Need Help with Stihl 066 Rebuild

[Definitive Dave]

Milling is harder on a saw than anything else we ask it to do. Since your plan is to use it for milling I think you should spend the time and money to have the saw perfect. Pressure and vac tests are a must and can tell you what is next. If you still have the OEM cylinder there is a very strong chance someone here can repair it for you inexpensively and you can get a new OEM piston very reasonably now. For milling use I agree with Brad that an OEM top end is appropriate (that is coming from a guy who sold more than 50 aftermarket top ends for 066/660 in the last month). Always go with 32:1 on a good oil with ethanol free fuel that is not more than 2 weeks old. Tune it rich with no limiters and run at least 5 tanks through it before bolting it to a mill. You may be able to find a local guy her on AS who can give you a helping hand and a second set of eyes as well
top mityvac kit - @80.00
cylinder clean up - @50.00
OEM piston - @60.00
AM oil seals - @8.00
AM complete rubber kit - @35.00
so you might be $250 into a complete rebuild unless your cylinder is totally fubar (unlikely)
Dave

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

A vacuum test is mandatory to determine the integrity of the crank seals..., which if leaking can behave like a one way valve that actually closes under pressure. Relying only on a pressure test result does not necessarily indicate good seals. A MityVac 8500 will do both vacuum and pressure tests with the flip of a knob and can be had for around $60 from Amazon and will probably ship the same day from Ky. and be in your hands the next.

Shoot me a PM (conversation) if you still don't have a service manual and/or IPL and I'll hook you up.

There is a ton of good help here that'll get ya up and runnin' again.

And don't buy the Stihl tach unless you're gettin' a hellva deal! Look at the FastTach instead as a great little alternative at a great price.

Good luck with it, and keep the questions coming.

 

[mdavlee]

Not sure what Carb Limiters are, but if they limit the screw travel then NO. I think the total turn possible is less than 1 full turn from totally IN. I did notice that I was unable to adjust it to the point it smoked. It gurgled a little and I think I'm just in from where it gurgled at High Speed. I'm a bit nervous running it long enough at High to adjust the High Speed. I getting ready to order a Stihl Tachometer from ebay vendor, so I'm hoping using RPM-based guide will help me get this perfect. That will be useful for the future anyway.

After the last rebuild, the Idle was adjust so it stays running, but chain does not move.

thanks for the reply.

If you can't screw the screw counter clockwise 4 or 5 turns then the limiters are still there. Should be able to go CCW until the screw is out of the carb.

 

[mdavlee]

Where are you located at?

 

[NkyKelly]

Milling is harder on a saw than anything else we ask it to do. Since your plan is to use it for milling I think you should spend the time and money to have the saw perfect. Pressure and vac tests are a must and can tell you what is next. If you still have the OEM cylinder there is a very strong chance someone here can repair it for you inexpensively and you can get a new OEM piston very reasonably now. For milling use I agree with Brad that an OEM top end is appropriate (that is coming from a guy who sold more than 50 aftermarket top ends for 066/660 in the last month). Always go with 32:1 on a good oil with ethanol free fuel that is not more than 2 weeks old. Tune it rich with no limiters and run at least 5 tanks through it before bolting it to a mill. You may be able to find a local guy her on AS who can give you a helping hand and a second set of eyes as well
top mityvac kit - @80.00
cylinder clean up - @50.00
OEM piston - @60.00
AM oil seals - @8.00
AM complete rubber kit - @35.00
so you might be $250 into a complete rebuild unless your cylinder is totally fubar (unlikely)
Dave

Well Crap. Wished I had checked here before purchasing AM. I had read that the AM Top-end would be less power. The $250 doesn't sound bad really and that would include a tool I can use for other things. I do still have the old cylinder.

Can you point me to a source for "Cylinder Clean Up" and to the correct mityvac kit?

 

[mdavlee]

Mityvac 8500 is a nice set.

Mastermind has a good thread on cylinder clean up.

 

[Definitive Dave]

An AM cylinder is fine for 98% of people, but for milling I have to go OEM, others might disagree but the constant strain on a saw in a mill exposes any miniscule flaws that might never matter in a normal usage saw.
post up a pic of the inside of the cylinder that shows the scoring/transfer/messed up part, I will clean it up for free if it is within my means and if not somebody will chime in I am sure.
Poge a few messages up can point you to the mityvac source it sounds like.
Your local dealer can get you an OEM piston.

 

[Definitive Dave]

if you feel like cleaning up the cylinder yourself I can send you the emery cloth and red scotchbrite and you have a scored AM cylinder to practice on

 

[NkyKelly]

Where are you located at?

