New wood stove I built! What ya think?

[Dan_IN_MN]

Vary nice work!

OP....VARY NICE WORK!

I too am thinking about adding secondary air to my add on wood furnace.

At some point I'm going to take a few pics of it w/o a fire in it. I'll be asking for input on what would be the best for adding the secondary air.

The nice thing is that I work for a metal fab shop so once I get a game plan in place it shouldn't take too much to get it done.

 

[cuttingintime]

Very rewarding use item built with your own hands.

 

[gaucho]

Where did you get your research material?

.." I cannot say that I slapped it together either. I only had about 24 hours build time on it but a few months of researching and designing."

I am just starting to plan a small stove for the office in my shop and I am looking for plans and ideas so, can you tell me where you got your information?

Thanks in advance

 

[Husq445]

I didnt use any one source, bits and pieces from existing wood burners on the market. Hours on hours of surfing the web. It didnt end up looking like anything that is on the market.

The idea was to build one that had the efficiency of the new stoves and easy to start like the old without having to leave a door or ashpan door open for an hour to get it going.

 

[needwood]

Man thats nice"""""""""""

That not only looks good but it sounds like a very efficient stove. I think only 1 guy asked if you could make him 1,now make it 2! ! !

 

[Husq445]

The idea came up at work about building and selling these, actually.

Decided against it, 2 reasons.

1. The amount of material that I used would bring the cost up significantly. (Unaffordable)
I used almost a 4ft by 10ft sheet of 1/4in steel
12ft of 2in bushing stock 3/8in wall
2ft of 2in x 2in x 1/4in square tube
misc stainless steel parts for the controls
The thinnest steel in 1/4 anywhere.

2. Liabilty, not sure the insurance company would be on the same page with this one.

 

[needwood]

The idea came up at work about building and selling these, actually.

Decided against it, 2 reasons.

1. The amount of material that I used would bring the cost up significantly. (Unaffordable)
I used almost a 4ft by 10ft sheet of 1/4in steel
12ft of 2in bushing stock 3/8in wall
2ft of 2in x 2in x 1/4in square tube
misc stainless steel parts for the controls
The thinnest steel in 1/4 anywhere.

2. Liabilty, not sure the insurance company would be on the same page with this one.

Thought about that myself", But, that stove looks so damn good and works good, you should be able to get it listed!!!"" Do you think you could build it and sell it for $1,000?

 

[pook]

great!
actual temp of fluegas is 50% higher than the temp of the stovepipe
my old EPA trailblazer stove brings in the primary air from bottom front, thru 2 channels,& then to an open port above the door= the air is preheated with this design
Some EPA stoves have insulation above the baffle ithinx. I also think the reason for establishing 2ndary flames above the woodload is to prompt the woodload to burn from the top down thereby resulting in a more stable burn
Q= why did u have the top plate angle down on the sides of the stove ?

 

[Husq445]

Thanks!

No not for $1000

I'll have to run the numbers again at work but I think if someone where to come in and buy just the materials to do this stove, around $800-$900 in steel.

I went alot heavier than I probably needed to with everything (the welder in me), but I only wanted to do it once.

The owners that I work for are gems.
I was in the office going through the materials that I had used on the monday morning after the build from the weekend.:msp_scared: He asked what I was doing and I proceeded to tell him what I had built and was billing the material out.
He said aaaww dont worry about it!
This is why I love my job!

 

[Husq445]

great!
actual temp of fluegas is 50% higher than the temp of the stovepipe
my old EPA trailblazer stove brings in the primary air from bottom front, thru 2 channels,& then to an open port above the door= the air is preheated with this design
Some EPA stoves have insulation above the baffle ithinx. I also think the reason for establishing 2ndary flames above the woodload is to prompt the woodload to burn from the top down thereby resulting in a more stable burn
Q= why did u have the top plate angle down on the sides of the stove ?

Yup, I built mine with the top down burn method

As far as the top.
Looks. Acts like a heatsink for the top. Thought maybe it would help radiate in different directions

 

[needwood]

Thats cool!!!

Thanks!

No not for $1000

I'll have to run the numbers again at work but I think if someone where to come in and buy just the materials to do this stove, around $800-$900 in steel.

I went alot heavier than I probably needed to with everything (the welder in me), but I only wanted to do it once.

The owners that I work for are gems.
I was in the office going through the materials that I had used on the monday morning after the build from the weekend.:msp_scared: He asked what I was doing and I proceeded to tell him what I had built and was billing the material out.
He said aaaww dont worry about it!
This is why I love my job!

