Need to pick the brain trust

[VT-Woodchuck]

I took an orange 011 off the shelf today for a look see. I had forgotten why it was on the shelf. A little gas, a pull or two and it started but, as I then remembered, any throttle causes it to stall. I took off the air cleaner and started it again. As I increased the throttle, it stalled and I noticed considerable blow back through the carb. A little more tinkering and I decided it was time to ask the experts. Big problems or something doable???????
TIA

 

[PES+]

Carb kit

Almost positive you will need a complete kit with needle

I am pretty sure I have them but I need the number off the carb and the make

 

[Cut4fun]

Needle could be stuck. Clean and try, if not, new kit sounds in order.

Also wondering this myself, Does reed valves get stuck?

 

[Lakeside53]

Blow-back is very common on this old saw. The biggest problem is the reed block assy - it's not available, and has a nasty habit on not sealing on the case. Use new gaskets and a very good fuel resistant gasket sealer... You can take off the old reed and flip it over. Use blue loctite on the screw.

You'll have one of the old Walbro WA or WT carbs - easy to rebuild, but take careful note of how you get it in and out, and the routing of the fuel/vent lines. Hint - the throttle cable is a PITA unless you figure out how to rotate the carb to get it off, and mark the hole it's located in.

kit? K10 or K20 WAT - check against your carb.

Before you get carried away with the carb, check the fuel filter. It's way down in the tank and you'll need forceps to replace it it so it slides down the channel near the bar side. if the fuel filter is bad, your inlet screen in the carb is likely blocked.


Of course.... set you H &L screws to about 1 to 1 1/4 just incase that's all that's wrong.

 

[Scooterbum]

+1 Everything Lake said is on the money.I just rebuilt one myself.

 

[PES+]

Only one problem.....if the reed is not sealing it would rev but not idle and would be @#$% to start

carry on

 

[Sprig]

Another obvious one (or not) relating to the fuel filter is that the black rubber lines tend to degrade with time and it could simply be collapsing as trottle is applied, one of the easiest fixes but often overlooked and really easy to miss. Don't ask how do I know this :bang: :bang:


and lets us know whats up eh!

 

[Lakeside53]

Only one problem.....if the reed is not sealing it would rev but not idle and would be @#$% to start

carry on

The reply was a pointer to generic problems with the orange version of this saw... and the reason most are put on the shelf or scraped. What usually happens is that it won't idle down after it's hot (chains spins), and the only way to make it do so is to richen up the L, which make it too rich most the time... and a lot of badly adjusted saws result.

Generally it's the reed block, not the actual reed that give the problems. The reed itself is also NLA, so the suggestion is to try to flip it if it's not a good fit. It can help the carb spitback.

 

[PES+]

Just to clarify...you can flip the reed but you can't flip the block....and the reeds usually are not the problem as you say

 

[Lakeside53]

Correct.

 

[VT-Woodchuck]

Thanks

I appreciate all the input. That's why I read this forum every day. I'll report back when I get into it.

 

[DOLMARatOs]

Anyone think of checking the exhaust? Clogged screen will show these symptoms every time. I've seen clogged exhaust to even make a saw start easier for some reason.

my $0.02

 

[PES+]

Good point....I didn't think of that

 

[DOLMARatOs]

Jah.

Sometimes us young pups can manage a real loud bark every now and again. The rest of the time we keep our ears back, tail down and watch the action unfold.

 

[Fish]

If it is the original fuel line, it won't be black..............................

 

[VT-Woodchuck]

Update - w/pic

Took the carb off. The gasket doesn't look great. Picture shows thin silver "gizmo" that doesn't look whole. The triangle piece out of the middle and the jagged edge between 10 and 12 oclock. Next step???
BTW, the fuel lines appear to be good - flexible, etc. The exhaust screen is clean

 

[Lakeside53]

Looks like your reed is shot. Take of the block and show a pic of the underside.

Hard to believe it even ran if it really is like it shows.


Second thoughts... looks like it's been monkeyed with.. can I see a reed beneath that tear??

 

[VT-Woodchuck]

Second thoughts... looks like it's been monkeyed with.. can I see a reed beneath that tear??

There is another shiney, metal piece down a bit. I'll get into it more this weekend. On a previous thread, I believe you stated that the orange 011 and the white 011 are entirely different beasts and not interchangeable - correct? I do have one of each. Also, you said that the reeds are no longer available? Boat anchor material? :hmm3grin2orange:

I really appreciate all the time you put in on this forum, along with many others. It helps us neophytes that lurk about.

 

[Lakeside53]

The reed blocks from the white and orange versions are not interchangable without some machining of the cases..

You can get used reed blocks.. and with the right goop they can usually be made to work..

 

[Fish]

Yeah that tygon looks original, and yes the reed valve is a goner.