New 40cc saw guidance

[chipper1]

Well hell run a modified 150T its lighter by a huge amount.

I've got a 2511t .

 

[lone wolf]

I've got a 2511t .

Did you open the muffler and advance the timing?

 

[chipper1]

Did you open the muffler and advance the timing?

No, the muffler was already done, I should do the timing. I usually use my 200T as I don't do many pruning jobs. I still want a ported rear handle 2511, got one .

 

[Hickahollar]

Well 9 pounds is a pretty lightweight saw. I do have a cs3510 and it runs very well. I also have a poulan pl3314 it's 40cc even though it says 33cc both of those saws I had to tune out of the box the echo wouldn't idle then inhad to fine tune the carb was not bad off. The poulan I had to fiddle with the carb for 6 months before it finally broke in and started running good. I also have a ms250 it's ran perfect from day one but it's 10.1 pounds. Poulan fells a little heavier. That being said I like my echo for the really small stuff 3 to 4 inches max. But the poulan can handle the bigger wood better the echo maybe just a hair faster in 2 inch sticks but 4inch stuff the poulan beats it. Now my ms250 45cc it beats both and not but a couple pounds heavier than the echo. And if I need a saw to cut a 20 inch red oak the 250 will do if in a reasonable amount of time. The echo just bogs up and slows down the poulan is a lot better than the echo but not up to speed with the ms250. I would imagine that the pro saw for 9 pounds would be close to the 250 but lighter. Get a light bar a run it.

 

[Husky77]

Hello all,
I currently am running 2 saws I am looking for a middle ground saw. I have a 362CM that wears a 24" tsumara and a CS2511t for smaller stuff. I would like to get a light 40ish rear handle to fill the gap between the 2.

The two saws I am really interested in are the echo CS-3510 and the new husky 540XP Mk 3

My concerns. The 2511t is a very finicky saw. It ran like crap out of the box and I was able to adjust the carb to make it run but required the purchase of a tach as I could not get it to "4 stroke" out of the cut (rev limiter maybe) when the temps swing by 60-70 degrees the saw needs to be adjusted (I am getting the feel of what I need to do without the tach, but its still annoying). I HATE the fuel and oil caps on this saw!! I also dont like the fact echo has odd length chains (always one tooth longer than the other saws). Other than those, The saw is AMAZING!! what it can do for its weight is wonderful.

My Stihl is great for larger stuff but gets heavy after a while, especially for limbing where I am twisting it around all the time. The M-tronic system has worked FLAWLESS. The saw starts easy and runs great no matter the conditions. I just move the heat door and get to work. If Stihl made a reasonably priced light weight 40cc pro saw I would be very interest in that.. I am not willing to pay over $800 for a heavier ms201c though.

So here is where I need help..
I have never used a husky with autotune. Not sure how well it works or how reliable it is (especially since this is a new saw) I would love the extra power and the listed 2.6hp at 9lbs sounds very appealing to me. I love the Husky caps. I think they are the best you can get. I know the brand and love their older saws.

The Cs-3510, I would guess I would have the same lean/stalling condition the 2511 had when new. But that weight of only 8.2 pounds and 2.1HP is quite nice as well, and it has those terrible caps again.

The big issue is price. I am not a money is no object kind of guy, but I will spend money on value. The echo is UNDER HALF the price of the husky ($639 to $299). I want this to be my last saw in this class. I am over 50 now and don't have a want for a 70cc/50/30cc combo like I was looking at a couple years back.. I think a 60/40/30 would fit my older body's needs better.

I maybe use ALL of my saws 30-40 hours a year. I would like to think this saw would be used in all my cutting scenarios my 362 and the new saw for larger jobs and the new saw and my 2511 for smaller jobs.

What do you guys think? any guidance would be helpful

My honest opinion, get a 550xp. It feels great in the hand and a pleasure to used, quick and easy to manoeuvre. Anti vibration is probably the best I have felt so far, filler caps spot on and so easy. Keep it sharp and look after it and it's the only saw you'll need.

 

[chipper1]

My honest opinion, get a 550xp. It feels great in the hand and a pleasure to used, quick and easy to manoeuvre. Anti vibration is probably the best I have felt so far, filler caps spot on and so easy. Keep it sharp and look after it and it's the only saw you'll need.

Which 550, while I agree both the mk1 and mk2 handle nice, the mk2 is right on the heals(edit, weight wise) of the 362 if it's a late model 362, they're light for a 60(and the 550mk2 is fat for a 50).
The mk1 is the winner for handling out of all the 50cc saws for me.

 

[bsmith717]

Which 550, while I agree both the mk1 and mk2 handle nice, the mk2 is right on the heals(edit, weight wise) of the 362 if it's a late model 362, they're light for a 60(and the 550mk2 is fat for a 50).
The mk1 is the winner for handling out of all the 50cc saws for me.

I’ve heard the mk1 550s were a nightmare when it came to the auto tune/bearings though.

 

[bsmith717]

Okay guys, I received my new GZ4350 and I am pretty happy with the build quality vs price. When I was looking it over I found this little cap hanging by the fuel/return lines in the handle. Any idea what this is for?

Good for you. That’s a really nice saw. I reckon you figured out that cap was nothing to mess with and you’re very happy with your purchase?