Nik's Poulan Thread

[jerry quinn]

All good info provided above. The only other thing I would pay attention to is the oilier. It`s a diaphragm pump that runs off a impulse from the crankcase. I seem to have a lot of trouble with them. There is no more replacement diaphragms. I buy parts saws for the pumps. Other than that maybe crank seals.

 

[jerry quinn]

Picked this up yesterday for $20.

View attachment 350991 View attachment 350992 View attachment 350993

Nice dayton, And already with a muffler mod. I have never seen a dayton in person just pics.

 

[3000 FPS]

pix

Got it.

 

[fossil]

Thanks Tim, I've got loads of Tygon tubing for my work, I guess there's no moulded fuel lines, just tube, I'd guess the duck bill valve is a non return thing to let air in, but not out?

Yes.
PN 530026119. It goes on the little plastic fitting, a piece of Tygon on the other end and the assembly is pulled up through the rear tank hole which has a larger diameter. The line and fitting are pulled into the hole. Most use 3/16" OD X 1/8" ID for both lines.
If you want a repair manual, PM me ("start a conversation") your e-mail address and I will send it to you.

 

[s sidewall]

Nice saw, all I see around here are the plastic saws. Anyone used what I call the two ply yellow fuel line, hate it, liner comes apart and won't let fuel flow from my experience with it. No fun replacing fuel lines twice.


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[s sidewall]

Was told it was Tygon, should have known better when I didn't see it printed on the line.

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[AlexTheGrater]

Yes.
PN 530026119. It goes on the little plastic fitting, a piece of Tygon on the other end and the assembly is pulled up through the rear tank hole which has a larger diameter. The line and fitting are pulled into the hole. Most use 3/16" OD X 1/8" ID for both lines.
If you want a repair manual, PM me ("start a conversation") your e-mail address and I will send it to you.

Thanks, that'll be great..

 

[AlexTheGrater]

All good info provided above. The only other thing I would pay attention to is the oilier. It`s a diaphragm pump that runs off a impulse from the crankcase. I seem to have a lot of trouble with them. There is no more replacement diaphragms. I buy parts saws for the pumps. Other than that maybe crank seals.

Hi Jerry, presumably the manual oiler will still work, I've no heavy duty expectations of the saw?

 

[jerry quinn]

Yes it will.

Hi Jerry, presumably the manual oiler will still work, I've no heavy duty expectations of the saw?

 

[FATGUY]

Hey guys, it's been a while, hope you're all doing well. I know this isn't the place for this but I'm hoping it slips under the radar. I'm selling my Snellerized CV4000 to raise some money for disaster relief in Serbia. The majority of my mothers family still lives there. It doesn't get much media coverage here, Justin Beiber makes for better news. Anyhow, I'm thinking of putting it on Ebay but I thought I'd post it here first for a while. If anyone's interested, let me know. The saw has a new (at time of build) OEM piston w/pop-up I machined. Brad massaged the cylinder and intake and Modified Mark made the cool ass muffler. It has the Canadian style brake (Mike just loves it), Gregg made the decals, and I polished and black oxided a 18" windsor speed tip (w/new tip) with Stihl full chisel chain. The only thing wrong with it is the auto oiler doesn't seem to work, the over ride works like a charm though. I'll eat the shipping on the saw. Thanks guys. Either shoot me a message here, or [email protected].

 

[barneyrb]

Hey guys, it's been a while, hope you're all doing well. I know this isn't the place for this but I'm hoping it slips under the radar. I'm selling my Snellerized CV4000 to raise some money for disaster relief in Serbia. The majority of my mothers family still lives there. It doesn't get much media coverage here, Justin Beiber makes for better news. Anyhow, I'm thinking of putting it on Ebay but I thought I'd post it here first for a while. If anyone's interested, let me know. The saw has a new (at time of build) OEM piston w/pop-up I machined. Brad massaged the cylinder and intake and Modified Mark made the cool ass muffler. It has the Canadian style brake (Mike just loves it), Gregg made the decals, and I polished and black oxided a 18" windsor speed tip (w/new tip) with Stihl full chisel chain. The only thing wrong with it is the auto oiler doesn't seem to work, the over ride works like a charm though. I'll eat the shipping on the saw. Thanks guys. Either shoot me a message here, or [email protected].

