Nik's Poulan Thread

[Modifiedmark]

THAT Homelite doesn't ruin ANY picture!
That is a fantastic example of one of Homelite's best and any true Poulan lover can appreciate it for its place in chainsaw history.



Mike

Yep 2nd place overall aint too shabby. I aint saying who was first except we all know it wasnt McCulluluck.

As for that guy hoisting that said Homelite, he is a saw whore! He likes em all and aint got any that are turds cept maybe those couple he got from me.

 

[Modifiedmark]

That's good to hear, as that 4900 will be wearing a 28" B/C shortly after it arrives here Jim.

Good choice! It will rock with it.

 

[Eccentric]

Good choice! It will rock with it.

I think so too Mark. My 5200 will most likely run a 36" bar. That reminds me......I have a PM to return..

 

[Acornhill]

3700 3400 bar clamps look very closely

Well, i decided to take the handle off of the 3700 tonight to install a new throttle lock and i could not figure out how all of the springs went back in so i went down and pulled my 3400 out to see how they went, i got it all done and decided to take a few pics of them together, what did i see!!! look very closely @ the bar clamps. Looks like that bow bar will fit right on the 3400. if so i am one happy camper. i have owned that 3400 since new and never noticed it.
View attachment 287803View attachment 287804

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well, i decided to take the handle off of the 3700 tonight to install a new throttle lock and i could not figure out how all of the springs went back in so i went down and pulled my 3400 out to see how they went, i got it all done and decided to take a few pics of them together, what did i see!!! look very closely @ the bar clamps. Looks like that bow bar will fit right on the 3400. if so i am one happy camper. i have owned that 3400 since new and never noticed it.
View attachment 287803View attachment 287804

Dont get too excited yet, it looks like the clutch cover on the 3400 has been cut but the case has not been cut for it and will have to be cut to use that bow.

If your going to cut a case to use the bow, do the 3700, you need all the power you can get to pull that bow.

 

[Acornhill]

Dont get too excited yet, it looks like the clutch cover on the 3400 has been cut but the case has not been cut for it and will have to be cut to use that bow.

If your going to cut a case to use the bow, do the 3700, you need all the power you can get to pull that bow.

yes i remember you letting me know that the case needs to be notched as well, that clutch cover is factory (notched from the factory) i also have the Craftsman 3.7 i could use. My wife is happy!!.

also the 3700 had two trigger springs on it when i took it off. weird what you find on saws.

 

[fossil]

any idea what the bore diameter is on a Poulan Pro 375? I have a frankensaw with a 375 clutch cover and chrome cylinder, I just want to verify what it is. It has a red Canadian Sears 3.4 recoil on it.

375 1.875" (same as 3700 I believe)

385, 395 1.935"

Maybe that red 3.4 is really a 3.7

 

[Acornhill]

Model 91's

I have two model 91's I am working on, can anyone tell me anything about them? I know they are the biggest Poulan made but do anyone have one of these saws running? They both turn over but feel like the rod bearing is bad. I will be breaking them down this week.

 

[fossil]

I also checked my black Sears best 3.3 and it has chrome piston and thick rings with the lower one missing.....It has great compression and starts and runs good. I don't know how it can do that. Do you know if rings are still available for it?

If that is the same as a Poulan 3300, yes the rings are available on e-bay. I didn't check to see if Poulan still carried them

 

[Flintknapper]

I'm thinking you wouldn't be able to tell any difference in a 30" with skip and a 32" with full comp!
I wouldn't be a-skeered to put the 32" and full comp on it, if it were mine. I wouldn't want to use that combo for all day every day use but for an occasional 20-25 cuts I don't think it would hurt at all.


Mike

Might try it with a full comp first, can always get a 'skip' if I need to. I will continue to use the 24" bar most of the time....as most of what I cut is less than that and I like the balance.

I find myself having to be a little careful not to 'over-rev' the engine when first entering the wood. After I am in the cut pretty good....I can put some pressure on the bar/chain and all sounds good.

It has more than enough power to pull a 24".

Thanks...for all replys, I know you guys have more experience with longer bars and bigger timber than I normally cut.

Flint.

 

[Flintknapper]

New question S25DA

Had a big dead pine blow down across one of the ranch roads today, but just the top of it needed to be cut up.

I noticed when I turned the saw on its side (for very long) it seems to lean out (race) then stumble. I am thinking I would like to replace the crank seals (possible cause) if for no other reason...they are old!

Has anyone successfully replaced them without removing the crank? I was able to do that with my 4900 but the seals on the 25 are much smaller and look difficult to remove without nicking the crankshaft.

