New Stove thread.

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chainsawaddict

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Sure, I could use the search function and research opinions, but that isnt any good for discussion.:cheers: I am in my infancy when it comes to using solely wood heat, this is my second winter.

I went to bed at 9pm with a loaded stove, woke up at 1 and 5 am to reload. We have been in a tremendous cold cold streak. Negative temps everynight, frozen pipes....you all know. I am tired of waking up twice during the night to reload. Even with good oak. I put in my two A+ oak pieces last night @1:cry: Right now the stove I have is a Blaze King steel stove.

I can probably spend between $1000 and $1500, but would gladly spend less if I could. My house is basement+main+finished attic=2000 square feet, but was built in 1920 and isnt as tight as Id like it to be. Upstairs has uninsulated lathe and plaster that is getting "injection insulation" soon.

Thanks for some help fellas:cheers:

Oh and dont be afraid to tell me if im just being a sally!
 
Sounds rather miserable to me. You sure your stove is big enough to heat your house? Doesn't sound like the right sized stove if you are loading it that much....
 
Well....... I wont call you names. I will say I load my woodburner at around 11 pm and go to bed sometime during the night the fire burns out and oil furnace runs. I would rather sleep all night and spend a few bucks on oil than get up,put slippers on ,step on kids legos,trip over the cat,go downstairs,load stove,come back up,go pee,get a drink and crawl back in bed just to keep furnace from running. My setup isnt very effiecent either. Im sure a dedicated wood furnace or OWB would make it through the night. Plus I dont have to worry about being gone all day and no fire and cold house when I get home. Now maybe youll call me Sally,but thats my take on heating my house.:clap:
 
I don’t think you will get a way from getting up at night to feed a wood stove. There is a big difference between burn time and surface temp staying at 500ish. Have a few beers before bed and feed the stove when you get up to pee. 5:00am? Why are you sleeping in so late? Good luck
 
When temps at night are anywhere below 15 degrees, I get up at least once to feed the stove. I'm using a Fireplace Extroidnair flush insert. I know it is a bit undersized for my house, but it was what looked good and fit in the living room. If my walls and windows were more insulating, I don't think I would have a problem keeping it warm with less effort, but I'm not about to spend 5-10k on new windows and blown in wall insulation for a house I plan to leave in the next 5 years or less.
 
All you need to do is have several beverages of your choice one hour before going to bed and when you just have to go pee just toss another log on the fire on the way through. This was a problem of mine a few years ago but the older you get it will just be a fact of life.
 
What model is your Blaze King? Is it an EPA stove? From what I have read the Blaze King is about the best there is.
 
I use a Lopi Endeavor (as seen in my avatar) STUFF it with Doug Fir or Maple at around 11:00 and choke it down. There are enough coals to get it going again when I leave for work at 6:30. I've got an older ('82) but well insulated 2,000 square foot ranch and it will still be in the low 70ies when I get up.

That stove was like $2000.00 a few years ago but that included all the stove pipe and everything to install it. I think the stove was about $1400.00.
 
I will stop joking now. This is my first winter with a good stove. I have a Jotul Oslo. I bought it in the spring for $1700 nib. I have a basic raised ranch. The stove is located in the family room down stairs. The “basement” is finished and well insulated with new windows and doors. There is about 1200 sq’ per floor. My OLD stove could not keep up and the furnace would kick on. These new EPA stoves are wonderful. I turned my furnace on in the beginning of the season to make sure it works and has been set at 55F sense. I feed the stove when I get up, when I come home for lunch, when I get home from work, dinner, bed, and once at night. This fire has been burning for close to two months now. Down stairs is around 78F and up stairs around 72F. If the house cooled off it would take a while to bring it back up with just the wood stove. Keep in mind these new stoves burn hot and don’t over size. Good luck.
 
I heat my 4000 sq ft house with a Blaze King. I fill it at 10:30 pm and shut the air way down and there is always enough coals left at 6:30 am to restart the fire. It was -13 this morning and still 70 in the house. It is a model 145. My house was built in '96 with 2x6 walls and I put 12" of batt insulation in the attic. I can't remember the lp gas furnace ever coming on while we were home. It has saved me a lot of money unless you factor in the price of a pickup and 3 saws and a splitter and a 4x4 tractor with a skidding winch, but a guy needs to have a few toys.
 
Im not sure what type of Blaze King it is, but it I would guess its over 50,000 BTUs.

My complaint is that it doesnt seem to hold heat. It is cool even when there are coals inside, an hour after the fire goes out the thing isnt even warm to the touch.
 
I love it - it's obvious that we are all kindred souls here! There is no question that the older you get the more tolerance you get for the way things are.

Back in the late 60's I lived with my family in an L shaped ranch house on a river with 68 acres of hardwood around it.

