Running compression tests work good for finding sticky valves.
Steve
Steve
Have you tried to spray starting fluid and jump it at the coil? Sorry coming in lateOk here's the thing with the Kohler.went got a compression tester it's got 100 psi. Carb is clean. Got fire at plug. All down to a couple of safety switches that seem to check out OK and a fuel shut off made into the bowl on the carb. Valves? Pushrod?
Starting to think bent pushrod.
Naw ain't tried that. Good idea.Have you tried to spray starting fluid and jump it at the coil? Sorry coming in late
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Should you have any (blow back)through the carb at all? I wouldn't think so but I want to ask to be sure. Also I'm not sure of auto shut off on carb bowl is opening when u turn the key on. Some way to do away with it and use a simple cut off valve?Naw ain't tried that. Good idea.
Should you have any (blow back)through the carb at all? I wouldn't think so but I want to ask to be sure. Also I'm not sure of auto shut off on carb bowl is opening when u turn the key on. Some way to do away with it and use a simple cut off valve?
Should you have any (blow back)through the carb at all? I wouldn't think so but I want to ask to be sure. Also I'm not sure of auto shut off on carb bowl is opening when u turn the key on. Some way to do away with it and use a simple cut off valve?
Yes sir, or maybe even a bent pushrod. This husqvarna mower has been nothing but trouble. I'll never buy another one like this. All started with the deck. That stamped deck is a pice of crap and the lifting linkage design is the worst I have ever seen. I love there saws but there mowers, at least the one I got are crap.Blow back could be a stuck valve.
3800 solid saw.Hi guys.......I got a 3800 saw here on the bench for a friend......doesn't seem to want to hold pressure or vac for more than a few seconds.....do these crank seals cross to something that can be had at a bearing supply house? Don't really know how much he wants to put into this .....so trying to get a idea what the parts situation is like....pardon my ignorance...and thanks for any input.....also any opinions on this model would be helpful....it looks to be fairly low hour and in good overall condition.
Hi guys.......I got a 3800 saw here on the bench for a friend......doesn't seem to want to hold pressure or vac for more than a few seconds.....do these crank seals cross to something that can be had at a bearing supply house? Don't really know how much he wants to put into this .....so trying to get a idea what the parts situation is like....pardon my ignorance...and thanks for any input.....also any opinions on this model would be helpful....it looks to be fairly low hour and in good overall condition.
Great series of saws. Robust and dependable. No 630 Super though.Hi guys.......I got a 3800 saw here on the bench for a friend......doesn't seem to want to hold pressure or vac for more than a few seconds.....do these crank seals cross to something that can be had at a bearing supply house? Don't really know how much he wants to put into this .....so trying to get a idea what the parts situation is like....pardon my ignorance...and thanks for any input.....also any opinions on this model would be helpful....it looks to be fairly low hour and in good overall condition.
Great direction and info.Great series of saws. Robust and dependable. No 630 Super though.
I've used SKF 6119 on both sides. Easy as pie. Carb kits are D10/K10-HDB. Careful with the metering plate. It has a staked-on metering lever. Don't know if they are NLA. Oiler are impulse driven. They can be easily removed and cleaned. Tygon for new pickup is a certain. The old black lines crack and fail. New lines and vent in tank as well. Be mindful of the small plastic nipple in the tank that terminates the duckbill and friction fits the vent line. Carb should tune up at about 1 1/8 L and 1 H.
Seals, fuel filter/kit and a bit of line $20 or so.
Great direction and info.
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Great series of saws. Robust and dependable. No 630 Super though.
I've used SKF 6119 on both sides. Easy as pie. Carb kits are D10/K10-HDB. Careful with the metering plate. It has a staked-on metering lever. Don't know if they are NLA. Oiler are impulse driven. They can be easily removed and cleaned. Tygon for new pickup is a certain. The old black lines crack and fail. New lines and vent in tank as well. Be mindful of the small plastic nipple in the tank that terminates the duckbill and friction fits the vent line. Carb should tune up at about 1 1/8 L and 1 H.
Seals, fuel filter/kit and a bit of line $20 or so.
Thanks for the input....a staked on metering lever? How does that work?......does it have to be removed the change metering valve?
Someone worked on this earlier.....it has a fresh tygon fuel line but the work tag on the handle said it wouldn't pull fuel from the tank.....figured a carb kit for sure but did a pressure vac test just to see what was up...... the big picture. Will have to verify my sealing rigs with some soap and water.....leaked about the same speed on pressure as vac.....usually seals leak more in one direction than the other....
Carb adapter/carb gasket. Impulse there could be leaking and not pulling fuel as well.
Carb has a metering circuit plate and the lever is fixed or staked to the plate. Full kit only comes with the needle.