Need help troubleshooting 200T-Kill switch not working

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outdoorfan

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This is a well-used saw that I bought second-hand. I just put a new carb (s126) in it. Put it back together and fired it up. Now the kill switch isn't working (it worked before I swapped carbs). So, I took the handle apart. The springs are making contact at the "off" position like they should. The wires are intact.

I started probing around with my multimeter to test for continuity, and I am very confused with what I found:

1. With the rear AV bolt installed there is continuity between that bolt and the spring that is the left-most part of the handle.

2. With the front AV bolt installed there is continuity between the two sides (springs/wires) of the circuit even when the switch is NOT in the "off" position.

Obviously, I don't understand how this system works, but I thought that it only made sense that there would be continuity when the switch is in the "off" position.

So, the saw starts up and runs fine, but it won't shut off without "choking" it. If those continuity readings are correct, where should I look next? I suppose I'll have to trace that black wire that goes down into the housing.

Thanks. (The picture I found while searching the archives.)
 
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Figured I'd post this here instead of the "chainsaw" forum since you guys use this saw all the time.

This is a well-used saw that I bought second-hand. I just put a new carb (s126) in it. Put it back together and fired it up. Now the kill switch isn't working (it worked before I swapped carbs). So, I took the handle apart. The springs are making contact at the "off" position like they should. The wires are intact.

I started probing around with my multimeter to test for continuity, and I am very confused with what I found:

1. With the rear AV bolt installed there is continuity between that bolt and the spring that is the left-most part of the handle.

2. With the front AV bolt installed there is continuity between the two sides (springs/wires) of the circuit even when the switch is NOT in the "off" position.

Obviously, I don't understand how this system works, but I thought that it only made sense that there would be continuity when the switch is in the "off" position.

So, the saw starts up and runs fine, but it won't shut off without "choking" it. If those continuity readings are correct, where should I look next? I suppose I'll have to trace that black wire that goes down into the housing.

Thanks. (The picture I found while searching the archives.)

hard to explain over internet just make sure all the wire and contacts are working if you still cant get it I will pull one apart real quick and help you step by step also check the wires at the coil for good connection also is ground wire connected at the front av mount?
 
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hard to explain over internet just make sure all the wire and contacts are working The wires (the ones that are visible above the saw housing) are intact. The contact points between the handle switch metal rod thingy and the springs are good. I'm looking for an "okay" or "not okay" as to the contuinity between the two springs (both sides of the switch) even when the switch is NOT in the "off" position. if you still cant get it I will pull one apart real quick and help you step by step also check the wires at the coil for good connection I'm not familiar with the coil at all. Where is it located, and/or what must I remove to get at it? And yes, the ground wire is connected at the front AV mount.

Thanks
 
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The wire that attaches to the front AV mounting bolt also attaches to the right spring. The other wire that goes into the housing attaches to the left spring.

the black wire comes from the coil it is located on the left side under the pullstart cover and possible under the flywheel not looking at it now make sure the black wire is attached to the coil follow it up make sure it is attached to the spring then make sure the contacts touch when you turn the switch so in other words the black coil wire shorts out to ground when you turn the switch the small green one by av mount is ground check all your connections maybe you contact springs are not pushed in deep enough in their place and not contacting hope you can figure it out I think a wire is off the coil or the contacts are not touching
 
the black wire comes from the coil it is located on the left side under the pullstart cover and possible under the flywheel not looking at it now make sure the black wire is attached to the coil follow it up make sure it is attached to the spring then make sure the contacts touch when you turn the switch so in other words the black coil wire shorts out to ground when you turn the switch the small green one by av mount is ground check all your connections maybe you contact springs are not pushed in deep enough in their place and not contacting hope you can figure it out I think a wire is off the coil or the contacts are not touching


I'll check the wire connection at the coil. I do think it's under the pull start cover, as I remember seeing something like that when I was in there. It's very possible it got pulled off as I was giving the saw a good cleaning in that location when I had it apart.

