New Stihl climbing saw
- Thread starter BigJohn
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John, do you have any specs. on this saw?
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Youll have to ask Chisholm, he's the posteboy, so has probably worked with it.
The one I have is is in the test phase. It's a bit smaller and lighter. The on and off switch is now recessed and dose include the choke postion but does have a high idle posisition in its place. The choke is now back by the air cleaner. It also has a primer button. The gas and oil fill are both where oil fill usually is. Both the oil and gas tanks are see through. It has the light weight bar and I believe its a micro chain. I've use it two days now and I really like it. Its not the saw of choice for larger removals. I really like it for pruning. I usally hate haveing a saw with me but I didn't even notice it with me. Its as convient as a handsaw. It doesn't have the power of a 020 or 0200 but I feel for the size it has plenty. In my opinion it has a great feel of balance and precision. Definately the quality you would expect from Stihl. Oh yeah there not paying me to say that. From what I hear Mark doesn't one?
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
You DO have to get used to the feel of the 200, but I wouldn't use anything else... so far.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Now that they want $500 for them, I'm not sure I'll agree with you anymore on that. I nearly went with the 335 when I paid $425 for my current 020.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
I paid $500 for mine 2 years ago.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Heck, my 385 cost me only $670.
A 346 much costs less then the MS200.
With the way my Silky cuts, I figure that when my 020 poops out, I won't be buying a replacement.
The ms-200 is being priced out of the market IM(notso)HO.
A 346 much costs less then the MS200.
With the way my Silky cuts, I figure that when my 020 poops out, I won't be buying a replacement.
The ms-200 is being priced out of the market IM(notso)HO.
tshanefreeman
ArboristSite Operative
RockyJ...
I was wondering why you dislike the Stihl 019T (190T)? Yes it isn't the biggest saw, it does weigh slightly more than the 020 (200T), and it doesn't kick out as much H.P., but what's wrong with it?
I ask because I added a 019T (190T) to my fleet about 2 years ago and I actually like it alot. They are more cost effective than many of the other pro-saws and as long as you keep a good edge on your chain, they will cut as well as a 020T (200T) and 334/338 (IMHO).
I know that there are those that swear by their 020 (200T) and 334/338's, but please make additional comments on the 019 (190T), for I think that you get a great saw for your dollar! I would like to hear not only yours but other users opinions as well.
I was wondering why you dislike the Stihl 019T (190T)? Yes it isn't the biggest saw, it does weigh slightly more than the 020 (200T), and it doesn't kick out as much H.P., but what's wrong with it?
I ask because I added a 019T (190T) to my fleet about 2 years ago and I actually like it alot. They are more cost effective than many of the other pro-saws and as long as you keep a good edge on your chain, they will cut as well as a 020T (200T) and 334/338 (IMHO).
I know that there are those that swear by their 020 (200T) and 334/338's, but please make additional comments on the 019 (190T), for I think that you get a great saw for your dollar! I would like to hear not only yours but other users opinions as well.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Shane, compared to Brian's Echo the 19t is not worth the extra money.
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I have to agree with Rocky. If I had to do it again I wouldn't buy an 020T. The ergonomics don't bother me in the least. I just don't feel that all that power is necessary with a 12" or 14" bar. I am very happy with my Solo 633. I want the power on a saw like my PP7900 or my PP346. At nearly twice the price of an Echo 340 or the Solo 633, the 020T isn't worth it IMO!
Kneejerk Bombas
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I agree with Rocky and Rich, the ergonomics of the 020t are absolutely the best of any saw, and the Solo totally is the worst saw on the market.
I must also agree with Rich that the 7900 is very bad and not as storng as the 346 (Husky or Echo).
I must also agree with Rich that the 7900 is very bad and not as storng as the 346 (Husky or Echo).
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
I guess I will allways want the 200 because I'm hooked on 16" bars. I've never really run a 14" bar on anything. I'm sure I would appreciate the additional torque (?), but I sure would hate losing the reach, or depth, more.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Yeah, I remember you saying that earlier.
When I look at a 14" bar, it sure looks shorter to me, though.
When I look at a 14" bar, it sure looks shorter to me, though.
Frans
ArboristSite Operative
Rocky imagine you are taking down a big pine. The drop zone is clear, and you want to free fall branches...
What I do quite often in this situation is make the deepest cut I can on the bottom of a branch near the base, and then with my 020 I quickly cut the top of the branch on the opposite side of my first cut. When I make the second cut I do it quickly and with force I bury the bar into the cut without dogging it, and keeping up my chain speed.
the branch will pop off the tree. As it falls down to the ground it will be horizontal to the ground and land flat without bouncing off the tip and boomeranging into the house/garage/out of the drop zone area.
