Nik's Poulan Thread

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Bob, please give my method a try. If you don't want to why don't you just bring all that wasted money spent on busting up seals and we will go out for a night on the down and "donate" that money to some girls working there way though collage. One dollar at a time... :rock:
After a week in Vermont I'm being a good guy. Found out as I get older my recovery time after drinking is much longer. BTW Mark, what did you use to champher the boss? A file or a mechanical approach like a dremel with carbide bit. Would have been much easier if I used your approach prior to assembling the case halves.
 
After a week in Vermont I'm being a good guy. Found out as I get older my recovery time after drinking is much longer. BTW Mark, what did you use to champher the boss? A file or a mechanical approach like a dremel with carbide bit. Would have been much easier if I used your approach prior to assembling the case halves.


If there apart I use a round stone in a drill to bevel them.

If the saw is already all together and I just need to replace a seal, I just cut the bevel with my pocket knife.:laugh:

I swear to god, I do. I have Chris for a witness as well. I said before we should have made a video of it.:givebeer:
 
If there apart I use a round stone in a drill to bevel them.

If the saw is already all together and I just need to replace a seal, I just cut the bevel with my pocket knife.:laugh:

I swear to god, I do. I have Chris for a witness as well. I said before we should have made a video of it.:givebeer:
Pocketknife. Material is that soft?
 
I'm surprised that the manual oilers on all your saws are putting out very little oil.
If there is an issue with oil supply your auto oilers will not put any out. You need to pull the oilers off and check the hose in the tank and the screen to make sure the hose is not torn or has a hole in it or broken off. You also need the clean the system out and make sure the holes are all open, including the impulse hole into the crank case.
I know the manual oilers are not prone to failure at least in the 7 or so I have but the "O" ring(s) can give up.
As far as diaphragm material goes; a bunch of us got together and split some diaphragm material some time ago. The minimum order was $150 + shipping which gave us each a square foot of material. I can't help you there as I have given quite a bit of mine away and I would like to keep what I have left. I contacted Joe at Sugar Creek Supply and asked if he was going to try and make some and he said it was in his future plans so there is a possibility there that he may have done so.
Yep wierd aint it, I have one that will shoot the oil right out. I did find I had one that the pickup line was broke right at the screen.
 
Thank You Fossil for the explanation. And thanks to all for the replies. Sure had to do some re-tuneing for 43 degrees here today. They dont run the same as when it`s zero out.
 
If there apart I use a round stone in a drill to bevel them.

If the saw is already all together and I just need to replace a seal, I just cut the bevel with my pocket knife.:laugh:

I swear to god, I do. I have Chris for a witness as well. I said before we should have made a video of it.:givebeer:

I have replaced the seals in my 395 and 3700's but have never done a 3400. I never had a problem that I can remember getting the seals in.
 
I found that the National seal 253747 for the 3400 has a smidgen smaller OD than Oem. Has anyone used them and didn't have a leak. Did you use some sealant around the outer edge?

I have used quite a few on Poulans and Homelites. All is well and vacuum test perfectly.
I would add that for the first time I used 4 SKF 6119's recently and I found they fit about the same as the Nationals. I couldn't see any difference.
I didn't add any sealer on either.
 
Don't usually post here but check this lil gem that came in for fuel lines!
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