New Husky 359 - info request

[markfromark]

I'm waiting on a new 359 - should be shipping today. Based on all the discussions I've read here, I went ahead and ordered a non-cat muffler which I plan to install when it gets here.

The questions I have are:

- What is the best break-in routine for this saw, being brand new?

- I've read that a richer mix is needed w/ the non-cat muffler... but how much richer?

I realize there are tons of discussions on this saw - especially related to the non-cat muffler. I'm just being lazy and hoping to save some type by asking these questions which I'm sure is not for the first time...:welcome:

Thanks in advance.

 

[SawTroll]

1 to 50 Aspen is allways right, even on my old Jreds that call for 1 to 25.......

 

[Mr.]

Well troll, since this is an Arky..................

We do not have Aspen fuel here. I think he was talking about the carb. The 359 will 4 stroke at WOT when rich enough, but be safe and have a shop with a tach tune it. Make them use the tach. Set her below 13,500. I think 13,100-13,300 is a great spot for this saw here.

It's a decent saw. Before long you'll be modding that muffler though. Well if you stick around here.

Fred

 

[minkota1]

Howdy Friend, excellent choice of saw! I love mine. I've got one etech and a non etech, I like to run them a little rich for the first few tanks, (if you've read many posts at all you have heard of the limiter caps, you may have to trim the stops to richen up the mixture) I'd vary the rpm's for the first few tanks, you won't believe how the saw gains power after 5-10 tanks of fuel. It really would be very helpful to search out the proper methods to tune your saw, the folks around here have a tremendous wealth of knowledge that they have shared over the years, and the best I could do is to rehash (and not do as fine a job) the samestuff. Even if you don't plan on modding your muffler read through the mod stuff, covers tuneing real well.
Have fun and be safe:greenchainsaw:

 

[Urbicide]

Hello Mark.

The break-in period will be somewhere around 10 tanks of fuel. The saw will gain in power as it is used. Always use a premium grade of gas and try to avoid fuels which have a lot of alcohol blended into them. Use a quality 2-stroke oil (Husqvarna, Stihl, Echo, Mobil MX2 etc.) Husky calls for a 50 / 1 ratio but you can increase the amount of oil a little if you like. I would not necessarily try to baby the saw while you are breaking it in. Don't operate it at wot (wide open throttle) unless you have the bar contacting wood (in the cut). The engine needs to have a load on it.The drive sprocket bearing will have to be greased periodically. It is easy to do with the 359. Remove the clutch cover, hold the tip of the grease gun into the opening that is drilled into the end of the crankshaft and give it a squirt. Changing the muffler requires the use of a 4mm and a 5mm allen wrench. The 5mm bolts are down in the tubes in the face of the muffler. The best thing in my opinion for setting the carb is to use a tachometer. The 359 is rated for 13,500 wot once the saw has had around 10 tanks of fuel run through it. This applies to e-tech and non e-tech versions. The 359 will turn a lot higher rpm if the mixture is too lean. This is not good. Keep an eye on the air filter. A sharp chain will create wood chips and a dull one will produce dust. The dust will clog the air filter much quicker than larger chips. Husqvarna has about the best air filtration system so they tend to stay cleaner a lot longer than some other brands. You can toss the filter in your washing machine along with the laundry and some here will use their dishwasher (Hi Niko). Congratulations on the new saw and be safe.
opcorn:

 

[markfromark]

Thanks for the good info, guys - appreciated. I've run a saw off and on for several years, but just always cranked it up and run it (Echo CS5000). That's probably got a lot to do with why it's burned up now... I intend to do better with this Husky.

I'm going to have an extra muffler now, so I may go ahead and study up on how to mod the non-cat.

Just FYI - I'm a woodturner and I also burn wood in a fireplace. I occasionally cut some big logs and I'm always making rip cuts for turning blanks.

 

[MAG58]

Congratulations on your new Husqvarna 359

You have got some good advise from others Members here, but anyway this is what I do whit a new saw. Start the saw and let it idle for some minute (over 3 minute, maybe up to 10 minute, let it get hot), rew it lithely a few times (quick wide open throttle, but don’t let it pick up to high RPM), then let it idle for a little time, shut it off and let it be cold. Do this a couple of times before you start cutting whit the saw.
Then let the saw get hot before you start cutting whit it, don’t push it to hard and don’t run it wide open out of the wood.

After at least 3 – 4 hour brake in period, the carb should then be re-tuned, cos the carb is tuned and set to 600 – 700 RPM lower then Max RPM (this is from the factory).
Idle 2 700 RPM, Max 13 500 RPM.

 

[blis]

Congratulations on your new Husqvarna 359

You have got some good advise from others Members here, but anyway this is what I do whit a new saw. Start the saw and let it idle for some minute (over 3 minute, maybe up to 10 minute, let it get hot), rew it lithely a few times (quick wide open throttle, but don’t let it pick up to high RPM), then let it idle for a little time, shut it off and let it be cold. Do this a couple of times before you start cutting whit the saw.
.....

Id like to disagree with that long idling and then shutting it down, since it isnt good for engine becouse it doesnt create enough pressure/vacuum to engine for piston rings to seat properly against cylinder wall... Ofcourse, you are right about letting it idle for while to warm up before cutting, thats right....

Also, you should use the saw like you would normally, again, to create enough force needed for rings to seat againts cylinder. Running it too easy for few first tanks will cause the hone pattern to wear out before the rings are seated well and that will result in less power and less compression...

Otherwise, i agree with you...

 

[MAG58]

Id like to disagree with that long idling and then shutting it down, since it isnt good for engine becouse it doesnt create enough pressure/vacuum to engine for piston rings to seat properly against cylinder wall... Ofcourse, you are right about letting it idle for while to warm up before cutting, thats right....

Also, you should use the saw like you would normally, again, to create enough force needed for rings to seat againts cylinder. Running it too easy for few first tanks will cause the hone pattern to wear out before the rings are seated well and that will result in less power and less compression...

Otherwise, i agree with you...

Not "long" idling, but so long that it get hot, I did also say rew it "lithely" a few times whit quick wide open throttle. You should let a new saw run a couple of time like that before you start cutting whit it. And I did also say "don’t push it to hard", not that it should be run easy.
The rest seem that we agree on.

 

[SawTroll]

... You can toss the filter in your washing machine along with the laundry and some here will use their dishwasher (Hi Niko). Congratulations on the new saw and be safe.
opcorn:

Hi, dishwasher it is!

...and I agree with everything else you said, but to be safe I would say 10 litres, not tanks - but no big deal.........

 

[SawTroll]

Not "long" idling, but so long that it get hot, I did also say rew it "lithely" a few times whit quick wide open throttle. You should let a new saw run a couple of time like that before you start cutting whit it. ......

I don't see the point with doing that......:help:

:biggrinbounce2:

 

[MAG58]

I don't see the point with doing that......:help:

:biggrinbounce2:

OK, I will try to explain what I mean, cos this is almost like a mini “brake in” before the ordinary “brake in”. A brand new engine that haven’t been started and run for any period, you do this to let the engine parts get “stetted”, or if you will, take the “stress” out of the new engine before you give it a load. And OK, maybe some don't see the point in this.

:greenchainsaw:

 

[SawTroll]

..... And OK, maybe some don't see the point in this.

...

None of my dealers, at least.......

 

[Unclez]

I agree with most of what MAG58 said and thats close to the way I break mine in on the first start-up. I let it idle when it first cranks for 7 or 8 minutes then I go to about 1/4 throttle and hold it there for about 5 minutes, shut the saw off and let it cool completely. Then the first 8 to 10 tanks I take it pretty easy with the saw (rarely ever over 3/4 throttle), adjust carb and normal use after that.

 

[blis]

I agree with most of what MAG58 said and thats close to the way I break mine in on the first start-up. I let it idle when it first cranks for 7 or 8 minutes then I go to about 1/4 throttle and hold it there for about 5 minutes, shut the saw off and let it cool completely. Then the first 8 to 10 tanks I take it pretty easy with the saw (rarely ever over 3/4 throttle), adjust carb and normal use after that.

Uh-oh, thats no good, saws just dont want to work well in 3/4 throttle.... Also, running a new saw in easy is no good in terms of longevity and power...

 

[MAG58]

Uh-oh, thats no good, saws just dont want to work well in 3/4 throttle.... Also, running a new saw in easy is no good in terms of longevity and power...

Yes blis, it's no good whit partly throttle, rew it "lithely" a few times whit quick wide open throttle to pick RPM, but not to high. And I don't think anybody disagreed whit you in how a saw should be run under the "brake in" period. But what I mean whit the "mini brake in" is the first time when a new saw is started, and for a couple of starts. What we are talking about is a small amount of gas from the first tank of fuel.

 

[blis]

Yes blis, it's no good whit partly throttle, rew it "lithely" a few times whit quick wide open throttle to pick RPM, but not to high. And I don't think anybody disagreed whit you in how a saw should be run under the "brake in" period. But what I mean whit the "mini brake in" is the first time when a new saw is started, and for a couple of starts. What we are talking about is a small amount of gas from the first tank of fuel.

I got that and it doesnt cause any damage to saw, heck, it might even be good for saw... But i was replying to unclez "running it easy" part...

 

[MAG58]

I got that and it doesnt cause any damage to saw, heck, it might even be good for saw... But i was replying to unclez "running it easy" part...

:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[SawTroll]

Uh-oh, thats no good, saws just dont want to work well in 3/4 throttle.... Also, running a new saw in easy is no good in terms of longevity and power...

Most saws don't have a midrange jet, so sustained "halv" or "3/4" throttle could actually cause serious damage to the engine.......