googled and rural king now has Mystik and Cam3 at 6.99 a gallon. may run down there as I'm about out. will need 2 or 3 gallons to finish this mess.
new to me 036 adventure
- Thread starter flatsfisher
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Check the in tank filter. Also clean the oil outlet and crud in bar groove.
Damm bar oil prices are crazy. I wait for sales/clearance and buy up a bunch. No real brand preference.
I tried to pull the oil tank filter out just now and the line is too short to get it out of the tank far enough t pull it off. I pulled it up with a hooked wire and grabbed with needle nose pliers and it doesn't even reach the spout of the tank. hopefully I didn't overstretch it. will work on it again in the morning. thanks for the tip.
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2019
- Messages
- 4,629
- Reaction score
- 9,399
Easier to take that line out from under the pump.
You might find it easier to add some diesel to your thick oil to thin it down a little- but in reality, 3/4 a tank of oil to one of fuel is not too bad- you certainly don't want it the other way around!
Stihls seem to supply "enough" oil, but never too much- if your chain is good and sharp, bar rails clean, oil delivery hole clean and you can lift the chain and see oil on the drive links- I would call it good.
cool. thanks!
My $.02 advice is used NON ethanol gas ether ethanol free at pump or canned gas.(I like Husqvarna 50:1 but add 16ml for 1 gallon of 2 stroke oil(Klotz smells nice used to race CR125 back in the 80's at the "sandpit "Southwick 338) to get to 40:1.
I use some diesel or stale mix to rinse out the oil tank. Takes most of the crud off the filter without having to pull the hose/filter. Wiping off around the oil and gas caps, when filling, goes a long way to keeping the filters clean
I like to take the oil pump loose leaving the outlet pipe in the case and using a dremel I bevel the adjuster bolt head . This will allow further travel of the adjuster and further movement of the oil pump cam increasing oil output, be very careful as you can empty the oil tank before using the fuel up.
I love these 034/036 saws so much I now own 3, yes the oem is noticably better than aftermarket. Even the smaller 46mm 034 performs better than aftermarket esp if you delete the base gasket and open the muffler. Some like to use only sealant, I prefer copier paper coated in copper cote or aviation sealant as the gasket
To my knowledge there are 6 cylinders made for stihl that fit that chassy. 034 46mm bore, one by mahle and one by kolben, 034 super 48mm most are kolben but it is rumered mahle made a early version, 036 48mm no decomp mahle and kolben both made cylinder for stihl, 036 pro 48mm has decomp kolben and mahle both made versions for stihl. I have a theory there might be a third version for cylinders with only stihl cast into it being possibly made by elco konig, this applies to other models as well.
I love these 034/036 saws so much I now own 3, yes the oem is noticably better than aftermarket. Even the smaller 46mm 034 performs better than aftermarket esp if you delete the base gasket and open the muffler. Some like to use only sealant, I prefer copier paper coated in copper cote or aviation sealant as the gasket
To my knowledge there are 6 cylinders made for stihl that fit that chassy. 034 46mm bore, one by mahle and one by kolben, 034 super 48mm most are kolben but it is rumered mahle made a early version, 036 48mm no decomp mahle and kolben both made cylinder for stihl, 036 pro 48mm has decomp kolben and mahle both made versions for stihl. I have a theory there might be a third version for cylinders with only stihl cast into it being possibly made by elco konig, this applies to other models as well.
agree. the only thing I put ethanol pump gas in is my truck.
the inside of the oil tank looks immaculate, but I can't get a good look at the filter yet. maybe I will put some non eth in the oil tank and shake it up.
not ready to dremel anything yet. I am tempted to order a NOS KS top end. I thought Kolben was a name but it just means piston in german. Schmidt Piston, or piston smith.
this morning with the oil tank empty I used 3M spray gun cleaner and blasted the oil tank filter while it was still in the tank as the hose seems short and I can't get it out without going to great lengths. then I filled the oil tank about halfway with non eth gas and shook it around for a couple of minutes and dumped it into a big jar. not much dirt came out with the gas but a little bit did. cut for a couple hours and the oil use increased from 3/4 tank of oil per 1 tank of fuel to almost a full tank of oil. and the chain had noticeably more oil on it. I'm going to call the bar oil thing good. thanks for the suggestions.
^^^Ditto.
well, just for fun I went ahead and bought this NOS OEM top end from ebay. will be interesting to see if it actually has more power and torque than the after-market top end. it is a KS (Kolben-Schmidt) top end with Stihl markings. includes cylinder, piston, rings, wrist pin and circlips. everything is OEM. I need to find and order an OEM wrist pin bearing today as that was not included. the stock base gasket is 1mm thick. I have an aftermarket base gasket that is .55mm thick. will check squish when the parts arrive in a few days.
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2019
- Messages
- 4,629
- Reaction score
- 9,399
Use your old, or buy new 0.5mm gasket- the 1mm gasket is to reduce compression for areas of the World where you have to run low octane fuel- or for little old 80 plus year old ladies that still like to run saws.
did not know about the low octane thing. as I said above a have a new 0.55 gasket.
I love working on these things. my NOS top end kit will be here tomorrow (UPS usually gets here after dark dammit) so I pulled the top end off in anticipation. took like 10 minutes to get the cylinder off, including cleaning as I went. speaking of cleaning is this a normal amount of crap on the air filter after 4 days or so of cutting (dry, hard oak)? guess I need to clean it more often.
good news is the crank is stock (has the 1125 part number on the rod) and is tight and smooth. the rod has side to side movement of course but completely tight up and down on the big end bearing.
Have you checked the chain for proper depth gauge setting ?
honestly, no. the file I'm using has built-in flat files next to the round files that take the depth gauges down. I need to check though to make sure it is cutting the right amount.
