Failing graft.
It's possible that both root stocks are not the same.
.
It's possible that both root stocks are not the same.
.
The "graft" must remain above ground,,Why aren't the roots underground at least five inches??
In my area there was a peculiar winter. Climate change exists, despite the adamant loud mouthed deniers. Cold weather doesn't kill trees, cold winters aren't responsible for damage, the warm periods in the middle of winter and the warm early "spring" followed by a late frost is what kills things. Freeze, thaw, freeze, thaw, freeze thaw. It messes with the typical cycle of plants. In my location (Ontario, zone 5-4) the peaches, sweet cherries, beeches and buckeye/hors chestnuts have suffered a terrible blow and my center is suffering a loss that is fast approaching the surge we got from the COVID gardeners. I mean, we expected a lot of these newbies to kill their plants but it's out of control this season.
Raintree does seem to know what they are doing, so I was led to believe this thread was intended for the benefit of the Googlers. Obviously, being from TN, the winter isn't to blame but I listed that as a concern for others in more temperamental locations. Planting too deep, poor draining clay and mulching against the trunk can certainly cause these symptoms, as can an unexpected late frost.I suspect phytopthera root rot, based only on the odd color on the root crown and what appears to be cracking bark. That isn't a great picture, you know. Ya coulda gotten a bit closer to the ground with that camera.
- This is obviously not winter kill. It's got wilted leaves.
- Root girdling cannot yet be a problem, as that tree was planted only a year ago.
- I don't think the photo's show any definitive "buried too deep". Furthermore, I don't think Raintree is going to plant one too deep. Notice he said "my property".
- I'm thinking recent heat wave has escalated the cause of the wilting and scorched leaves, coupled with a general vascular decline yet undiagnosed. Notice the other trees have no scorched leaves, and are actively setting fruit. This tree has been declining for quite some time.
I believe some tree varieties are a good deal more resistant to that disease than other varieties, but I don't do any orchard maintenance.
This tree has been declining for quite some time.
that tree was planted only a year ago.
Roots that are above ground will typically harden and become wood, burying a bit too shallow doesn't TYPICALLY cause a concern, as long as they get well watered. Raintree is definitely doing a good job watering, so I'm leaning in th eother direction.Why aren't the roots underground at least five inches??
Not so much a clarification for my benefit, but (once again, for the Googlers) I trust it will be appreciated.
These were planted a season ago, does that make the current situation easier to understand?
Good call Del, the graft has failed. What is the clue from the pictures other than the wilted leaves that the graft has failed?Failing graft.
It's possible that both root stocks are not the same.
.
Excellent guess pdqdl, Phytophthora symptoms would mirror what we see in the wilting apple. It's always something to consider when making observations that a soil borne fungus came in with the nursery stock. Since I am high and dry here with no other trees being symptomatic its unlikely. However we cannot rule it out, when I pull out the tree shortly I will check.Research says read here:
https://apples.extension.org/table-of-apple-rootstock-susceptibility-to-phytophthora-spp/
Clay soil? "The disease often affects low areas of orchards having heavy, poorly drained soils"
And this note: "Because a number of Phytophthora species cause root, crown, and collar rot, it is difficult to make absolute statements about the relative susceptibility of different rootstocks to these diseases."
To move this thread along look closely at this picture. View attachment 997020
Who can tell me what's going on with this root collar?
Yes, that's about it. If you grew a variety of apple solely from its seed. You would get wildly inconsistent apple fruit, different levels of sugars and textures. Grafting gives you consistency. Picking a compatible root stock that is hardy and vigorous. The scion or twig to be attached may not of had a robust root system. When the graft fails quickly the scion doesn't have the opportunity to sprout adventitious roots, the tree just dies. In my case the graft slowly failed, when I planted it last year I saw the problem. I was hoping the new scion roots would take over and support the tree. This does have its own challenges, I'll make an other post to explain.Idk anything about grafting... but trying to understand what the problem is here...
So a grafted tree has two different trees joined/grafted together, the tree that's supposed to grow above ground and the tree that grows the roots and what happened with your tree is the root part of the graft died and the top part sent out it's own roots?
No, it's just the natural variations in the variety of fruit, the consumer wants consistency. Right now in TN the black berries are ready to pick. Ever notice the difference in the berries between patches?Would that be because the seeds could have the genetic characteristics of either parts of the grafted tree the apple came from?