NEW saw, chain sags 3/8 - 1/2 inch !!

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dumptruck

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I bought a new 18" McCulloch today (MS 1846), and after seating the chain and adjusting tension screw ALL the way in, it STILL sags over 3/8 " below the bar (meaning I can fit a finger between them with no problem). Any ideas? I bought the saw at Menard's, and it was the display model, with the guide bar and chain already installed. I removed the chain brake cover to ensure that the chain was properly seated into the sprocket, and checked everyting else I could think of. Any ideas?

Thanks!
 
Take it back and get a real saw....Macs have been junk for many years....

I didnt know the new company was doing much...I think some Italian outfit took oiver the Mac name...maybe they will be better, who knows...

Or, have the shop take one or two links out of the chain.
 
this may be a dumb suggestion and may have no bearing what-so-ever on the situation, but before you seat the nuts on the outside are you lifting the end of the bar?
 
Chain's too long...like you didn't already know that...if the saw seems to have plenty of adjustment, someone probably put the wrong length chain on. Take it back tell them to get the right length. If they give you any problems, piss on 'em, and go buy a stihl.
 
Like Rb said, get a real saw. They are made in taiwan junk.

I dont mean to offend you or be rude. But if you have the means, get a Husy 350, or a 025 Stihl.

I used to have a cheapo mac & poulan...... for a little more, you can have 5 times the saw, that will outlive it 10 to 1 & you will be very happy.

If your just using it to trim the trees once a year, well you might have a point in buying the Mac. Otherwise, treat yourself.

Above all whatever you get, be carefull with it.

As far as your problem goes, I think pyro guy has a good point. Also, are you sure the adjuster is in the slot in the bar??

Other than that, I guess it is very possible that they put the wrong chain on it. Now that I think of it, I bet that is the problem esp. since it was a display model.

Best of luck
 
I've lifted up the end, pulled OUT on the bar as far as I can, in short- I THINK I've tried it all. I can't imagine it being the wrong size, unless there is a 21" saw being made that I am unaware of.
I may just return it and get a Stihl after all.
 
Adjuster IS in slot, and the bag that the chain was in is opened (and empty) in the case. I just don't know....
I appreciate all the help, been screwing with it for about 3 hours just trying to tighten up the chain!
 
Best thing would be to know what the DL count for an 18" mac is. Is it running 3/8" Lo Pro chain, or real 3/8"? There is a drive link tang on those Macs that if it is not just perfectly in the bar, will not allow for proper chain adjustment. You may think you have it and still be off. But if you use the saw very much, spend the extra clams and get a Stihl MS250 with a 16 or 18" bar and .325 chain. I use the 26RS chisel chain, but it will probably come with 26RM2 low kickback chain unless you ask for the good stuff. Only if you're comfortable with operating a chainsaw though and have sopme experience, otherwise, the low kick chain might be good. It will be 3times the saw of the Mac easily.
 
I also bought a Mc at Menards, a AV1839 18". I only made up to the first 1/2 tank of gas / bar oil. After numerous chain adjustments, as it was a new chain, I gave up as it simply would not cut any more wood - it simply bogged out. Its now in the shop under its warranty, which will not cost me anything; however, I may be stuck with a bum saw.

If you have any problems take it back as soon as possible because Menards only has a 30 day return on items with gas engines (should be printed on bottom of receipt). Unfortunately I was couple days past this (ironically it sat unopened in my garage all that time until the faithful day of nonperformance).

I am curious if your saw came with one of those "low kick-back chains" - it has two depth spacers and then one cutter link AS opposed to the normal chains we use on our older Mc's which have one depth link and then one cutter link. Plan to replace it with a Oregon chain one as soon as it comes back.

I also noticed that Menard's Oregon chain and bar display does not have some current Mc models listed, such as mine; however, you can find what chain and bar you need by checking Oregon's site:

http://www.oregonchain.com/sawch.htm

"Italian outfit took oiver the Mac name"

I think it was a firm from Taiwan that bought the name after their bankruptcy. A local repair guy, who sells Husks, had a ???? fit when I brought in my Mc 3516 into the shop - telling me how it was one of those saws that ruined Mc and how the checks from those "boys in Taiwan" were always bouncing for warranty work. LOL - I guess he just wanted to sell me Husky because the 3516 is over 10 years old and was made prior to their bankruptcy.
 
The old mac saws were good, the ones just prior to bankruptcy were crappy. My 3200 worked pretty hard but only for <1year before I began to have serious problems with it. It's out in the garage, junk now if anyone needs parts send me an email....
 
Hmmmm, looks like a normal chain to me, McCullough- sorry to hear about your problems too!

By the way, any suggestions on a new Stihl saw if I go that route?

1. Very limited use, but need at least the 18"
2. Hopefully not much over $200 (is that possible w/ Stihl?)
 
At least if your mac fails you will have a decent Chock Block. O Wait arent those macs
98% plastic Crankcase and all. :)
 
dumptruck said:
I bought a new 18" McCulloch today (MS 1846), and after seating the chain and adjusting tension screw ALL the way in, it STILL sags over 3/8 " below the bar (meaning I can fit a finger between them with no problem). Any ideas? I bought the saw at Menard's, and it was the display model, with the guide bar and chain already installed. I removed the chain brake cover to ensure that the chain was properly seated into the sprocket, and checked everyting else I could think of. Any ideas?

