Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
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I finally got around to putting the 4200 clutch side label on which was kindly donated by rocketnorton. Thanks Pete.
Clear coat is.
PlastiKote Engine Enamel, Product #229 clear
Looks like new!
Clear coat is.
PlastiKote Engine Enamel, Product #229 clear
Looks like new!
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Looks awesome Tim!
does so.
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Green - for those of you that were there last year think of the IN GTG in July.
I will be home tomorrow evening, may get some photos then.
In the meanwhile, it is in this photo.
Mark
I will be home tomorrow evening, may get some photos then.
In the meanwhile, it is in this photo.
Mark
Back a couple pages FWIW: The cast aluminum muffler from a 361 fits the 245 and (likely) the 306.
I have a Dayton 245 type with one.
I have a Dayton 245 type with one.
Blisters
ArboristSite Operative
Is that the same as a 3450?
Nice 5400 Mark.
Recoil on a 245 has me STUMPED! I'm just trying to replace the rope, and I cannot figure out how to get the old rope out! Do you have to pound out the center bearing?
There's a little nail at the end of the rope. That's all I can tell you about it.
That's gonna take some tiny needle nose. 
That's gonna take some tiny needle nose.
I found this post from 2010 by Modified Mark. It should help
Yes I know how to fix a 306A recoil. Hard for me to explain the whole procedure though. Yes the flywheel needs to be removed. Once the flywheel is removed, everything is right there and pretty simple.
The only trick on them is replacing the rope. The original factory rope was secured though a loop in the bottom of the pulley with a pin inserted though the end of the rope.
You will need the right dia rope and I think it was 4.5mm. You also need to cut the end of the rope with heat so it seals the cut end of the rope. You will need a #6 finishing nail to drive through the end of the rope and then cut it off to the right length and thats the tricky part, getting the nail cut so its not too long or too short.
Otherwise you just have to make sure the recoil parts are not wore out to begin with. If you have a decent mechanical ability this is easy. If you don't, get some help from someone who does.
If you run into a snag, let me know and I'll try to help.
Yup, getting the end heat sealed and the nail in the right spot does it.
There is no room for a knot.
There is no room for a knot.
Welp, it took an ice pick, propane torch, and a 1/16" drill bit, but it now has a fresh new rope and seems to operate great. Fwiw, I found it easiest to drive the full-length nail in first (yes, #6 finish nail), to kind of "pre-form" the new rope. Then I pulled the nail out w/ pliers, cut it to length, gently placed the shortened nail back in place. Then I used a 2nd nail as a nail set to drive the shortened one home. Don't use too much force, as I chipped out about 1/8 an inch of the metal part that goes over the rope/nail setup.
Hard to describe, but there it is in case some future person needs the info.
Thanks again to @Modifiedmark @fossil and @67L36Driver
Hard to describe, but there it is in case some future person needs the info.
Thanks again to @Modifiedmark @fossil and @67L36Driver
Very nice Mark. I remember something about that GTG last year. Lots of green there.
2 on eBay right now. I just searched for "Poulan 530053596"
