Nik's Poulan Thread

[blk05crew]

I agree 100% with echoshawn!!!! I have done some milling on & off. I use a Husky 385xp (85cc). I would not want to use anything smaller!! Ain't saying it can't be done, it would be a chore. People don't realize just how much power, oiling capability, heat stress etc. involved with long extended cuts with a chainsaw. Thats even more so when milling hard woods. Here is a pic or two of my out fit. I was milling square cants from Basswood for one of our GTG's .

Gregg,

Yeah we use a Husky 2100 for milling pine for benches and other things. Nice set up Gregg!

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I would say had about 15+ bonfires today.

Heat got one of the apple trees some when the wind shifted on me.

1 more load to burn once she had burned down again. Then it is beer time.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Was so nice to set back and enjoy some brews after the work was done with a nice sunset and coals.

Last bonfire last night.

 

[s sidewall]

Too hot here for that, already in the 80's with high humidity, feels like summer kicking in early with a 90° forecast for Friday.

Steve

 

[Blisters]

Jesus Christ, daughter, wife, saws, fire, diet mtn dew, tea. Yup in that order! ...and living redneck!

 

[Blisters]

Too hot here for that, already in the 80's with high humidity, feels like summer kicking in early with a 90° forecast for Friday.

Steve

Yes sir 85 today 87 tomorrow. Eastern NC.

 

[Hoggwood]

Anyone ever need to set crank seals a bit deeper in the pockets in an attempt to cure an idle that hunts around and is slow to return from WOT?

I went and set both seals a further 3/64" (guesstimate) deeper than flush and added an extra thrust washer behind the clutch/sprocket on the 3000. There is quite a bit of axial travel on the crank. I am thinking this may be the cause of the symptoms. Extra washer is keeping the crank from travelling excessively for now. The idle and off throttle come down are better.

In hindsight, perhaps I should have been more diligent and tapped the bearings back when I had the crank/seals out. Maybe the crank's axial motion was pulling on the seals and causing an air leak only when running? Short of that, the saw/carb passes all manner of pressure and vacuum. IDK.

 

[Blisters]

Anyone ever need to set crank seals a bit deeper in the pockets in an attempt to cure an idle that hunts around and is slow to return from WOT?

I went and set both seals a further 3/64" (guesstimate) deeper than flush and added an extra thrust washer behind the clutch/sprocket on the 3000. There is quite a bit of radial travel on the crank. I am thinking this may be the cause of the symptoms. Extra washer is keeping the crank from travelling excessively for now. The idle and off throttle come down are better.

In hindsight, perhaps I should have been more diligent and tapped the bearings back when I had the crank/seals out. Maybe the crank's radial motion was pulling on the seals and causing an air leak only when running? Short of that, the saw/carb passes all manner of pressure and vacuum. IDK.

Could that be the solution? I gotta old saw and a weed.eater does that.

 

[grizz55chev]

Sounds like your bearings are going bad, you should not see any radial movement in your bearings.

 

[Hoggwood]

Sounds like your bearings are going bad, you should not see any radial movement in your bearings.

My mistake. I substituted "axial" for "radial" in my original post now. They are tight along the radius. Shaft drifts laterally when running.

 

[Blisters]

Scored 2 saws yesterday. Craftsman 2.2 (older) and a poulan 3516 with the tooless bar adjustment. Poulan used very little. Craftsman not much more. $90 bucks. That's what I'm talking about!

 

[Blisters]

Need to borrow Jeremiahs sign. 2.2 definitely been screwd with. "That's just not quality redneck right there."

 

[s sidewall]

Hate those tooless adjusters, mess up to much.

Steve

 

[Blisters]

Hate those tooless adjusters, mess up to much.

Steve

Lol I know. It's for cleaning and resale.
I may keep the craftsman.

 

[Just a Guy that cuts wood]

Dose anyone know if this will fit a 5020av or is it easy to modify. I have 3 other saws all 70 drive link chain and the 5020 with factory bar runs 70 DL .
Didn't want to carry a 72 DL for one saw . I could just Pick up factory bar .
Run 3 years, one side is wearing thinner than the other only for about 6 inches

 

[Sty57]

Dose anyone know if this will fit a 5020av or is it easy to modify. I have 3 other saws all 70 drive link chain and the 5020 with factory bar runs 70 DL .
Didn't want to carry a 72 DL for one saw .View attachment 500787 View attachment 500787 View attachment 500788I could just Pick up factory bar .
Run 3 years, one side is wearing thinner than the other only for about 6 inches

If I remember right, the 5020 is a standard small mount Husky.
KO95

 

[Blisters]

If I remember right, the 5020 is a standard small mount Husky.
KO95

Yes sir. Most stilh bars are a different mount. Maybe all of em. I'm not sure.

 

[Blisters]

K

Yes sir. Most stilh bars are a different mount. Maybe all of em. I'm not sure.

K041 works too.

 

[Just a Guy that cuts wood]

I have looked at different sites no one lists bar by mount # . So I guess i will pull the Windsors off one make a template and compare it to 5020. Next problem is never had a power match bar to compare to windsor just going by B/C selector online. Nothing wrong with 38 Craftsman bar just wanted to upgrade to sprocket nose
Buy 2 sets get free shipping. The part # fits the 3800 in the last post

 

[beavis331]

I broke down and had a cad relapse. Please don't tell my wife. I was on ebay the other evening and made an impulse buy. Bought a 3500 poulan. Here is the link.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VERY-NICE-P...gzyN5QM0oKi0211UGsecM%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

How did I do? I would like to get a 20 inch bar for it. What bar mount do they use?