New Splitter Finally Arrived

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I have been building a binder of brochures,pictures from here,my own personal notes,etc for my next splitter.It would be easier to just buy a Timberwolf but cannot justify the cost.If I could weld it would already be started.
 
I have been building a binder of brochures,pictures from here,my own personal notes,etc for my next splitter.It would be easier to just buy a Timberwolf but cannot justify the cost.If I could weld it would already be started.

Milkie if you have a tractor that 3 point of theirs is a good choice,the one I believe is 1900.00 and the heavy one is around 3000.00. Both have their own hydraulics and run off your PTO. Almost went that way.
 
3 pt splitters

I have always been against 3 pt splitters because of the running time put on the engine etc.I would much rather blow up an 8HP briggs motor than to have to repair the engine on my tractor because I may have overheated it or something along those lines.
 
I have always been against 3 pt splitters because of the running time put on the engine etc.I would much rather blow up an 8HP briggs motor than to have to repair the engine on my tractor because I may have overheated it or something along those lines.


I tend to agree with this,to tie a tractor up to split wood ,and waste expensive diesel engine hours on a 20-40 hp tractor when you only needed 9 hp seems like a huge waste on many levels.The exceptions being if the attachment does something a splitter cannot,or it is just easier to get the tractor to where the work is than drag a splitter.Then there's the fact that a splitter attachment is easier to maintain,no long term storage needs,stabilizing fuel,or needing gasoline ,esp on a farm most have diesel tanks only on site,and small 2 gal for chain saws and trimmers.If you gotta leave it outside,no worries retract the cylinder,spray some fluid film all over it,and it will work fine in 6 months when you need it.No mice will have burrowed in the fan shroud of the engine,which will overheat it and could damage it an hour out of storage in the fall.Small gas engines can be difficult to pull start in cold weather as well,esp after being towed,they can flood ,and the luids are thick,most diesel tractors built in the last 20 yrs start easily in most any weather down to zero without being plugged in.
When I built my skid steer splitter,I weighed the options of a stand alone splitter against it,and built the dedicated atachment to save time,and be able to handle logs you couldnt get to the splitter without using the skid steer or a tractor anyway.
 
i agree with above two posters.

tractor is too expensive to run a log splitter.

not to mention i need to use it for a log lift and mover.
 
Thanks for your comments LAH. I agree and have almost always been happy that I took that approach with something I intend to use for a lot of years.


Regards,

Maplemeister

You won't have any regrets. I've been runnin mine since '05,gets it done with ease. Have fun and enjoy! I do. :cheers:
 
That is a great splitter, I should know! I have the three foot version, with the log lift, and the 4 way wedge. I added the fenders and the catch plates.
My splitter was $4,000.00

Lot of money but I love it!!!
 
You won't have any regrets. I've been runnin mine since '05,gets it done with ease. Have fun and enjoy! I do. :cheers:

Hi Roy,

Just split my second cord of wood with the new toy this morning in the rain no less. She's running great. Only thing I noticed so far is that the ram when fully extended forward on the splitting stroke is still about 2:" from the
leading edge of the wedge when it completes the splitting stroke. Does your
splitter work the same? Seems like they could have stopped it a little closer to the wedge. It doesn't really matter on straight grain stuff but on the gnarly or stringy stuff like yellow birch you often have to tear the split pieces
apart after they have been split or push the split piece all the way through with another piece. Just curious if yours works the same.

Maplemeister :chainsaw: :)
 
That is a great splitter, I should know! I have the three foot version, with the log lift, and the 4 way wedge. I added the fenders and the catch plates.
My splitter was $4,000.00

Lot of money but I love it!!!

Dave:

So far so good. Didn't go for the log lift yet but can add on later if I find
I need it. Most of what we run into around here seldom goes above 20". Once
in a while I'll hit a big boy but I usually just noodle the blocks into pieces I can handle.

Maplemeister: :chainsaw:
 
I have always been against 3 pt splitters because of the running time put on the engine etc.I would much rather blow up an 8HP briggs motor than to have to repair the engine on my tractor because I may have overheated it or something along those lines.

