Nik's Poulan Thread

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I haven't bought a saw in a long time................... :popcorn:

I had not bought one all week. Had 5 NOS clearing bows dropped off this morning and just made a deal on a 100 cc saw this evening.

Oops, I forgot about the Dayton badged 3400 I had someone pick up earlier this week.
 
oh my, that is nice.
i took the 8500 down a little today, it has never been apart for sure (it truly is a time capsule) the clutch bearing was froze up on it from sitting on the shelf but i fixed that. That is the original 404 bar and Poulan chain as well.
 
Let me run this by y'all guys, take 1 gallon gas blend 1 quart of water, let it sit 1 week, drain off the gas and measure the water you got left. Should be more water than that you started out with. Would not this be e-10 free gas then.

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I
Let me run this by y'all guys, take 1 gallon gas blend 1 quart of water, let it sit 1 week, drain off the gas and measure the water you got left. Should be more water than that you started out with. Would not this be e-10 free gas then.

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I believe that is the theory. I have never tried it but have read where some have done it. I think I also read it drops the octane level too.
 
I had not bought one all week. Had 5 NOS clearing bows dropped off this morning and just made a deal on a 100 cc saw this evening.

Oops, I forgot about the Dayton badged 3400 I had someone pick up earlier this week.
You Sir, should seek counciling. Or not. I havent bought one in six weeks. And then it was just a little 1969 craftsman made by Orline.
 
Some are and some aren't.
I've seen them both ways.
Mike

OK, easy question for all the Poulan experts here.

What are the differences between the #5300 23485 & the #5300 29391 piston rings? Both
are for the 1.500" diameter cylinder bores. The former are used in the S25 & S25CVA, and the
latter in the S25DA & CV.

The S25DA piston #5300 69298 has no pinned rings, thus the rings "float" around the piston, and
the exhaust port has two wide bridges to help support the rings from snagging in the port.
 
I believe one has angled tips ends and the other has straight ends tips

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I believe one has angled tips ends and the other has straight ends tips. Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Thanks, that's very plausible, as I'll bet the early Super 25 series saws had pinned rings.

The "Greek" is listing/selling the same butt ended rings for both part numbers, but you can
easily use a Dremel grinder to profile the tip ends to match the pin, if you have the early pinned piston.
Cast iron rings are really soft, and it goes fast when using Homey SXLAO rings to make Poulan 306 piston rings.
 
That slotted feature is the check valve to pressurize the oil tank. It has a duckbill valve in it that often goes south. It allows crankcase pressure into the oil tank via a passage but won't let it when the piston goes up.

as far as the seals go, drill a small hole in the metal frame of the seal and screw in a drywall screw. Grab the end of the screw with vice grips and give the grips a little smack upwards and the seal should pop right out.

Hi Tim,

I'm worried about the cylinder base gasket (on the 2300) as I seem to see fuel leaking out through there. And that would explain a suspected air leak. What about leaving the base gasket off to increase comp? If so would I just use a sealer?
 
Hi Tim,

I'm worried about the cylinder base gasket (on the 2300) as I seem to see fuel leaking out through there. And that would explain a suspected air leak. What about leaving the base gasket off to increase comp? If so would I just use a sealer?

You would have to check the squish on that saw to make sure you have enough clearance between the piston and cylinder.
Pull the cylinder and remove what's left of the base gasket, put some soft solder on the piston crown held on with grease. Place the solder at the points where the wrist pin is to eliminate any rocking of the piston. Bolt the cylinder down and roll the piston over on the solder. Pull the jug and measure the thickness of the crushed solder. I think .020 is the min you would want. If the saw has needle crank bearings maybe .025 min but that's a guess on my part.
If it's OK, I have used Motoseal which is available from Canadian Tire for about $9 + tax.
You need to get a vacuum bleeder to check vacuum. You could also get a cheap compressor if you don't have one to check pressure.
I'll keep my eye open at Princess auto to see if the bleeders go on sale.
 
You would have to check the squish on that saw to make sure you have enough clearance between the piston and cylinder.
Pull the cylinder and remove what's left of the base gasket, put some soft solder on the piston crown held on with grease. Place the solder at the points where the wrist pin is to eliminate any rocking of the piston. Bolt the cylinder down and roll the piston over on the solder. Pull the jug and measure the thickness of the crushed solder. I think .020 is the min you would want. If the saw has needle crank bearings maybe .025 min but that's a guess on my part.
If it's OK, I have used Motoseal which is available from Canadian Tire for about $9 + tax.
You need to get a vacuum bleeder to check vacuum. You could also get a cheap compressor if you don't have one to check pressure.
I'll keep my eye open at Princess auto to see if the bleeders go on sale.


I do have a compressor but not sure how to use it to check pressure. I'm keeping an eye out for the PA sale.
Actually, thinking more about it, the 2300 only has two cylinder bolts so raising the comp may not be such a great idea. These run pretty well in stock form.

Appreciate the input as always.

Lee
 
I do have a compressor but not sure how to use it to check pressure. I'm keeping an eye out for the PA sale.
Actually, thinking more about it, the 2300 only has two cylinder bolts so raising the comp may not be such a great idea. These run pretty well in stock form.

Appreciate the input as always.

Lee
I ditched the gasket on my micro... had apart to weld case, so far, so good... also 2 bolt jug. time will tell...
 
I do have a compressor but not sure how to use it to check pressure. I'm keeping an eye out for the PA sale.
Actually, thinking more about it, the 2300 only has two cylinder bolts so raising the comp may not be such a great idea. These run pretty well in stock form.

Appreciate the input as always.

Lee

I removed the base gasket in my Poulan 2000 about 4 years ago. It is only a 2 bolt jug also. It did not raise the compression enough to be concerned about. I also widened the ports alittle and did a muffler mod to it. It runs great and I have had no problems.
 
I do have a compressor but not sure how to use it to check pressure. I'm keeping an eye out for the PA sale.
Actually, thinking more about it, the 2300 only has two cylinder bolts so raising the comp may not be such a great idea. These run pretty well in stock form.

Appreciate the input as always.

Lee

I'll take a few pics of what I do for the pressure check when I have some time. It's an easy set up that you can do pretty cheaply. It's a great way to find air leaks except for crank seals unless they are really bad.
 

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