Need help with my oregon 510a chain grinder

[kawirider00]

ok i have had this oregon 510a for a few years, i have necer liked it as i can never get a chain that stays sharp, maybe im doing something wrong, let me know if you have any tips, i use oregon 72 lg chains sharpen them ar 55 head tilt 25 on base, use my shapeing block to dress wheel, have tried taking just a bit, have tried more to get a new edge, i have filed the rakers down, even more than enough, i get about 10 cuts and chain goes dull, what are some pointers, i used to have a northern tools cheap one that i bearnt the motor up on that did a better job and that was a 1/10 of the cost

 

[Knobby57]

72 lg is full chizel if I'm correct . Are you using the title feature on the vice, are you just tapping the wheel to the cutting edge, what are you cutting ?, are you letting the chains dull to the point it won't cut anymore before sharpening?are your rakers set properly ?do you have any photos of a chain you sharpened ? You can tailor the way you sharpen a chain to what you are cutting

 

[mopar3]

Maybe its time to switch to semi chisel chain. It stays sharp longer especially if the wood is dirty.

 

[Knobby57]

Maybe its time to switch to semi chisel chain. It stays sharp longer especially if the wood is dirty.

This also dirty, standing dead wood , rotty wood, and punky wood, will dull a full chizel chain fast, also . Running through hard wood a full chizel wont hold up long either

 

[mopar3]

So change your angles a bit. Try tilting the the head to 60 or 65 degrees.


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[kawirider00]

ok i did order semi chisel today as i thought that may be it, wood is mostly live red oak it does get skidded, i will try that 65degree hed tilt

 

[Knobby57]

Rule of thumb steeper angles is a faster cut speed. Also faster chain dulling . You have to find a happy medium to your liking . And without a doubt cutting skid wood is going to trash a chain pretty fast with dirt and rocks stuck in the bark . Semi chisel is the way to go you have a curved cutting blade as opposed to a little point like on fc chain. Semi will last a lot longer . There are those that will ax off the bark and or pressure wash the logs before bucking up skid wood. I'm to lazy for that so I bring extra chains and swap them out the second the slow down


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[mopar3]

I'm thinking less head angle will give less hook to the tooth. Give a thicker top edge that will last longer. I use mostly all Stihl chain and find it to be a little harder to file but stays sharp longer.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

I can't figure out why this thread is in the 101 section.... are you trying to sharpen while up in a tree? It should be in the chainsaw section.

 

[blades]

Your problem is the head tilt, 55 deg is way to far makes your cutting edge way to thin and puts way to much hook in the gullet of the tooth. Use 65 deg ( by the way instructions say 60 deg in the 510 manual) Also make sure you are using the right width wheel. Sometimes the 3/16 will give a better form than the 1/8 on the larger 3/8 chains. Only need just enough hook that the side wall of the cutter is not leading the top edge. When you get the new chain look at the cutters and you will see what I mean.