The contacts up in the handle are working and good. My other question is still: Why is there continuity between both wires when the swich is not in the "off" position? I have verified that the springs are not touching that metal rod in the switch mechanism, yet there is continuity between the two sides that come from the right AV mounting bolt. When that bolt threads into the housing, it must be contacting something in there to bring continuity to both sides of the switch (both springs) even when the switch is not in the "off" position.

I don't know how to explain it any better.
 
I'll check the wire connection at the coil. I do think it's under the pull start cover, as I remember seeing something like that when I was in there. It's very possible it got pulled off as I was giving the saw a good cleaning in that location when I had it apart.

The contacts up in the handle are working and good. My other question is still: Why is there continuity between both wires when the swich is not in the "off" position? I have verified that the springs are not touching that metal rod in the switch mechanism, yet there is continuity between the two sides that come from the right AV mounting bolt. When that bolt threads into the housing, it must be contacting something in there to bring continuity to both sides of the switch (both springs) even when the switch is not in the "off" position.

I don't know how to explain it any better.

I am not sure not good with meters over internet have to see what you mean just check everything and I think you will get it.
 
I am not sure not good with meters over internet have to see what you mean just check everything and I think you will get it.

on second thought you should be looking for the continuity to go on and off at the coil wire when unplugged from the coil test at the coil end when you turn the switch the cont should change if it dont check everything again
 
Okay, I checked the connection of the black wire at the coil. It is a good connection as there is continuity between its connection at the coil and the spring.

I think I might have two problems:

1. If there's not supposed to be continuity between the black and green wires, EXCEPT when the switch is in the "off" position, then there's something messed up in the housing where the front AV bolt goes through to bring continuity between them when the bolt is installed.

2. If #1 above is true, then the saw shouldn't run at all. But it does start up and run just fine.
 
on second thought you should be looking for the continuity to go on and off at the coil wire when unplugged from the coil test at the coil end when you turn the switch the cont should change if it dont check everything again

Why would it matter whether or not the coil wire is attached to the coil? It seems to me the coil should not be completing the circuit when the switch is in anything but the "off" position.
 
Okay, I checked the connection of the black wire at the coil. It is a good connection as there is continuity between its connection at the coil and the spring.

I think I might have two problems:

1. If there's not supposed to be continuity between the black and green wires, EXCEPT when the switch is in the "off" position, then there's something messed up in the housing where the front AV bolt goes through to bring continuity between them when the bolt is installed.

2. If #1 above is true, then the saw shouldn't run at all. But it does start up and run just fine.
did you turn the switch and see if it changed?somethings not grounding right or the switch contacts are not touching when turned
try to remember what you disturbed when you had it apart
 
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did you turn the switch and see if it changed?somethings not grounding right or the switch contacts are not touching when turned
try to remember what you disturbed when you had it apart


Both springs are contacting the switch rod when the switch is in the "off" position. There is continuity there. The really WEIRD part is that there is still continuity between the two springs even when the switch is not in the "off" position. This only occurs when the front AV bolt is installed. So, the front AV bolt is contacting something in the housing which brings continuity to both sides of the circuit even when the switch ISN'T in the "off" position.

I have no idea what I disturbed last (that would affect this) other than the pull start side cover (when I had it off). I already verified that connection is good (between the coil & black wire).

I did replace that black rubber intake boot that goes under the carb, but I don't see why that would have done anything.

I've gotta run now. I'll check this thread again later this evening.

Thanks for your help.
 
Both springs are contacting the switch rod when the switch is in the "off" position. There is continuity there. The really WEIRD part is that there is still continuity between the two springs even when the switch is not in the "off" position. This only occurs when the front AV bolt is installed. So, the front AV bolt is contacting something in the housing which brings continuity to both sides of the circuit even when the switch ISN'T in the "off" position.

I have not idea what I disturbed last (that would affect this) other than the pull start side cover (when I had it off). I already verified that connection is good (between the coil & black wire).

I did replace that black rubber intake boot that goes under the carb, but I don't see why that would have done anything.

I've gotta run not. I'll check this thread again later this evening.

Thanks for your help.
ok Ill help you later
 

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