how many of you guys honestly check and or change your drum or rim sprockets on your saws when needed? I have been doing so regularly lately as well as the chain. Makes a huge difference in cutting and maintenance free saw performance.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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redunshee
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Unfortunately Poulan went thru several variations of their "Poulan green". I've found that Dodge Sublime Green is very close on older saws. Believe it's 1972 Dodge. Problem is you have to get it blended, though I have seen it ready to go in cans if you use a sprayer. Believe Eastwood has it.
Hey Mark,don't know how you came up with a NOS 3800 but that is sweeeet!!
Does anyone know the torque specs for the 3800 cylinder bolts?
Does anyone know the torque specs for the 3800 cylinder bolts?
redunshee
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Should have figured you would have a can of old Poulan paint.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
I typically don't use a torque wrench. I simply snug them tight by hand. Never had an issue.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Me too, just hand tight.
Dan, like they said, just torque em till your wrist clicks!
That was in the haul from the auction Chris and I went to with R Delawter last year.
I remember ordering that same paint from Poulan when I worked in that shop back in 80 or so.
Like we know the replacement parts came in gray primer so we painted the new parts before we put them on the customers saws.
Coil anyone?
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I sure don't want that green one in the upper left corner. That was on both of my PP475's and was rev limited to 10K rpm. Those are actually cut off saw coils.
ILikesEmGreen
Another crazy Poulan Fan
I try and stay away from spur sprockets whenever possible and economical. I changed out 3 nearly new factory spur sprockets on CTC 3400's just because. It makes swapping bars, pitches and chains amongst saws easier. It may just be my perception, but my spur sprockets tend to develop tension variations as I rotate the chain by hand. Could be the spur wear and/or the sprocket tip. Dunno. Then there is the issue of a fixed versus floating drive mechanism. With the spur saws, I inevitably match a chain to the saw and avoid swapping. Makes for stocking more chains, so it seems. Either way, a fellow should be changing those spurs or rims when they reach their wear tolerance. I've seen Spurs with "W"'s worn into them that reach far into the links. When the ideal radii of the matching sprocket and tip get that far out of line, it can't be good. Regardless, longevity of either set up starts with a regularly and properly adjusted chain, tight guide rails and a healthy and topped up oiler.
A guy that I know that comes across saws sometimes gave me this killer big cc monster today. Piston looks good it has a few minor scratches. Although not sure on intake side as the air-filter is missing half the flocking so I will haver to compression test it. What is normal running compression range for these?
I think it has a killer case that should clean up nice. Never seen such a little one like this before.
Sent from somewhere
I think it has a killer case that should clean up nice. Never seen such a little one like this before.
Sent from somewhere
Shane you have nice example of a historically ground breaking piece of history there. It's been said that when Poulan introduced that model XX, it did to the chainsaw world what the transistor radio did to the electronics world.
With that said, that design had its growing pains and that model was only produced a few years before giving way to the much improved Micro 25.
If, you plan on getting that saw running and ever running and oiling correctly, it will necessitate a complete bare case tear down to replace the oiler impulse hose and check valve, plus it will need new crank seals.
It's not that hard, its not like working on a mini mac as long as you have a understanding on how that oiler system operates as well as a couple procedures needed for tear down and reassembly.
If you want send me a pm with your email and I can help you with a few things for it.
With that said, that design had its growing pains and that model was only produced a few years before giving way to the much improved Micro 25.
If, you plan on getting that saw running and ever running and oiling correctly, it will necessitate a complete bare case tear down to replace the oiler impulse hose and check valve, plus it will need new crank seals.
It's not that hard, its not like working on a mini mac as long as you have a understanding on how that oiler system operates as well as a couple procedures needed for tear down and reassembly.
If you want send me a pm with your email and I can help you with a few things for it.
Thanks on that Mark. When I get to it I will send you a message. It won't be over night. It appears to have the original bar on it from what I can tell it was used very little. I wish I knew what the story was on the saw itself from the owner.
Sent from somewhere
Sent from somewhere
A guy that I know that comes across saws sometimes gave me this killer big cc monster today. Piston looks good it has a few minor scratches. Although not sure on intake side as the air-filter is missing half the flocking so I will haver to compression test it. What is normal running compression range for these?
I think it has a killer case that should clean up nice. Never seen such a little one like this before.
Sent from somewhere
The carrying case with XX is a new one for me. Thanks for sharing pic.
I owned 2 XX and cut with one. Neat little saws. One I had to do points etc in when they went bad.
Here is a IPL http://www.ereplacementparts.com/poulan-gas-chainsaw-parts-c-16962_17147_17168.html
