New P&C Break in Period

[BarkBuster20]

Forgotten????

You don't read too well either.

it seems to me that you are taking a lot out of context. it also seems like your doing it on purpose but maybe im wrong. you yourself said that you run saw wot for 1-2 mins straight all the time to get bar oil flowing. you my friend are playing devils advocate and its getting boring. split hairs with someone else if you dont get what is being said about the first three tanks then i may as well open up another thread about long bars versus short bars and hell why not make it a duel thread "short bars versus long bars, and half wrap versus full wrap" i can guess what side youd be on. but im donee with this. iv stated what iv needed to and you can have fun working on your fiction writing.

 

[outdoortype]

I read the same thing about no "Hi revs without load for the first three tanks" in an owners manual for the MS-310-So I know where he's coming from. But it's best for the mechanic/dealer to run WOT to verify the carburetor settings. I don't believe that just using the "One turn out" on each screw is sufficient. Also, if I were a dealer I wouldn't sell the customer a saw without checking it first. That way you know it's right.

 

[Fish]

For someone to say that he doesn't "run" the saw for 3 tank fulls means
"what"????

Does cutting a log involve putting a load on the saw??

What moron would rev a saw at full rpms with no load for any length of time???

This was my question, another was, how do you cut a 12 inch log on the first 3 tankfulls??

If you say, well you don't, well then what do you do with the saw in the first 3 tankfulls?

12 inch is OK?

14 inch is out of line?

Or should one skip around for 3 tankfulls, blipping the trigger, sling a little oil here and there, maybe cut a twig, then on the fourth tank, start to use it????

I know that I am getting silly, but it is because the whole premise is quite silly.

 

[Fish]

it seems to me that you are taking a lot out of context. it also seems like your doing it on purpose but maybe im wrong. you yourself said that you run saw wot for 1-2 mins straight all the time to get bar oil flowing. you my friend are playing devils advocate and its getting boring. split hairs with someone else if you dont get what is being said about the first three tanks then i may as well open up another thread about long bars versus short bars and hell why not make it a duel thread "short bars versus long bars, and half wrap versus full wrap" i can guess what side youd be on. but im donee with this. iv stated what iv needed to and you can have fun working on your fiction writing.

No, I just was outlining how %90 of the saws are delivered at the average
Stihl dealer, said nothing about whether it was/is good or bad.

 

[outdoortype]

I don't remember anyone mentioning log diameter Fish. I think the big deal with High Revs is the WOT no Load for the first three tanks. Their comfortable with their own trained mechanics doing it briefly. They just don't want joe schmoe running around doing it every other day for the first three tanks.

 

[Fish]

Well, you all are correct, not worth talking about......

You can do whatever you want with the saw on those first 3 tankfulls.......

Birthday cakes, carving pumpkins, insulation., etc.....

But that fourth tank, look out, cut something wood, eh????

 

[BarkBuster20]

No, I just was outlining how %90 of the saws are delivered at the average
Stihl dealer, said nothing about whether it was/is good or bad.

this is my last post on this thread. glad you know so much fish. sad that stihl is retarded and dont know how there saws should be broke in. want me to write you a letter of recomendation to stihl? maybe you can re-write the break in instructions. start off with WOT out of wood for 120 seconds, then run it balls out. and actually you said yourself how you will run it for 1-2 min wot so i guess i assumed you were implying its good, or else your ####ing with other peoples saws before they get them. and i said its not to bad to allow a 3 second wot out of wood for tuning. and no one said not to cut wood. nothing was said about wood except on your part. wot out of wood is what was being discussed.

 

[Boogieman142]

the dealer told you that... and we all know how truthfull ALL dealers can be... why would the manuals they send with new saws contridict that statement? for what its worth....

Well, this particular dealer I would trust them for their word. Its also the same dealer that fixed my 361 when it melted a piston after the warranty expired and i modded the muffler and pulled limiter caps, and charged me nothing.

 

[Fish]

I don't remember anyone mentioning log diameter Fish. I think the big deal with High Revs is the WOT no Load for the first three tanks. Their comfortable with their own trained mechanics doing it briefly. They just don't want joe schmoe running around doing it every other day for the first three tanks.

Break in period would insinuate "babying" for a set time.
Revving a saw at the full rpms is easier on the engine than burying it in a log.
The Stihl saws are warmed up and ran at full rpms to correctly set the
high speed mixture screw, as well as test the oiler, etc.. when the saw is
new.

No matter, I will let it drop now....

 

[Fish]

I threw some folks off when I told what the respectable Stihl dealers do,
sorry..........
Since all of the respectable stihl techs have left the site, I got a tad
"uppitty"......

My apologies.....

 

[BarkBuster20]

I threw some folks off when I told what the respectable Stihl dealers do,
sorry..........
Since all of the respectable stihl techs have left the site, I got a tad
"uppitty"......