To heat the house I built a wood burning furnace from a steel dumpster which was 3' X 4' X ' 5' . I poured a floor & partial sides into the dumpster with refractory material, welded the top closed and mounted a Glenwood range door, with temperature guage, in the end with an asbestos lined channel to make it air tight. There was no grate in the fire box.

I had studied the European stoves and admired the Jotul front flue principle so - with the help of some lengths of 4" X 4" 1/2" thick channel (bent to a U shape) scavenged from a nearby firm - new material which they had formerly used to build backhoe arms, I welded up a 5' length of 4" " 8" flue and suspended it by 2" angle iron from the top of the dumpster with 1' sticking out the rear and the front ending about 1' from the front - above the door.

I fabricated the primary air inlet system from 2" driveshaft tubing - running down the inside of the front and across the bottom with a line of 1/2" holes
in the bottom section for outlets. The inlets protruded from the front near the top with sliding caps for control of air intake. There was no damper in the flue and I later added a heat exchanged from an old wood burning furnace I found in the cellar of an abandoned farm house.

I backed the furnace up to the concrete block fireplace base at one end of the house, still on its wheels well off the floor and connected into the flue from the oil hot air furnace which was on the other side of it. I then walled the furnace in with concrete block walls about a foot from the sides of the dumpster and connected its upper section into the existing hot air ductwork. I had intended to fill the gap between the sides of the furnace and the block walls with softball size river stones - to hold the heat - but never got around to it

When I first started this monster up I was surprised to see that I had inadvertently improved on the Jotul design. By suspending the flue below the top of the firebox, the flame route was up the back of the firebox, forward between the flue and the top of the box and down into the top of the flue and out the back - in effect a triple pass before exiting the rear into the heat exchanger.

The bottom line here is that I heated this house for over 10 years with this furnace with the only alternative a Glenwood C Kitchen Range. There was no blower in the ducts - strictly circulation by convection with benefit of the humidifier used by the oil furnace - which I had disabled.

I was in the garage business at the time and gone for 12 hrs a day - but only needed to load this furnace twice daily with 4" logs - some up to 12" in diameter that I slid in whole onto deep base of coals. It took over 10 cords the get through the winter - but we were always warm.

The entire winters wood supply ended up being less than one garbage can of ash in the spring - like talcum powder. I lost that house in a divorce over 25 years ago and do no have any photos of the furnace - but suspect that it must still be there - though I had to resurrect the oil burner before I left. I have always thought that I would stop in and take a photo of that furnace.

The worse part of this whole deal was the loss of a beautiful, one of a kind, fence that took me a whole summer to build. I had surrounded the house and a horse coral with over 100 running feet of split rail (3) fence - 10' lengths of quartered white ash between dual split Locust posts with oak pins - which ended up being used as fuel by a lowlife who rented the house from my ex-wife.

Now I heat my present home with a Jotul 550 insert - which works very well - but needs to be tended every 4 hours to run efficiently. I use mostly 12" chunks red & white oak inserted endwise into the fire box.

As someone previously pointed out - I have to get up to Pee anyway so - so it doesn't bother me.

That's life as we age!

Ed
 
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does your setup have a stove pipe dampener (flapper thingy in the stack) also ??
you may need to work on your dampening skills a little ??

yes, but Im a little afraid to use it since my stove is not airtight, there is a crack in the corner of the door frame. I was afraid of setting off the CO detector...
 
aaahhhh, things are making more sence now...
use the stack dampener, your losing alot of heat by not using it...
get the door welded, or ya could clean the area and seal it with silicone

is there significant risk using it with the crack?

I have talked to others who dont use the stack dampner, how much heat is really lost?
 
is there significant risk using it with the crack?

I have talked to others who dont use the stack dampner, how much heat is really lost?

not really, unless it's a HUGE crack, but it will effect your draft settings..
as far as how much heat lost is hard to say every stove/situation is different....
u need to learn how to "drive" your stove, so to speak...
by not using that stack dampener your only using half of your controll over the burn cycle...... try it, it definately won't hurt anything...
at night turn it shut, then back it open about 1/10th of a turn, close your stove dampener (the one on the stove) then open that back up a little.... that'll be a good starting point for ya, i'm sure you'll have to play around with it a bit to see how/what works best for your setup but you should deffinately see an improvement, i'm sure of it........
good luck
 
is there significant risk using it with the crack?

I have talked to others who dont use the stack dampner, how much heat is really lost?

Your never gonna get decent burn times with a crack in door. It's an air leak. you lose the ability to properly control of the stove until you fix that crack. Also a plate steel stove is the fastest too cool versus cast iron or soapstone. You definately need to use the stack dmaper if you have one. They hold back allot of heat and slow the burn down. Try about 45 degrees closed (halfway) but first off fix that cracked door!
 
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