Thanks!

You say you have it adjusted all the way "in". I assume you meant "out". To tighten the chain, turn the screw clockwise. This is probably not the problem but...

Harry K
 
Problem Solved!!!!

turnkey4099 said:
You say you have it adjusted all the way "in". I assume you meant "out". To tighten the chain, turn the screw clockwise. This is probably not the problem but...

Harry K


Oops, yes I meant "out"

*************************
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I took my saw back to Menards after 3 hours of screwing with it. It took 4 of us 30 minutes to find the problem.

It was a display model, but they said that they are shipped to them with the bar and chain already installed. We disassembled it a little further than necessary to tighten or install the bar and chain and found an "L" shaped piece of plastic that read exactaly as follows: "PLEASE REMOVE THIS PLASTIC PLATE WHEN ASSEMBLED THE BAR AND CHAIN ON THIS CHAIN SAW" Nice English huh? (assembled rather than assembling) Anyway, the factory was supposed to remove this 1" x 1 1/2" piece before installing the bar. It prevented the tension screw from fully tightening the chain!

Thanks for all your help, I was sooo close to getting a Stihl. Thanks again, and I hope this can help someone else from wasting about half of their day.
 
dumptruck said:
We disassembled it a little further than necessary to tighten or install the bar and chain and found an "L" shaped piece of plastic that read exactaly as follows: "PLEASE REMOVE THIS PLASTIC PLATE WHEN ASSEMBLED THE BAR AND CHAIN ON THIS CHAIN SAW" Nice English huh? (assembled rather than assembling)


That is how Asian's translate English. That's the way they translate instruction and warning labels on large machines like injection moulding, turning and milling machines too.
 
It was a display model, but they said that they are shipped to them with the bar and chain already installed. We disassembled it a little further than necessary to tighten or install the bar and chain and found an "L" shaped piece of plastic that read exactaly as follows: "PLEASE REMOVE THIS PLASTIC PLATE WHEN ASSEMBLED THE BAR AND CHAIN ON THIS CHAIN SAW" Nice English huh? (assembled rather than assembling) Anyway, the factory was supposed to remove this 1" x 1 1/2" piece before installing the bar. It prevented the tension screw from fully tightening the chain!

Yes, this is weird. I recall reading something about this plastic piece in the instruction booklet prior to starting the MS1839. I don't have the instruction manual on hand as its at the shop, but I think I recall it said the piece of plastic was placed there for shipping purposes. My saw came in a box and was pre-assembled, but after reading this you have no idea if its still there or not -- after taking apart the saw I found it was not in there.
 
I will say what most members here want to tell you but don't dare do so.

If you have not yet used that PoJ, take it back to where you purchased it and buy a decent saw now, as you will end up having to do it anyways if you keep it and you will be out that additional money also.
 
I have read perhaps 80% of the threads & posts here in the chainsaw forum (I don't have a life, lol), and not once have I read where anyone defended the new Mac saws. And the same for the new Homelites.

Lobo summed it up nicely.
 
Dumptruck,

If it makes you feel any better I have the same series of saw purchased in 1998 $135~@Bi-Mart and have absolutely beat the crap out of this saw. I knew nothing about maintenance. Keeping bar and chain oil seemed optional and cleaning the air filter seemed a waste of time when the saw "ran fine". I am much smarter and wiser now and have a 357xp that gets very well taken care. If nobody has told you the secret to starting that saw is 2-3 pumps on the primer bulb full choke pull until it pops once then medium choke pull one more time and she will take off. Even my beat up eight year old Mac 4900 saw will start in three pulls no matter what. If my Husky 357 has been sitting for any length of time it takes at least 5 or 6 pulls no big deal but the McCulloch has always started easier (it does have a primer bulb)

My point is that this series of saw was the last one designed by the original McCulloch corporation. I have rebuilt the carb (really needed this) and added a new piston ring (ring was not needed but I had a new one and pulled it apart so why not) and that is it for this saw nothing else and it still runs just great. No scoring or wear to the cylinder or piston. The saw just runs great. Don't worry just go enjoy the saw. For $174~ you can't go wrong the AV is as good as my Husky and air filtration is the same design as the Husky. It looks as though Husky (Elux) purchased McCulloch and incorporated the best features into their saws or vice versa depending on who had the design first. Someone will chime in and correct me about Husky being first if this is true. If this saw had been easy to obtain I would have purchased another one instead of the Husky due to the cost/value comparison and having a "parts" saw already. That series of McCullochs IMHO is the best value to dollar that exists. Please keep in mind I own two Huskies one is a pro model another is the Poulan model and I also own the MS2049AV (Mac 4900). I will say I am not a Pro user and if service is a major concern then I would go with Stihl or Husky for the ability to get the saw serviced. I do 95% of all my own service/maintenance and don't often need service.

Kodiakfisher
 
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