How about $2000? That's a nice looking stove man" " " I gave bout $500 for my stove. It was a $1000 stove on clearance. Long story friend but i got a new 1 at another store,still in the crate for the same price" Think i can come up with the money for one of yours"

 

[pook]

Yup, I built mine with the top down burn method

As far as the top.
Looks. Acts like a heatsink for the top. Thought maybe it would help radiate in different directions

Top bent down acts like a convective air heat trap & may result in walls getting hotter below. The hotter walls will result in more radiation of heat , horizontally & like a flashlight, & may increase the clearance to combustibles distance.
EPA certified wood stoves, EPA certified wood burning stoves | Vogelzang

Compare the Highlander & the Defender, both identical except for exterior configurations & blower. What do u see & what conclusion?---this i posted on another site which after analysis the #s reveal that the stove with higher burning efficiency is also rated to heat a smaller area so theres a fine line somewhere. 1 blower is involved also

 

[7hpjim]

Very rewarding use item built with your own hands.

+1:msp_biggrin:

 

[WidowMaker]

Great work, I don't care for the top plate, but that just a personnal thing...reps to ya...

Where does it pick up primary air and what are the holes above the door about???? I'm assuming the T handle is the by pass plate???

 

[Husq445]

Was bored this weekend and was tinkering with my stove loading it in different configurations, when watching it pretty close I noticed that some smoke was tunneling between the tubes and running to the back without burning up completely all the time. I also noticed at the back combustion was a little marginal, seen this before.

Well when I built the stove I omitted the holes at the very back of the top tubes in fear that it would just cool the exhaust gasses, wrong.

I decided to modify it
Let the fire die out
opened the windows it wouldnt cool down fast enough (wife and kids at inlaws for the weekend)

Let me tell you one thing adding these holes sucked, my arms still hurt.
I drilled holes laterally between the top tubes to burn up the tunneling smoke, then drilled a series of holes on the vertical upright tubes at the back of the stove to cure the mediocre combustion at the rear.

Now I have air coming in from the front, the back, and all the way across the top.

I still cannot believe how well it worked!
Just a few minutes after I light it now, 0 smoke and I mean Zero!
Before I could only shut my primary down about 3/4 sometimes down to 1/2.
Now I can actually shut my primary completely and about almost all blue flame dancing.

Was hoping that I had not messed up my long burn times.
Stoked it up this morning before I left at 6:30 and returned home at 6:00pm tossed in some wood and away she went, Nice.

This thing throws heat like a mother now, did before but holy ****!

Flue temps running a consistant 375 to 400 degrees now, makes me feel better, they were a litte too low for my comfort at only 275


Here is a pic of when I was building it when it was upside down so you can see where I am talking about.

And one with it right sided

 

[beavis331]

That is one sweet wood burner! Sounds like you are really getty it dialed in! :msp_thumbup:

 

[K2Orion]

Very cool. Now some questions.
What diameter are the secondary tubes?
What diameter are the holes in the secondary tubes?
I guess the silver plate under the damper handle is the primary air/airwash?
Does the glass stay clean if the primary is shut completely?

I have a smoke dragon insert that heats my house, but I would like to build my own to replace it. I want something thats a little more efficient and with a bigger firebox for longer burn times. I only have a 17wx12hx10d firebox in my 24hx24wx18d fireplace.
I have 5 30x60" sheets of 3/16 plate that I "liberated" from the scrap bin at work that are asking to be turned into something useful. And I'm pretty sure I will have less $$$ in it than buying new even if I have to buy the door and glass.

 

[Husq445]

Very cool. Now some questions.
What diameter are the secondary tubes?
What diameter are the holes in the secondary tubes?
I guess the silver plate under the damper handle is the primary air/airwash?
Does the glass stay clean if the primary is shut completely?

I have a smoke dragon insert that heats my house, but I would like to build my own to replace it. I want something thats a little more efficient and with a bigger firebox for longer burn times. I only have a 17wx12hx10d firebox in my 24hx24wx18d fireplace.
I have 5 30x60" sheets of 3/16 plate that I "liberated" from the scrap bin at work that are asking to be turned into something useful. And I'm pretty sure I will have less $$$ in it than buying new even if I have to buy the door and glass.

Secondary tubes are 2' OD 1 1/4" ID 3/8" wall bushing stock. Drilled holes are 1/8 and 3/16.
The stainless plate is Primary air and airwash yes.
With the the airwash shut it does fog the glass but only a little, unless the stove is Hot then its clear.

That handle is actually a diverter plate and not a damper if that makes sense. In that it does not close down the opening but moves the opening from the back to the front.

With the heat with the diverter pushed in, combusts in the chamber goes up the opening in the back of the stove hits the diverter plate has to travel all the way back to the front of the stove then across just under the whole top plate plate of the stove to the back and up the flue. ( In a Z patern)


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[K2Orion]

Thanks!!
I understand how the bypass works, I was just lazy and called it a damper. Thanks again.
Now I need to find a door.

Is your stove used to heat a shop/garage? Or do you have diamond plate on your walls and a lawnmower for a coffee table in your living room?

My plan is to build an insert for use in my fireplace. I would like to incorporate an ash cleanout door in the bottom to line up with the ash door in my fireplace. And if I can, figure out how to use that same ash door in the fireplace for outside air for the secondary air. Any suggestions/comments? If I'm hijacking, let me know and I'll edit.

 

[Eccentric]

Fantastic work Rick! Thanks for the link. Gonna save this one for later...:yourock: