Need help splitting case on my 066

[Dan Forsh]

some more...

 

[lumberjackchef]

OK Bearings are in , a little help with the crank?

I tried to pull it in with the different lenghts of pipe. But I can only get it to go in so far. How close should the counter balance be to the inside of crankcase? :help:

 

[Lakeside53]

Real close...

Once you have it mostly togther, just use the the case screws (or longer screws) to gently and evenly pull it togther...

 

[lumberjackchef]

That wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. It back in one piece, and seals are in. I'm almost back on the road. Thanks again for all of your help guys. I really appreciate it. Happy new year to everyone as well! Keep those roostertails flying high and long as we take on 07'.

 

[Lakeside53]

If the crank seems little tight after assembly, it's because of axial preload on the bearings. Just tap the crank firmly on the end with a dead-blow hammer - try either side until it centers and/or spins freely.

 

[thompson1600]

Hey Lake,

I'm getting one red X on a photo is #21 still. The one where you are pressing out the flywheel side. Thanks

 

[lumberjackchef]

The only things that I have left to do now are the handles and finish modding the muffler. Then it will be show time. Can't wait to fire it up. Any special precautions that I should take? I gues I should explain all that I have done first to give a little context to the question.

1) replaced crank bearings, seals, gaskets, piston, rings, wrist pin, and 1 AV buffer.

2) Decarbonized and slightly modified cylinder, raised exhaust 1mm, smoothed out all casting imperfections, polished with emery cloth.

3) Shaved 1mm off of intake side of piston.

4) opened up and dual ported muffler.(almost finished)

I know that the carb will need readjusting, and I just got my tach in the mail the other day. I'll have to put it through its paces. So far I have added about a Tbsp of 2 stroke oil to the crankcase and coated all other parts and the cylinder walls before installing on the case. I just want to be as cautious as possible because this is basically a present for a buddy of mine. He brought me his beat up old 066 that the dealers around here told him to retire. So if there are any other important precautions that I should know about please, do tell....... this has been a great way to learn and if I screw it up I'll just have to trade him mine. LOL

 

[RiverRat2]

The only things that I have left to do now are the handles and finish modding the muffler. Then it will be show time. Can't wait to fire it up. Any special precautions that I should take? I gues I should explain all that I have done first to give a little context to the question.

1) replaced crank bearings, seals, gaskets, piston, rings, wrist pin, and 1 AV buffer.

2) Decarbonized and slightly modified cylinder, raised exhaust 1mm, smoothed out all casting imperfections, polished with emery cloth.

3) Shaved 1mm off of intake side of piston.

4) opened up and dual ported muffler.(almost finished)



I know that the carb will need readjusting, and I just got my tach in the mail the other day. I'll have to put it through its paces. So far I have added about a Tbsp of 2 stroke oil to the crankcase and coated all other parts and the cylinder walls before installing on the case. I just want to be as cautious as possible because this is basically a present for a buddy of mine. He brought me his beat up old 066 that the dealers around here told him to retire. So if there are any other important precautions that I should know about please, do tell....... this has been a great way to learn and if I screw it up I'll just have to trade him mine. LOL

Do you have any pix????? Did you put a kit in the carb if not I would at least pull the covers (taking care if the gaskets are stuck not to damage them a razor blade or very thin knife help them free and check that the metering diaphram is supple and not stiff and crackely, if metering diaphram is not pliable then its time for a kit anyway,, make sure cab body it is not full of trash, make sure the needle valve operates easily and is not stuck. if its a walbro make sure the end of the inlet control lever is level with the little indention it resides in,,,, I will pour a little mixed fuel in it holding my finger over the strainer orifice on the bottom and then let go and watch the fuel level drop it should fall rapidly if it dosent then you need to clean out all he passages. check the idle circuit orifice from fuel pump side into veturi bore @ bottom,make sure it is clear.. i use fine piano wire to rod out when found to be plugged flip the carb body over and make sure the strainer is clean...