My apologies.....

my apologys fish, i was a bit cranky and maybe i took you out of context. i was in no way trying to belittle you. been a bit crankier than normal since i broke my kneecap.

 

[Bowtie]

Since all of the respectable stihl techs have left the site, I got a tad
"uppitty"......

My apologies.....

Ok, I see how you roll.

 

[Evan]

i remember when i worked at the bike shop, i uncrated a yamaha r1 crotch rocket, after aseembly i fueld it took it down the highway at 120mph in 3rd or 4th gear. that thing was screaming. it was sold and never had problems. and it was turning some major rss under my watch with no break in.

all motocross bikes where also broke in this manner behind the bike shop. specialy top end rebuilds. i was good at because im 125 2 stroke guy. 3rd gear pinned all the time was the moto.

 

[blsnelling]

Tell me this one Fish, I've always wondered why the inconsistency. The manual says no WOT no-load running until broken in, yet that's exactly what is done to nearly every saw that is sold. I can only assume that it's an evil necessary to ensure the saw is properly tuned and should not be done any more than needed before broken in. IMHO, the fact that a dealer does so before letting the saw go out the door does not prove that it should be avoided as much as possible there after.

With that said, I would argue that excessive heat is the real enemy on a brand new P&C. Piston breakin is more critical than ring breakin in a new 2-stroke engine. While not required, it is adviseable to avoid max heat generation during the first runnings of a new engine. Allowing several complete heat cycles is a good thing for the piston, allowing complete cooling of the piston between runs. Gradually buildup to max power output capability of the engine with each heat cycle.

I don't know anyone that follows a strict breakin regemin like this on a chainsaw. I do allow a couple heat cycles for cutting with a new topend though. After that I just advise against maximum heat, such as stumping, for a few tanks of fuel. There are "best practices", and then what is practical.

 

[Evan]

it is done because the customer is assumed to be unable to tune there theyre own saw.

 

[blsnelling]

i remember when i worked at the bike shop, i uncrated a yamaha r1 crotch rocket, after aseembly i fueld it took it down the highway at 120mph in 3rd or 4th gear. that thing was screaming. it was sold and never had problems. and it was turning some major rss under my watch with no break in.

all motocross bikes where also broke in this manner behind the bike shop. specialy top end rebuilds. i was good at because im 125 2 stroke guy. 3rd gear pinned all the time was the moto.

That's the opposite of what Duncan Racing International recommended for new topend rebuilds coming out of their shop. I followed their procedure to the letter on my Banshee engine that they ported. A fan was mounted in front of the radiator. The engine was allowed to idle for 15 minutes. It was then allowed to cool. That was followed by another idle cycle and cooling. It was then ridden at 50% power output and allowed to cool. Each heat cycle after that the power out put was to be increased by 10%, finally riding the bike at full power output for the final breakin run. It was a grueling process but served me well. All of this was done for piston breakin, not the rings. They didn't recommend this process for just new rings. Keep in mind this was a water cooled engine. Also, the cylinder was not NiSi lined.

 

[blsnelling]

it is done because the customer is assumed to be unable to tune there theyre own saw.

Exactly.

 

[Evan]

brad you got me wonderin

i wouldnt be suprised if pistons are heat cycled on the assembly line. i might research it and see what i find

 

[Evan]

wiseco top end?

 

[ol'homey]

We also need to remember that the info in the owner's manual is meant for owners not Stihl techs. The folks that wrote the manual are assuming that a tech like Fish has already done what he needs to do to properly set up your saw including the all important WOT H screw adjustment to ensure it's not running lean. That's why they aren't supposed to let a saw go out the door without being run by a tech. If it goes out the door without being run and it happens to be set lean, the owner can baby it all he wants, but he'll be bringing it back with a scored piston soon after he puts it in some wood and it gets hot.
Here's a related story that might be relevant here: Friend bought a boat with a freshly rebuilt Mercruiser 5.7L EFI (350 Chevy) engine. Oh how he babied that thing, putting around 20-25 mph barely on plane engine lugging all the time. When I drove it I put the hammer down, what a dog out of the hole and it wouldn't even do 4k on the tach and the WOT rating on the engine says 46-4800 rpm. Whoa says my friend that's too fast! I say dude how are you ever gonna pull a skier out of the water if you're too afraid to put the hammer down. Also there's something wrong with your boat, it's a real dog out of the hole and it's not making anywhere near the rated WOT rpm's. Friend says it's not supposed to run that fast. A few weeks later the number 3 piston melted. Mercruiser dealer said it was caused by detonation due the engine being lugged at low rpm with a prop with too high pitch. It turned out that my friend ruined his engine by babying it. If it was my boat I would have found a prop that would allow that engine to turn as close to 4800 WOT as possible and then I would have run the crap out of it all day long.