bare crankcase.Remove crankcase screws,heat around bearings with propane torch,crankcase should come apart very easly.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
That doesn't work on almost all pro stihls - they have the a steel insert in the clutch side. It can work on the FW side, but often the bearing is slightly corroded into the case...
