Nik's Poulan Thread

[slcmechanic]

I posted in another thread but it was old and I'm not sure anyone would see it. I have a Poulan Model 54 that I just got running. I have been using a drill to start it because i cant get the pull start to catch. I think I may have put the recoil together wrong. I've tried every way there is of assembling it that looks right and still no luck. It will randomly catch sometimes now but only for one pull. If anyone has any ideas on what it could be i would really appreciate it.

 

[fossil]

Here's a video I found on fixing a Fairbanks Morse starter. It may help get it sorted out.



Look here as well. Some experienced old saw lovers on this thread about FM starters.

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...fairbanks-morse-recoil-starters-please.62966/

 

[Hoggwood]

My $0.02, from my experience with Stihl saws.

Make sure to sharpen the shoe edge that bites into the cup. Around a 60 degree angle seemed to work. Don't go crazy or you will be needing to flip the shoes and grind a new edge. The shoes should come off the lever fairly easily after the spring retainer clips are removed. As well, make darn certain the washers supporting the shoe lever are absolutely oil/grease free. I found it helped to roughen up the teflon washers and clean them well with carb cleaner. I am not sure if these type of washers are present on the 54 assembly. To successfully torque the lever assembly you need a high (static) coefficienct of friction between the washer/lever mating surfaces. If not, they won't drive the shoes into the cup/drum hard enough and you will be pulling nothing.

When you go to start the saw, pull like you mean it, without hesitation. It should grab right away if things are ideal.

 

[s sidewall]

I wished Stihl had an electric start, arm gets tire trying to crank my dads, told him time for a major tuneup, filters, plug, fuel line and carb rebuild. Had it running and starting great til it sat for three hours, wore my arm out. Got his old wood shark running great. Imagine fine saw dust in the carb clogging needle vale screen, may need a new fuel filter for that problem.

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile, Steve

 

[B-N]

I just posted this in the eBay thread, bit thought it might be worthwhile to post it here too.

Poulan 2800 and 3000, NOS, $275 for the 2800, $300 for the 3000.

http://m.kijiji.ca/power-tool/city-...1084193173&ck=CK&from=Search&ts=1435769518540

http://m.kijiji.ca/power-tool/city-...1084194031&ck=CK&from=Search&ts=1435769518540

 

[Chris J.]

Anybody here win the PP325 (re-badged Partner 5000+, I think) on eBay?

 

[hotshot]

Its an old but in great shape Robin brush cutter. Poulan never made one like this, made in Japan. Crappy design carb.

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile, Steve

That's good to know.

The only carb that's ever kicked my azz was a corroded up ZAMA RB-K93 rotary type that was on a
green Echo GT225 weed whip. Multiple hot baths through an ultrasonic still would not get it to flow.

It would sit & idle all day long.

I ate the carb kit cost & the customer bought the new carb.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

finally got my second 3400 project saw running with a lot of parts help from guys on here. naturally a new problem has reared its ugly head. the lip of the fuel tank where the cap screws in has suddenly developed a small split. since it has internal threads i'm thinking i'll wrap it with couple go rounds of small gauge wire after gluing.

question is, what kind of glue will withstand fuel?
thanks, jerry

 

[hotshot]

Common issue, you'll need a $25 replacement tank.

I have tried plastic welding, hot glue, epoxy etc. & nothing works because it's a chitty designed female type thread joint.

Just like the threaded PVC female fittings, they should be avoided at all costs when you lay out piping.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

that's not the answer I wanted. lol
thanks much

 

[s sidewall]

I had to bend the fuel needle valve lever almost all the way down to get a somewhat wot and screw the idle screw almost all the way in. It has no mid range, nothing but spudder. Hate to buy a carb at $50+, not counting shipping. I've cleaned it 5x and still the same as you said.

Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile, Steve

 

[redunshee]

that's not the answer I wanted. lol
thanks much

Got one. Will mail Monday.

 

[redunshee]

Anybody here win the PP325 (re-badged Partner 5000+, I think) on eBay?

Not me. I saw it but already have one. Nice saws.

 

[hotshot]

Bobs the man!

 

[ILikesEmGreen]

3300, 20" B&C... Cranks and runs great. What would you guys give for it? Ballpark figure....

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Got one. Will mail Monday.

Bob, you are truly the man. Thanks much

 

[Chris J.]

3300, 20" B&C... Cranks and runs great. What would you guys give for it? Ballpark figure....

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

I'm interested in reading the replies. My two are badged as Craftsman 3.3 and didn't arrive as complete runners.

 

[Chris J.]

Not me. I saw it but already have one. Nice saws.

I always check out Poulan & Craftsman saws in the pawn shops.

One these days I'm going to get a PP325 and a PP655BP dirt cheap..........

 

[redunshee]

3300, 20" B&C... Cranks and runs great. What would you guys give for it? Ballpark figure....

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

Pretty good saws, larger variant of the 2700,2800 and 3000. In good shape $125 would be a real good price. Many prefer the newer 3450. About the same size.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Anybody here win the PP325 (re-badged Partner 5000+, I think) on eBay?

Seen that one and is a partner 5500. It went right on the money in the mid hundred range and had the newer clutch cover added.

I have sold 2. Nicest one was in the $2hundred range. Other nice runner but not as good looking thinking just under 2hundred.