Nik, if this the red one you built from scratch a few years ago? If it is say it ain't so......man it is a nice saw....

 

[FATGUY]

It's not the one I built for my dad, it's the green one that I/we built as my personal toy.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

New piston kit put in the PP365 and ordered all 4 av's for my dads 3300 he bought new in 93 I think. Lucky for him I have a few NLA new intake boots.

Pic of 2 ring P is the 3300.

 

[fossil]

Maybe a new one for you guys. My 295 was running great. A few days after I last used it I took it over to my daughter's house to trim a few branches and it wouldn't start.
It is getting fuel, good spark, (I changed the plug in case it was failing under pressure). I couldn't even get it to burp with a gas feed through the carb. I took the starter cover off today to see if the flywheel key was sheared. I couldn't see a key way but it looked like the firing timing was around 40 deg before TDC.
I pulled the flywheel and it looks like the aluminum key is cast into the flywheel and it sheared off. I kind off lined things up as best as I could and it is a bit advanced now but runs well. I had to bump the idle speed up and lean out the high side mixture.
Any of you guys come across this before?

Oh, and I've been busting my butt collecting, loading, unloading, cutting, splitting and stacking next winter's firewood. I finally got some help from someone in the family.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

365 done

 

[joe25DA]

I dont think I remember That saw nik.

 

[3000 FPS]

Maybe a new one for you guys. My 295 was running great. A few days after I last used it I took it over to my daughter's house to trim a few branches and it wouldn't start.
It is getting fuel, good spark, (I changed the plug in case it was failing under pressure). I couldn't even get it to burp with a gas feed through the carb. I took the starter cover off today to see if the flywheel key was sheared. I couldn't see a key way but it looked like the firing timing was around 40 deg before TDC.
I pulled the flywheel and it looks like the aluminum key is cast into the flywheel and it sheared off. I kind off lined things up as best as I could and it is a bit advanced now but runs well. I had to bump the idle speed up and lean out the high side mixture.
Any of you guys come across this before?

Oh, and I've been busting my butt collecting, loading, unloading, cutting, splitting and stacking next winter's firewood. I finally got some help from someone in the family.

Tim I have several 295's and your right the key way is cast into the fly wheel. I have not seen one sheered off but I have ground away at them before so that I could advance the timing. They run good when advanced so your in good company.

 

[fossil]

I do have a compressor but not sure how to use it to check pressure. I'm keeping an eye out for the PA sale.
Actually, thinking more about it, the 2300 only has two cylinder bolts so raising the comp may not be such a great idea. These run pretty well in stock form.

Appreciate the input as always.

Lee

Hi Lee,

Here's what I made up to test pressure. It's basically a pressure gauge, in a 1/4" NPT "T" fitting with a barb fitting on the output side and a valve with an air line fitting on the input side.
The barb on the output side fits the vinyl hose that comes with the vacuum brake bleeder kit from Princess auto. You might see Stephen C (he likes to hang out in princess places I heard) there so say hello to him.

Since most of the saws I have don't have impulse lines, which is the easiest hook up for the test, I apply pressure and vacuum through the spark plug hole.

There is a fitting that Husqvarna has that is made for this application PN 503844002 that I need to get.
For now, I knocked the center out of a spark plug and pulled a rubber tire valve stem through the plug. I put an "O" ring on the plug to seal it to the spark plug hole and clamped a piece of vinyl hose on the tire valve. The Schrader valve has been removed. I use a pair of needle nose pliers to tighten down the assembly.