I used a three point for years,picked it up for 300.00 no trouble at all with it. It supplied ballast when I filled the loader bucket. Only problem was the speed,it was fairly slow. I never ran the engine much above idle and could lower it for bigger logs. With my new splitter I am going to build a permanent table to dump logs on and put the split pieces into my loader,to take to the near by stacking area. I agree on the smaller engine less fuel and less cost to repair. but all I had for years was a mall and the 3 point. Would split the easy stuff with the mall and the hard stuff with the 3 point. Now that I am an old goat but still burn wood,I decided it was time to go easier. So i'll probably sell the 3 point next year. The new splitter works so well may even go back to selling some wood. Use to sell about 30 cords a year when we gave it away for 50 to 60 dollars a cord. Guys around here now are getting close to 200 or better.
 
tractor is too expensive to run a log splitter.

not to mention i need to use it for a log lift and mover.
\
Yes i too would have to agree and when you figure 3 gallons an hour to run a 120 hp tractor at $3+ a gallon it all adds up. We (my bro and i) just bought our first gas powered log spltter friday, and love it we still use the tractor to drag to the staging area and to put the bucket under the splitter to catch the wood.
 
Hi Roy,

Just split my second cord of wood with the new toy this morning in the rain no less. She's running great. Only thing I noticed so far is that the ram when fully extended forward on the splitting stroke is still about 2:" from the
leading edge of the wedge when it completes the splitting stroke. Does your
splitter work the same? Seems like they could have stopped it a little closer to the wedge. It doesn't really matter on straight grain stuff but on the gnarly or stringy stuff like yellow birch you often have to tear the split pieces
apart after they have been split or push the split piece all the way through with another piece. Just curious if yours works the same.

Maplemeister :chainsaw: :)

MM, glad to hear your playin with the new toy. Mine does the same thing and with the 4way off, the space is a little larger. No concern. What I do is just what you said, throw another block in and let her go. Yeah,yellow birch is fun,also red oak, and you get to run the machine longer.LOL Keep on splittin.
Take care, Roy.
 
Hi Roy,

Just split my second cord of wood with the new toy this morning in the rain no less. She's running great. Only thing I noticed so far is that the ram when fully extended forward on the splitting stroke is still about 2:" from the
leading edge of the wedge when it completes the splitting stroke. Does your
splitter work the same? Seems like they could have stopped it a little closer to the wedge. It doesn't really matter on straight grain stuff but on the gnarly or stringy stuff like yellow birch you often have to tear the split pieces
apart after they have been split or push the split piece all the way through with another piece. Just curious if yours works the same.

Maplemeister :chainsaw: :)

weld on a slice of steel pipe to the face of the push block,it will also bite the wood and control pop outs.

just make sure you disconnect the push block from the ram and slide it away a tad.otherwise you'll cook the seal in the ram.
 
weld on a slice of steel pipe to the face of the push block,it will also bite the wood and control pop outs.

just make sure you disconnect the push block from the ram and slide it away a tad.otherwise you'll cook the seal in the ram.

I would not weld anything to the splitter just yet, Its under warrenty and I'm sure you don't want to void it.
 
I thought about extending the pushblock myself but don't want to rush into
anything just yet. And as mentioned, the warranty is definitely an issue at this point in the game. I have E-mailed the manufacturer as to why the machine is built this way but haven't heard from them yet. There may well be a good explanation but my first impression was that the gap could have been a lot smaller than it is. Will post when I hear from them.

Maplemeister: :chainsaw:
 
OK.....so I'm now going to ask a very silly question:

Why not go with an Electric Motor instead of a gas engine? Especially if all my wood splitting is done behind my shop. How big of a 220V motor would I need to spin a 16+ GPM pump for a splitter?
 
You could add a little extra length to the push block without welding. A nice little block of steel held by some device should get you by till you hear from the factory. Just a thought.


LAH:
I haven't looked at it closely enough yet to know for sure but that is likely
a possibility as well. It really isn't that much of an issue but one of those little things that bug you when your seeking the perfect setup I guess. If I had my helper (wifey) working with me as I split it wouldn't even matter as I would just continue to put a new block in the splitter and let the new block push the old block all the way past the wedge face. With the extra set of hands to toss the splits as they come off on the table, the flow stays nice and smooth and nothing falls on the ground. Can't really improve a lot on that short of a processor setup and the helpers hands never need to get between the wedge and the ram.

Maplemeister: :chainsaw:
 
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