Sorry, just getting back to this. I'm located in NKY in the Cincinnati Area

 

[NkyKelly]

So, I thought I had this done correctly. I used the saw a few times on smaller jobs and it seemed to hold up. After 3 uses 10-15 minutes each, I decided my problems were done. I was wrong... I had some unexpected time available last night and I had the itch to Mill some logs that have been waiting in my yard for a few months. I made the initial cut in a 14-16 cherry log. All seemed to work well. It was getting dark so I put the Mill/Saw away. I just went out to verify the saw was still good and it will not start. So it looks like a burned up another Aftermarket Rebuild Kit. Just a bad combination of stupidity and being anxious.

I think I'm down to two options...

1. Have someone rebuild the saw professionally. Sounds like they can use the original OEM Cylinder, but may require new Piston. So, my question would be who does this? Anyone on here? and How much should I expect to pay? If the price is right, I think this is my best option.

2. Have someone "Clean Up" the OEM Cylinder, Purchase new Piston/rings, Seals and all necessary tools (Vacuum Tester esp.) and attempt a better quality rebuild myself.

Thanks again for all of the answers and help. Sorry I was AWOL for a while. Work got a bit crazy which then makes it so I can only do little WW projects.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Be easier to weigh your options if ya knew what roached it again. Best bet is to leave it 'as is' for someone to look over and determine the actual problem(s) before committing to anything. Diagnosis by someone here shouldn't cost you an arm and a leg, though shipping may. If you were closer I'd be happy to at least give it a qwik look-see and do a vac/pressure test to determine where to go next with it. Maybe someone in your area will chime in and check it out for ya.

Last place I'd take it would be a Stihl dealer.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

You'll roast your saw every time when you have it adjusted too lean and the chain ain't right. It doesn't matter how sharp is it if the rakers are too tall. It causes the cut to take a considerable time longer than it should, and at a higher rpm causing a higher running temperature. The carb can be adjusted properly and this will still happen.
Use a brand new out of the box chain for milling, and "FD" rated saw oil.

 

[NkyKelly]

You'll roast your saw every time when you have it adjusted too lean and the chain ain't right. It doesn't matter how sharp is it if the rakers are too tall. It causes the cut to take a considerable time longer than it should, and at a higher rpm causing a higher running temperature. The carb can be adjusted properly and this will still happen.
Use a brand new out of the box chain for milling, and "FD" rated saw oil.

The Bar and Chain were brand new from Bailey's. The Chain is a ripping chain. The saw's had problems long before I put it back on the Mill.

The Carb is actually on the Rich side.

 

[huskihl]

Did you pull the muffler or are you assuming that because it won't start, it must be burned up?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Or ever do a vac/pressure test?

 

[NkyKelly]

Be easier to weigh your options if ya knew what roached it again. Best bet is to leave it 'as is' for someone to look over and determine the actual problem(s) before committing to anything. Diagnosis by someone here shouldn't cost you an arm and a leg, though shipping may. If you were closer I'd be happy to at least give it a qwik look-see and do a vac/pressure test to determine where to go next with it. Maybe someone in your area will chime in and check it out for ya.

Last place I'd take it would be a Stihl dealer.

I think I just made the mistake of assuming it was the Carb adjustments/Carb Boot and that the Seals were good. Bad combination of stupidity and impatience. I'm ready to do it right. I'm happy to pay for shipping and any evaluation if I can find a trusted person here.

Thanks,
Kelly

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

The Bar and Chain were brand new from Bailey's. The Chain is a ripping chain. The saw's had problems long before I put it back on the Mill.

The Carb is actually on the Rich side.

Well you seemed pretty clear about noticing your power drop before you shut it down and how the chain was dull. Then you kinda mentioned it not being too great after running another top end.
I apologize for misinterpreting what you said.

 

[NkyKelly]

Did you pull the muffler or are you assuming that because it won't start, it must be burned up?

I have not. Unfortunately, I'm pretty familiar with the feel and sound of the condition.

Or ever do a vac/pressure test?

I did a pressure test, but was not able to do the Vac Test.

 

[NkyKelly]

Well you seemed pretty clear about noticing your power drop before you shut it down and how the chain was dull. Then you kinda mentioned it not being too great after running another top end.
I apologize for misinterpreting what you said.

I sorry if I came off that way. I appreciate every response. I was just trying to give you the info. That doesn't at mean you are not correct. You are also reading original posts. Embarrassingly, this is the 3rd time I did not notice a power drop or dull chain last night. Just the opposite, it cut pretty good. I will say that the sawdust was finer than I remember it to be from the my original milling days 15+ years ago. So it is possible the rakers are too high.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Quit typing and pull the muffler. Then take pics of the piston through the exhaust port and post em.

We can't see your "feel and sound familiarity of the condition".