Also want to replace the fuel line while I am in there. Looks like a nightmare to do, the way it is routed?

Thank you in advance.

Flint.

 

[OhioGregg]

Check the 3400 label engine displacement. The saw is a 3700

Tim, You Canadians sure know how complicate things and make identification tough. :hmm3grin2orange:
Nik, (Fatguy) I think has a 4000 that was labeled as 3400 in Canada. You guys north of the border must call every Poulan a 3400. LOL


Gregg,

 

[Modifiedmark]

Had a big dead pine blow down across one of the ranch roads today, but just the top of it needed to be cut up.

I noticed when I turned the saw on its side (for very long) it seems to lean out (race) then stumble. I am thinking I would like to replace the crank seals (possible cause) if for no other reason...they are old!

Has anyone successfully replaced them without removing the crank? I was able to do that with my 4900 but the seals on the 25 are much smaller and look difficult to remove without nicking the crankshaft.

Also want to replace the fuel line while I am in there. Looks like a nightmare to do, the way it is routed?

Thank you in advance.

Flint.

I got a very small screwdriver that I bent the end on and slide it between the crank and seal to pull them out. Those cranks are harder then the cheap screwdriver and I have not scratched one yet.

Fuel line is a piece of cake, I did a how to on it a while back but can't find it right now. Someone else will probably post it soon though.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Had a big dead pine blow down across one of the ranch roads today, but just the top of it needed to be cut up.

I noticed when I turned the saw on its side (for very long) it seems to lean out (race) then stumble. I am thinking I would like to replace the crank seals (possible cause) if for no other reason...they are old!

Has anyone successfully replaced them without removing the crank? I was able to do that with my 4900 but the seals on the 25 are much smaller and look difficult to remove without nicking the crankshaft.

Also want to replace the fuel line while I am in there. Looks like a nightmare to do, the way it is routed?

Thank you in advance.

Flint.

There's a write up on the fuel line installation, just use the search feature. I've replaced several this year, it's not that bad.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Got my 2300CVA back up and going now, and its not throwing chains anymore. I think alot of it was the little tiny control tip on the bar.

Run about a 1/2 tank though it and its good to go now, and even cut a 26-28" piece of oak in two for the spltter with it. It runs like a champ.

I remembered to photo the weight on it this time. Little heavier then the regular Micros, but the antivibe is nice and the 38cc pulls good.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Found it.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/156736.htm

 

[Flintknapper]

Found it.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/156736.htm

Thanks Mark!

Wasn't trying to get you to MY work for me (search)...I just didn't there was already a 'how to' on it.

Thanks again for your time and help.

Flint.

 

[nthums1]

This China made grinder works pretty well. I did buy some Italian made grind wheels from Bailey's. Heard some folks had the Chinese wheels fly apart. So thought I wouldn't chance them. The 3/16" wheel is the one you use for standard 3/8 chain. The 1/8" wheel is what you need for the smaller 3/8 LP chain. This grinder will do the "tilt" if you want to. I have done it both ways, can't tell hoot of difference. LOL

Gregg,

Bailey's is apparently out of stock on that one. After much effort, since it is not listed under current grinders, I managed to get it to come up. Baileys has a review comparing it to the non-Chinese 511ax. They pretty much nixed it giving a long list of issues compared to the Italian one. I did find some of them listed at other places with various paint schemes and brand names. Cheapest was about $170. Even found a Y-tube showing trick to reverse motor for controlling feathering of the grind. Seemed like they were spinning the wheel for the same direction as filing a tooth.
A thought occurred to me about excess heat of grinding, if that occurs. From my days of grinding long ago, if I remember correctly, the most heat is at the last (as the wheel spins) part of the object in contact with wheel. And since that is often the thinnest point if making a blade, it being thinner makes it harder to move heat away from and thus the bluing.
Would it be better if the wheel was spinning so it's first contact with tooth is at the point of the chisel?

 

[nthums1]

Found it.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/156736.htm

Now that is one I'd want "forever" fuel line on.

 

[fossil]

Tim, You Canadians sure know how complicate things and make identification tough. :hmm3grin2orange:
Nik, (Fatguy) I think has a 4000 that was labeled as 3400 in Canada. You guys north of the border must call every Poulan a 3400. LOL


Gregg,

The 4000 was a 3400XP and was orange in color. I would love to find one of those. Apparently many were sold.
My guess on the 3400 that is a 3700 was that they had these labels printed up to cover orders if correct stock was not available.
The saw itself has yellow paint under the green which would have meant it was to be branded as something else like a Canadian Tire saw.
You'll notice the labels says "Printed in Canada" which refers only to the label.