Newbie wedge question

[sperho]

Tastes great! :monkey:

 

[sawinredneck]

I ordered a half dozen of 5", been near perfect for everything I have cut. Get the cheap ones first, don't worry about what you will do with hammer, you will cut them up with the saw first:hmm3grin2orange: But like the others said, ge plenty of them, once you start using them for bucking, you're life will never be the same again, and you will never have too many wedges!!!

 

[PA Plumber]

On Sale

Your in luck, Woodie. Bailys has wedges on sale and I'm looking to get some more. I have the 5.5 inchers and use them for bucking/blocking and they're pretty handy. I bought 6 of the 8" rifled wedges and they certainly are nice to stack. I have been beating up on them pretty hard and it has been recommended to me to try Bailys Green ones in 10". I am considering an order in the next few days.

Buy at least 1/2 dozen if you are serious about falling some trees.

 

[clearance]

There is a difference between bucking and falling wedges, know it. I have three of each in my belt, along with my tape. I just carry my axe (I am not in the bush), it is a 41/2lb. Arvika.

 

[sawinredneck]

There is a difference between bucking and falling wedges, know it. I have three of each in my belt, along with my tape. I just carry my axe (I am not in the bush), it is a 41/2lb. Arvika.

I am sure there is a difference clearance, but did anyone bother to tell you I am a redneck?:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Woodie]

Like John Ellison says...get a variety. And get several. It really sucks to use all your wedges and still need just one more. The cheapos are good to learn with. Another tip...hit the wedge and look up, hit the wedge and look up....repeat until something starts to move. Look up often...I can't emphasize that enough. Dead limbs, pine cones, bird nests (don't laugh,some of them are huge) will make you wish you'd stayed home that day. And no need, usually, to really slam the wedge. Start wedging early enough and you won't have to hit it too hard. I've seen wedges break and one I know of first hand added a couple of paragraphs to the faller's dental records. And (since I'm lecturing) don't expect wedges to compensate for poorly executed cuts....at least not every time. You can do a lot with wedges but sneak up on that fancy stuff a little at a time.

Good stuff...keep it coming! (That goes for the rest of you, too...good info...more please!!)

 

[John Ellison]

Two twelve inchers and some black tape make a passable splint on a broken forearm.... if you forget about looking up.

 

[Gologit]

Two twelve inchers and some black tape make a passable splint on a broken forearm.... if you forget about looking up.

Yup. And if you need a tourniquet a wedge makes a good winder.

 

[Dubai Vol]

I second the recommendation of the Bailey's green 10" wedges. Wish I'd ordered more, but what do I know, I'm so green the Bailey's wedges blend right in with me. I got a variety, and still have a lot to learn about using them. For a raw newbie like me, this forum is pure gold

 

[2000ssm6]

Okay, so I'd like to get into some falling now. (You bastages are having all the fun!)

Are those a part of the cabbage family:jester:

 

[Husky137]

opcorn: ....Just come on down here and I'll show ya' what I'm talking about....I think I would much rather pull on a rope with a tractor or a skid loader than pound on a wedge with a hammer...I do keep them around,but do not use them to fall big trees.

Try learning how to use wedges properly. I would have a tree limbed and bucked by the time you had your bull rope set. Wedges are so much easier when applied with some know-how.

Hey Clearance, Double WOW!


I like a mix of the small 5 1/2" & 8" double tapers and some 10" hardheads.

 

[West Texas]

I would recommend the cheap plastic wedges for a beginner, its amazing how many of those my chain chewed up until I get the hang of using wedges and a running saw at the same time. The plastic wedges are cheaper than a good chain any day. Once you've used a few and chewed a few, you will know what's best for you and your situation. Good luck.