Oh make sure after the cylinder is on with the spark plug removed that it spins over freely several times after that then it is time to put the plug & fuel in it and let her rip I like to crank it and let it run a bit and get up to operating temp and get stop it and check every thing no leaks chek the base line adjustment of the carb by gently bottoming out both L & H then back them out one full turn each then heat it up again before you adjust the carb and I would start out a little on the rich side on the High jet...Lakeside will tell you it is better to sart out a little rich than too lean............ Good luck

 

[RiverRat2]

when you ported it did you widen the ends of the exhaust port any and raise the roof 1mm,,,,what tool did you use to remove material @# the exhst port cylinder wall transition tha did not damage the bore plating????

 

[lumberjackchef]

I used a carbide bit and my dremel,then polished it with emery cloth and 800 grit. What kind of trouble could I have caused? Hope I didn't screw it up. Thanks for your input.

 

[rupedoggy]

When you raised the exhaust and polished it, did you remember to chamfer the edge? If you leave a nice 90 degree edge the ring will snag and shortly ruin everything you have tried to accomplish. Mike

 

[lumberjackchef]

yes I did chamfer the edge ,to the best of my ability anyway. Thats a difficult spot for me. It seems to pull over quite smoothly though. Would it snag on every single pass or only after firing up the engine and at higher rpm's?

 

[RiverRat2]

yes I did chamfer the edge ,to the best of my ability anyway. Thats a difficult spot for me. It seems to pull over quite smoothly though. Would it snag on every single pass or only after firing up the engine and at higher rpm's?

If you did a good job of chamfering the edge and used a carbide stone for the bulk material removal at cylinder transition and polished your chamfered work area you should be good to go and as you said the roating assembly spins over freely by hand, put the starter on and spin it pretty good and then inspect the piston closely from the top&skirt at bdc to tdc and if it looks nice with no marks I'd put the Muffler on it and bust it off and put a couple of mild heat runs on it adjust the carb (maybe pull the front muffler cover, you did open the inner baffel up a bit?) and see what the piston looks like if it looks good,,go for it and see what she will do!!!!!!!!!! some may think that is overkill but it is what I do and I have not had a problem yet.... did you take the 1mm exhaust mod around the ends of the exhaust port???(made it wider)

 

[rupedoggy]

Sounds like you are good to go. Mike

 

[lumberjackchef]

put the starter on and spin it pretty good and then inspect the piston closely from the top&skirt at bdc to tdc and if it looks nice with no marks I'd put the Muffler on it and bust it off and put a couple of mild heat runs on it adjust the carb

I have done all of this except fire it up. Everything looks good so when I get home today and finish the muffler I will fire it up and adjust the carb like you said. Thanks again for all of your input.

 

[RiverRat2]

you are very welcome, let us know how it runs,,, sounds like a cool mod job. one more time,,, did you widen the exhaust port a mm on each side and where did you get the carbide tool for your dremel???? Happy new year

 

[Lakeside53]

The only things that I have left to do now are the handles and finish modding the muffler. Then it will be show time. Can't wait to fire it up. Any special precautions that I should take? I gues I should explain all that I have done first to give a little context to the question.

1) replaced crank bearings, seals, gaskets, piston, rings, wrist pin, and 1 AV buffer.

2) Decarbonized and slightly modified cylinder, raised exhaust 1mm, smoothed out all casting imperfections, polished with emery cloth.

3) Shaved 1mm off of intake side of piston.

4) opened up and dual ported muffler.(almost finished)

I know that the carb will need readjusting, and I just got my tach in the mail the other day. I'll have to put it through its paces. So far I have added about a Tbsp of 2 stroke oil to the crankcase and coated all other parts and the cylinder walls before installing on the case. I just want to be as cautious as possible because this is basically a present for a buddy of mine. He brought me his beat up old 066 that the dealers around here told him to retire. So if there are any other important precautions that I should know about please, do tell....... this has been a great way to learn and if I screw it up I'll just have to trade him mine. LOL

Why did you raise the exhaust a full 1 mm?? That's going to reduce your compression, or am I missing something?

 

[046]

WOW!!! thanks for taking the time to share...

 

[Lakeside53]

Hey Lake,

I'm getting one red X on a photo is #21 still. The one where you are pressing out the flywheel side. Thanks

Fixed! thanks...

 

[RiverRat2]

I wondered about that my self I thought the majic # was about the thickness of the base gasket or about .5mm