New lanyard BJ adjusted
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Tom Dunlap
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OK, I'll take lessons. How do you braze aluminum?
Is your setup a lot smoother than running the lanyard through the d, using the d as the slack tender? Put the two of them on a 1-10 scale.
Tom
Is your setup a lot smoother than running the lanyard through the d, using the d as the slack tender? Put the two of them on a 1-10 scale.
Tom
Yes I have to say it is definately smoother. The bend radius on the pulley has some to do with it. Also for me the other way sometimes the slack would come through the D and form a loop.
On a scale of 1 to 10 the D is maybe a 3 and this a 9 only cause nothing is perfect.
What I did was to get the pulley on the D so it wasnt touching the D I also wetted down all the webbing and saddle so I wasn't takeing a chance of melting or heating anything. You need a hot tourch something with oxygen is good. Get some good aluminum brazeing rods. Just heat the metal of the pulley until it is hot enough to melt the rod. It helps to for that is to take a piecer of steel like a chainsaw file and heat that and run it on the braze to smoothe it out. It takes some practice try it on some bar stock first.
On a scale of 1 to 10 the D is maybe a 3 and this a 9 only cause nothing is perfect.
What I did was to get the pulley on the D so it wasnt touching the D I also wetted down all the webbing and saddle so I wasn't takeing a chance of melting or heating anything. You need a hot tourch something with oxygen is good. Get some good aluminum brazeing rods. Just heat the metal of the pulley until it is hot enough to melt the rod. It helps to for that is to take a piecer of steel like a chainsaw file and heat that and run it on the braze to smoothe it out. It takes some practice try it on some bar stock first.
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Now is the time for someone to come up with a micro pulley with a gated hole!!!
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Mike do you have more info or a link to this?
http://store.bentgate.com/twispulbydmm.html
This a page that has what I think mike is talking about, its pretty neat, I'd use it on a long prussic to place on the crane cable for my climbing line.
This a page that has what I think mike is talking about, its pretty neat, I'd use it on a long prussic to place on the crane cable for my climbing line.
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How does the gate open so that it would attach to a d-ring?
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
That's pretty cool, Mike. 
NickfromWI
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BigJohn, I got almost the exact same thing on my saddle. I made it this summer. It is with the purple swivel pulleys that CMI makes. But it's not sealed shut. I could remove it. I'll try to get a photo on here. Maybe on monday! I love removing unnecessary pieces of gear!
love
nick
love
nick
Tom Dunlap
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http://store.bentgate.com/resiqubydmm.html
I was just at the Bent Gate store last week. They have a nice stock of goods.
Tom
I was just at the Bent Gate store last week. They have a nice stock of goods.
Tom
I did use that pulley. I wanted it to sit on the D the other way. I would tig it if I had one. Good thinking there Mike. It is easier than the route I went for those who don't want to cut and braze. But like I said I prefer the pulley to sit 90 degrees the other way.
I'd thought my setup (<a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?s=&postid=198269" target="_blank">sketched here</a>) was both less bulky and lighter, but at <a href="http://www.cmi-gear.com/catalog/pulleys/pullspecs.asp?partnum=rp140" target="_blank">0.2 grams</a>(!) I guess you got me on the weight, John.
Glen
Glen
You'll note the imperfectness of the sketch, no doubt, Erik...
The hitch is not represented properly either, but it wasn't the main point. Some discussion, if anyone's interested, took place in the <a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?threadid=16704" target="_blank">What's on yur saddle?</a> thread.
But John's setup is interesting. I wonder how it would work with the little pulley (<img src="http://www.cmi-gear.com/images/products/thumbs/pull-rp110.jpg" title="bypass" alt="pulley">) with bypass sides, each notched symmetrically to swing around the dee, with a little hole to accept a pin of some sort (miniature cable tie, maybe) to lock them together. That way there'd be no chance whatsoever of damaging critical harness bits. And at <a href="http://www.cmi-gear.com/catalog/pulleys/pullspecs.asp?partnum=rp110" target="_blank">0.15 grams</a> it's even lighter! :<tt></tt>)
Glen
The hitch is not represented properly either, but it wasn't the main point. Some discussion, if anyone's interested, took place in the <a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?threadid=16704" target="_blank">What's on yur saddle?</a> thread.
But John's setup is interesting. I wonder how it would work with the little pulley (<img src="http://www.cmi-gear.com/images/products/thumbs/pull-rp110.jpg" title="bypass" alt="pulley">) with bypass sides, each notched symmetrically to swing around the dee, with a little hole to accept a pin of some sort (miniature cable tie, maybe) to lock them together. That way there'd be no chance whatsoever of damaging critical harness bits. And at <a href="http://www.cmi-gear.com/catalog/pulleys/pullspecs.asp?partnum=rp110" target="_blank">0.15 grams</a> it's even lighter! :<tt></tt>)
Glen
Tom Dunlap
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Instead of whacking and welding cut and screw.
I found a hardware store that had a HUGE selection of Maillon Rapide screwlinks. I bought a square one, cut off the D-ring on my saddle and put on the MR. That's how I attached two Positioners to one side of my saddle. That was many itterations ago.
Now I just have the hitch tied to the d with the rope through the d. Glen's idea is interesting.
I found a hardware store that had a HUGE selection of Maillon Rapide screwlinks. I bought a square one, cut off the D-ring on my saddle and put on the MR. That's how I attached two Positioners to one side of my saddle. That was many itterations ago.
Now I just have the hitch tied to the d with the rope through the d. Glen's idea is interesting.
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Glen, that was good sketch. For me the pulley is a bit smoother I believe do the bend radius and the "wheel". I had a similar setup that showed I was just after something a little different and unique.
As for Tom thats an awsome ide as well. But as I said earlier I don't want to mod that saddle at all. It would be tough to get through equipment inspections. That is if the body holds up over the winter. Gonna try and get another season out of it.
As for Tom thats an awsome ide as well. But as I said earlier I don't want to mod that saddle at all. It would be tough to get through equipment inspections. That is if the body holds up over the winter. Gonna try and get another season out of it.
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Glen is this what you had in mind?
I filed a slot on each cheek plate opposite of each other and pop riveted the cheeks together at the top. The slots are slightly radiused so the rope won't catch.
I will know tomorrow how well it works.
I filed a slot on each cheek plate opposite of each other and pop riveted the cheeks together at the top. The slots are slightly radiused so the rope won't catch.
I will know tomorrow how well it works.
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