 

[joesawer]

Get the Fundamentals of general tree work by G F Brenarek from Baileys also.
It has much more practical application and lots of good pics.
If you are working in the woods get a straight handled ax with a flat back surface, carry it in your belt. It is a must for breaking out face cuts, driving and trimming wedges.
When your wedges mushroom out you can set them in the kerf and trim them with some careful swings of the axe.
Get some different taper wedges. A thin taper will drive easier and get a tree started moving but might not move it ahead enough so then you can set a faster taper and tip it over. When stacking wedges the thin ones are much easier and safer, never stack any wedges more than two high. The middle wedge has no grip on the wood and will spit out very easy. If a 2" to 3" inch lift in the back cut wont tip it over it is well beyond the limits of wedges any way. Beware of the wedges spitting out, set the wedge with gentle blows. If you really have to hit the wedge hard, set another wedge. Two wedges have roughly twice the lift, three triple etc.
The cuts you make when wedging are the most critical part of being sucsessful. You must have a good hinge but to much and the tree won't move ahead. Making you back cut high (Stumpshot) will make it a little harder to wedge the tree. Make it lower than the face, even by a little, makes wedging extremly difficult. Wedging is about finess not brut force.
Be careful, have fun and live to do it again tomorrow.

 

[Cheese]

Those rifled wedges are a pain to get in when I have misjudged or the wind picks up. The rifle groove and slightly higher profile has made things exciting when thye didn't go in right away.

I always carry pairs of wedges of the same size, usually 4 in my pockets, a couple more hanging at the truck.

Newbie or otherwise, use plastic then if you have to put some teeth to them the chain is fine.

 

[SawTroll]

Like John Ellison says...get a variety. And get several. It really sucks to use all your wedges and still need just one more. The cheapos are good to learn with. Another tip...hit the wedge and look up, hit the wedge and look up....repeat until something starts to move. Look up often...I can't emphasize that enough. Dead limbs, pine cones, bird nests (don't laugh,some of them are huge) will make you wish you'd stayed home that day. And no need, usually, to really slam the wedge. Start wedging early enough and you won't have to hit it too hard. I've seen wedges break and one I know of first hand added a couple of paragraphs to the faller's dental records. And (since I'm lecturing) don't expect wedges to compensate for poorly executed cuts....at least not every time. You can do a lot with wedges but sneak up on that fancy stuff a little at a time.

As others said, very good advice!

Personally, I mostly use 5" wedges, and I see no reason to have longer wedges than 8", for 20" trees.

I like to have at least tree 5" ones, and a couple of 8" ones with me, when felling + you need some spare ones to complete the set as needed, between the trips.

 

[Timberhauler]

Try learning how to use wedges properly. I would have a tree limbed and bucked by the time you had your bull rope set. Wedges are so much easier when applied with some know-how.

Hey Clearance, Double WOW!


I like a mix of the small 5 1/2" & 8" double tapers and some 10" hardheads.

I like my method better.

 

[Ed*L]

Get the Fundamentals of general tree work by G F Brenarek from Baileys also.
It has much more practical application and lots of good pics.
If you are working in the woods get a straight handled ax with a flat back surface, carry it in your belt. It is a must for breaking out face cuts, driving and trimming wedges.
When your wedges mushroom out you can set them in the kerf and trim them with some careful swings of the axe.
Get some different taper wedges. A thin taper will drive easier and get a tree started moving but might not move it ahead enough so then you can set a faster taper and tip it over. When stacking wedges the thin ones are much easier and safer, never stack any wedges more than two high. The middle wedge has no grip on the wood and will spit out very easy. If a 2" to 3" inch lift in the back cut wont tip it over it is well beyond the limits of wedges any way. Beware of the wedges spitting out, set the wedge with gentle blows. If you really have to hit the wedge hard, set another wedge. Two wedges have roughly twice the lift, three triple etc.
The cuts you make when wedging are the most critical part of being sucsessful. You must have a good hinge but to much and the tree won't move ahead. Making you back cut high (Stumpshot) will make it a little harder to wedge the tree. Make it lower than the face, even by a little, makes wedging extremly difficult. Wedging is about finess not brut force.
Be careful, have fun and live to do it again tomorrow.

Very well said.

Ed

 

[Husky137]

I like my method better.

Bull ropes have a time and place. I use one from time to time , but always back it up with wedges. What do you do when your pull line breaks?

 

[Gypo Logger]

It's been my finding that using wedges can create problems as well as get you out of them.
It's sorta like a parking brake on a vehicle, either use it all the time or never at all. Wedges, especialy on large hardwoods will only commit a tree so far.
Just like falling, wedges require technique and a knowledge of the mechanical advantage they have.
Surely on the big trees of the west, wedges are just as important as a bar wrench.
John

 

[SawTroll]

I like my method better.

For domestic trees, I understand that, but in the woods that will slow the work down quite a bit, I believe.....