Nik's Poulan Thread

[8433jeff]

Bailey's is apparently out of stock on that one. After much effort, since it is not listed under current grinders, I managed to get it to come up. Baileys has a review comparing it to the non-Chinese 511ax. They pretty much nixed it giving a long list of issues compared to the Italian one. I did find some of them listed at other places with various paint schemes and brand names. Cheapest was about $170. Even found a Y-tube showing trick to reverse motor for controlling feathering of the grind. Seemed like they were spinning the wheel for the same direction as filing a tooth.
A thought occurred to me about excess heat of grinding, if that occurs. From my days of grinding long ago, if I remember correctly, the most heat is at the last (as the wheel spins) part of the object in contact with wheel. And since that is often the thinnest point if making a blade, it being thinner makes it harder to move heat away from and thus the bluing.
Would it be better if the wheel was spinning so it's first contact with tooth is at the point of the chisel?

Think about what happens if the wheel lets go before switching the direction. Anybody's that had one come apart will tell you that could be a bad day. Same for guys that have that at eye height.
Some people have hooked up an air hose to blow on the tooth, as it doesn't take much air to cool it enough. Keeping the wheel clean is another must.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

I recently picked up a 3400 and a 4000. They both are giving me fits. Right now I am wanting to fix this 4000. It starts right up and runs great, after a few good revs or a few cuts it will lean out and race at idle then it will die and will not start without full choke and full throttle and as soon as you push the choke in it will die again. I replace the fuel lines and filter. I did not rebuild the carb but I did tear the carb apart and clean it. (the local ace did not have a rebuild kit in stock) The diaphram seems good and soft. What do you guys think, seals? Or...

 

[fossil]

I recently picked up a 3400 and a 4000. They both are giving me fits. Right now I am wanting to fix this 4000. It starts right up and runs great, after a few good revs or a few cuts it will lean out and race at idle then it will die and will not start without full choke and full throttle and as soon as you push the choke in it will die again. I replace the fuel lines and filter. I did not rebuild the carb but I did tear the carb apart and clean it. (the local ace did not have a rebuild kit in stock) The diaphram seems good and soft. What do you guys think, seals? Or...

It sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak. I've found that some saws test OK when they haven't been run in a long time and then after some running start to leak. If you don't have the equipment to test for vacuum leaks then I would replace the crank seals and make sure that you have a good gasket between the carb and the adaptor.
I would also make sure the fuel filter is clean. If you need to buy crank seals you can use National 253747
Put a carb kit in it anyway.
If you can't get the 4000 going, send to me and I will fix it and test for 10 years or so.
Both saws are definitely worth the effort to get them going.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

It sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak. I've found that some saws test OK when they haven't been run in a long time and then after some running start to leak. If you don't have the equipment to test for vacuum leaks then I would replace the crank seals and make sure that you have a good gasket between the carb and the adaptor.
I would also make sure the fuel filter is clean. If you need to buy crank seals you can use National 253747
Put a carb kit in it anyway.
If you can't get the 4000 going, send to me and I will fix it and test for 10 years or so.
Both saws are definitely worth the effort to get them going.

I know they are good saw. This is like 4000 #10 and 3400#20 for me lol. I have never replace any crank seals though(did I just admit that) Anyhow are the crankseals the sme part# for the 3400, 3700 and 4000? Are they the same part # for both sides of the saw?

 

[fossil]

I know they are good saw. This is like 4000 #10 and 3400#20 for me lol. I have never replace any crank seals though(did I just admit that) Anyhow are the crankseals the sme part# for the 3400, 3700 and 4000? Are they the same part # for both sides of the saw?

Same both sides. Same cases and bottom ends on those saws. 3400, 3700, 3800, 4000. Do you have a repair manual for those saws?
If not, I can PM you a link where you can download one.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Same both sides. Same cases and bottom ends on those saws. 3400, 3700, 3800, 4000. Do you have a repair manual for those saws?
If not, I can PM you a link where you can download one.

No I don't have a repair manual for these. Also I googled the national # you said it was and it was a transmission seal.

 

[fossil]

No I don't have a repair manual for these. Also I googled the national # you said it was and it was a transmission seal.

It is that and a great Poulan and Homelite crank seal as well. Saw manufacturers don't make seals and pick them from a list of available seals or have them made specifically for their applIcation if they have the volume to justify the tooling expense. Nitrile Shaft seals generally have a shelf life of 5 -10 years so if you can get a seal of the correct size, design and lip material it's better to get them rather that go for a 20 year old NOS seal.
i'll PM you the linK to the manual.

 

[rms61moparman]

I recently picked up a 3400 and a 4000. They both are giving me fits. Right now I am wanting to fix this 4000. It starts right up and runs great, after a few good revs or a few cuts it will lean out and race at idle then it will die and will not start without full choke and full throttle and as soon as you push the choke in it will die again. I replace the fuel lines and filter. I did not rebuild the carb but I did tear the carb apart and clean it. (the local ace did not have a rebuild kit in stock) The diaphram seems good and soft. What do you guys think, seals? Or...