Rocky my question:
How do you do this with your "precision saw"? What, a Echo?
The 020 has always been my standby for the most powerful wreaking saw and I dont understand how you can say the saw has no place as a precise piece of equipment.
Frans
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Stumper
One Man Band
Tshane, I am one of the few around here who likes the O19T. While I often agree with Brian I have to disagree with his statement equating 019 ergonomics with the 020. I found them to be very different (The tophandle on the19T slopes down to the rear easing the the wrist crunching tendency that the 020 has in spades. The rear-swept front handle permits a different grip than any other saw I know of.) Saw preferences are very personal things but I chose the 019T becuse I liked it best-- the only disadvantage I found compared to the 020T is the extra weight. I also like the Echo 340 and will probably buy that next. I have never felt that the 019T or the Solo 634 which I sometimes use aloft are underpowered-keep 'em sharp!
Koa Man
Kahuna giganticus
Poulan's and Echo's 16 inch bars are only 56 links. 1 link more than Stihl's. If Stihl's 16 inch bar is only 14.5 inch, then Echo's must be only 14.75 inch.
The ergonomics of the 020T don't bother me in the least, in fact I really like the way it feels. The two top handle Echos I bought lasted me less than 6 months before they were shot. The 020Ts last me at least 2 years. At that rate, using Echos would cost me $1000-1250 and Stihl $460 every 2 years. The 020Ts also has a significant power/speed advantage. I use 16 inch bars and don't call for a bigger saw until the wood gets over 15 inch diameter. But like anything else, everyone should use what they like and feel comfortable with. They are the ones using it and no one should belittle another person's choice.
brute force?
I don't understand where brute force equates with a lack of finesse. A sharp chain on most saws is what makes the difference in the wood. What would I know, my saws are power ported, even the trim saws are modded. The saw has to feel right in your hands or it is not the right saw for you to use. You don't want to fight the saw, you work with the saw and control of the saw and comfort of use are a part of the game before you get to brute force issues. If your saw is uncomfortable do to the "I want brute force" you're headed for white fingers and tennis elbow some years down the road. If you have to force the saw through wood your chain isn't sharp or you're pinched in the wood. The "brute force" is not the issue, the ease of the flip of the wrist to finesse the cut is. The more powerful saws take less effort to make the faster cuts provided they have a sharp chain. If you are using brute force instead of finesse you're doing it wrong and your joints are going to let you know about it. Brute force is the racing saws arena where you push the saws for all they're worth and even that takes finesse to get it right (win).
I don't understand where brute force equates with a lack of finesse. A sharp chain on most saws is what makes the difference in the wood. What would I know, my saws are power ported, even the trim saws are modded. The saw has to feel right in your hands or it is not the right saw for you to use. You don't want to fight the saw, you work with the saw and control of the saw and comfort of use are a part of the game before you get to brute force issues. If your saw is uncomfortable do to the "I want brute force" you're headed for white fingers and tennis elbow some years down the road. If you have to force the saw through wood your chain isn't sharp or you're pinched in the wood. The "brute force" is not the issue, the ease of the flip of the wrist to finesse the cut is. The more powerful saws take less effort to make the faster cuts provided they have a sharp chain. If you are using brute force instead of finesse you're doing it wrong and your joints are going to let you know about it. Brute force is the racing saws arena where you push the saws for all they're worth and even that takes finesse to get it right (win).
SilverBlue
Addicted to ArboristSite
I now have 6 HP 200T’s in inventory and it remains the tree saw of choice, no complaints here.Let’s see some pics of this new one.
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
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JP,
Do you remember what the" original square bodied 020's " used to cost. Those saws cost $600, pricey no doubt, compared to any other top handled saw they couldn't be beat by any other saw manufacturer during this saws time period.
I consider the present day MS 200 a bargain for the price. It has a little bigger engine, lighter than the original, and much easier handling and egronomics. The only kick I have against Sthil's 020 line since the original ones is they don't last as long. I have gotten at least 2x the life if not more from the original 020's compared to any thing that has come after it.
Does any one remember the article in Arbor Age a few years back where all the top- handled saws were tested in a consumer report type article. Sthil's 020 was rated no.1. If the same type of testing were held today I bet the results would still be the same.
MB,
Your not seeing things, a 16" in. bar is longer than the 14 ". Brian is measuring from the tip of the bumper spikes to the tip of the bar which is 14 1/2 in. But bars are measured from the stud to the tip. Husky is also misleading the public, their 16" in bar is only 14" if this were the case.
Brian,
You might want measure your 14" Echo bar, to make sure your getting a full 14 in. when you might only be getting 12 in. I don't know what kind of chain your using but 3 links of Stihls 3/8 ths low profile Picco = 1.5 in. not one half in.
Larry
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