Pull your muffler off and take a piece of inner tube or some suitable rubber and use it to replace the gasket behind the muffler, That should seal the muffler opening off.
If the carb can be backed off enough to slide a piece of inner tube between the carb and the adaptor to seal that off just tighten the carb down. If not, you will have to pull the carb and seal the opening. I find it easiest if I have to pull the carb to punch holes on the rubber and feed the carb screws through it and then bolt the carb back up. Same for the muffler.
You can also just make plates from steel or aluminum for the exhaust port and carb adaptor if you prefer not to use the muffler and carb as clamps.
If there is an impulse opening for an oil pump like the 3400 - 4000 and others, you will need to seal that off as well.

I carefully apply 7 pounds of air pressure (make sure your compressor regulator is down low) to the hose and then shut the valve off. I'm not sure what 100 PSI air would do to the saw. It should hold 7 lbs pressure for at least 20 seconds.
Turn the flywheel over slowly a few times which may show up a seal leak

I do the same with the vacuum check. Start with 7 lbs vacuum. The saw should not allow enough air to leak in so the vacuum drops below 4.25 lbs for in 20 seconds.
These figures are from a Stihl manual.
I generally find that pressure will hold for a long time and that vacuum will leak down over a shorter period of time.
If the saw leaks under pressure, listen for the leak or spray soapy water around potential leak areas.
Soapy water will also work to pinpoint vacuum leaks.

Here's a pic of the pressure tester

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

You can also use the male thread version of the barb fitting with an intake plate by simply drilling and tapping the correct NPT size through the plate(s) for varying intake applications where the impulse passage would otherwise be blocked (similar to the Husky style intake blocks). Seal the fitting into the intake block, drill holes for the carb bolts, grab a piece of old innertube and test away. Aluminum is obviously the easiest to shape and tap. And if you do a lot of vac/pressure testing, the MityVac 8500 is the way to go and will pay for itself with the first leak you find, IMHO.

 

[leecopland]

View attachment 351607

Hi Lee,

Here's what I made up to test pressure. It's basically a pressure gauge, in a 1/4" NPT "T" fitting with a barb fitting on the output side and a valve with an air line fitting on the input side.
The barb on the output side fits the vinyl hose that comes with the vacuum brake bleeder kit from Princess auto. You might see Stephen C (he likes to hang out in princess places I heard) there so say hello to him.

Since most of the saws I have don't have impulse lines, which is the easiest hook up for the test, I apply pressure and vacuum through the spark plug hole.

There is a fitting that Husqvarna has that is made for this application PN 503844002 that I need to get.
For now, I knocked the center out of a spark plug and pulled a rubber tire valve stem through the plug. I put an "O" ring on the plug to seal it to the spark plug hole and clamped a piece of vinyl hose on the tire valve. The Schrader valve has been removed. I use a pair of needle nose pliers to tighten down the assembly.

Pull your muffler off and take a piece of inner tube or some suitable rubber and use it to replace the gasket behind the muffler, That should seal the muffler opening off.
If the carb can be backed off enough to slide a piece of inner tube between the carb and the adaptor to seal that off just tighten the carb down. If not, you will have to pull the carb and seal the opening. I find it easiest if I have to pull the carb to punch holes on the rubber and feed the carb screws through it and then bolt the carb back up. Same for the muffler.
You can also just make plates from steel or aluminum for the exhaust port and carb adaptor if you prefer not to use the muffler and carb as clamps.
If there is an impulse opening for an oil pump like the 3400 - 4000 and others, you will need to seal that off as well.

I carefully apply 7 pounds of air pressure (make sure your compressor regulator is down low) to the hose and then shut the valve off. I'm not sure what 100 PSI air would do to the saw. It should hold 7 lbs pressure for at least 20 seconds.
Turn the flywheel over slowly a few times which may show up a seal leak

I do the same with the vacuum check. Start with 7 lbs vacuum. The saw should not allow enough air to leak in so the vacuum drops below 4.25 lbs for in 20 seconds.
These figures are from a Stihl manual.
I generally find that pressure will hold for a long time and that vacuum will leak down over a shorter period of time.
If the saw leaks under pressure, listen for the leak or spray soapy water around potential leak areas.
Soapy water will also work to pinpoint vacuum leaks.

Here's a pic of the pressure tester

Many thanks Tim'