Is the tank vent good in that 4000 John???
Sounds like it is sucking a vacuum on the tank.

Mike

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Is the tank vent good in that 4000 John???
Sounds like it is sucking a vacuum on the tank.

Mike

I thought possibly the same thein Mike. So I tried to open the cap on the tank and it made no difference.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

thing not thein :msp_rolleyes:

 

[Modifiedmark]

I recently picked up a 3400 and a 4000. They both are giving me fits. Right now I am wanting to fix this 4000. It starts right up and runs great, after a few good revs or a few cuts it will lean out and race at idle then it will die and will not start without full choke and full throttle and as soon as you push the choke in it will die again. I replace the fuel lines and filter. I did not rebuild the carb but I did tear the carb apart and clean it. (the local ace did not have a rebuild kit in stock) The diaphram seems good and soft. What do you guys think, seals? Or...

John, check the intake manifold and make sure its tight and the gaskets are not leaking.

Spay a little carb cleaner around it while its running and if it dies, you found your air leak.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

It is that and a great Poulan and Homelite crank seal as well. Saw manufacturers don't make seals and pick them from a list of available seals or have them made specifically for their applIcation if they have the volume to justify the tooling expense. Nitrile Shaft seals generally have a shelf life of 5 -10 years so if you can get a seal of the correct size, design and lip material it's better to get them rather that go for a 20 year old NOS seal.
i'll PM you the linK to the manual.

Is there a national # for the 306 and 245 crank seals also. I have a 245 that could use them also. I may try to pick them up if they are available through national.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

John, check the intake manifold and make sure its tight and the gaskets are not leaking.

Spay a little carb cleaner around it while its running and if it dies, you found your air leak.

I thought that also but did'nt take the time to try it like a dumbazz. The cars always revved higher when they had a gasket leak under the carb and I would spray the cleaner.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Is there a national # for the 306 and 245 crank seals also. I have a 245 that could use them also. I may try to pick them up if they are available through national.

Look here for the 306 seals.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/197286.htm
I have not ordered any of the seals Hotshot come up with but there probably closer then the ones I came up with

 

[Acornhill]

Plastic Poulans 4018 / 2450?

So i fixed a couple plastic Poulans, a 4018 and a 2450 Woodmaster (i think that is what it is). both say different cc's but have a label that says 42cc's. This is what you guys have been talking about? they are really 42cc saws but labelled as lower cc's. the 4018 calls for a 18" bar and the 2450 should be the same as well?View attachment 287975View attachment 287976

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Look here for the 306 seals.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/197286.htm
I have not ordered any of the seals Hotshot come up with but there probably closer then the ones I came up with

I just read the complete thread Mark and I am no smarter than I was before I read it. What is the factory # for the pto side and the flywheel side?

 

[Acornhill]

I just read the complete thread Mark and I am no smarter than I was before I read it. What is the factory # for the pto side and the flywheel side?

PTO side is 530001936, the flywheel side is # 530019042 (bearing carrier seal)

 

[Flintknapper]

I got a very small screwdriver that I bent the end on and slide it between the crank and seal to pull them out. Those cranks are harder then the cheap screwdriver and I have not scratched one yet.
.

Crank seals came out easily enough. Just used a very small screwdriver and tapped one side down into the bore and then removed it with a small pick.

Question: The seals were flush with the top of the bore and I plan to install them the same way, just curious why there is room underneath the seals. Seems like they would fit better if driven to the bottom.

When I did my 4900 I used a small strip from a 'negative' (film camera) to keep the lip of the seal from catching on the 'step' of the crankshaft, but if push comes to shove....I could be persuaded to drink a beer and use the aluminum can to accomplish the same thing. :msp_wink:

 

[leecopland]

bar length

So i fixed a couple plastic Poulans, a 4018 and a 2450 Woodmaster (i think that is what it is). both say different cc's but have a label that says 42cc's. This is what you guys have been talking about? they are really 42cc saws but labelled as lower cc's. the 4018 calls for a 18" bar and the 2450 should be the same as well?View attachment 287975View attachment 287976

You can use a 14", 16" or 18". I find the replacements for 16" a little more plentiful to find though. Not much difference in using. Happy cutting

Lee:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Kostas]

Crank seals came out easily enough. Just used a very small screwdriver and tapped one side down into the bore and then removed it with a small pick.

Question: The seals were flush with the top of the bore and I plan to install them the same way, just curious why there is room underneath the seals. Seems like they would fit better if driven to the bottom.

When I did my 4900 I used a small strip from a 'negative' (film camera) to keep the lip of the seal from catching on the 'step' of the crankshaft, but if push comes to shove....I could be persuaded to drink a beer and use the aluminum can to accomplish the same thing. :msp_wink:

The same way i used to replace the seals on my 4200.Very easy.