Looks about like mine. Mine doesn't have the tensioner either. Do you have a cover that fits without a chain brake? I have a craftsman that fits but the craftsman is a better saw. Model 358.0060 I think
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
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Try Ordertree.com PP260 complete assembly.
- 545139915
- ASSY C/BRAKE
- $19.74
or pay the way over priced inflated prices folks sell for on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Poulan-Pro-...Cover-Chain-Brake-New-545139915-/361007218795
disturbednny
ArboristSite Member
I've been trying to get to the points on my S25DA for a few days now, but the flywheel key is stuck in there and everything I've tried (wire cutters trying to grasp it, needle noses, regular pliers) hasn't worked. is it possible to heat up either the key or the crankshaft to remove it or should I just give up? most likely my wifes grandfather put a key in that was slightly larger than spec, but I have no way of knowing.. the flywheel fits over it so it must be just really settled in there?
rubber hammer and use PB blaster, soak the shaft and hold the flywheel with one hand off of the table, hit the opposite side of the flywheel from the magnet and hold on to the flywheel. It should pop off.
disturbednny
ArboristSite Member
The flywheel came off no problem following the thread @Modifiedmark made for the fuel line replacement. Its the key thats stuck in the shaft and causing me all this greif...
I have had luck with just using a flatblade screwdriver and drifting it along the axis of the crank. It should move with a couple of good taps. Hopefully the edge of the key facing the outside of the crank is proud enough you can catch the edge with the driver. Drive at the point where the key inserts into the shaft. It will lift itself out of the pocket it is in.The flywheel came off no problem following the thread @Modifiedmark made for the fuel line replacement. Its the key thats stuck in the shaft and causing me all this greif...
I've never had much luck trying to grasp and pull them out. Drift them all. Don't worry too much about marring the edge. A file will clean it up after.
Blisters
ArboristSite Operative
Got this 3450 running as perfectly as humanly possible. Itching to throw it in some wood. Too dang hot here. 95 today 98 Thursday. I seriously need some saw fun!
Got a Homie super XL and a pro Mac 10-10s on the bench guess I can start on one of em. Messed with the homie a lil found out I needed some stuff. Rest came in today. Ain't even really looked at the Mac much. I'd rather cut than tinker.
Got a Homie super XL and a pro Mac 10-10s on the bench guess I can start on one of em. Messed with the homie a lil found out I needed some stuff. Rest came in today. Ain't even really looked at the Mac much. I'd rather cut than tinker.
Those little S25D woodruff keys can be rusted in like a tig weld.
The last one I pulled had to have the Dremel and & thin cutoff wheel to cut down the center longways before it would
release it's grip. Those are #211 round bottom keys BTW, but most hardware stores don't carry them that small.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-keys/=12z8xdg
Got to luv the pos china crap fuel lines the new poulans come with. 
Its yellow and not tygon. The inner lining was holding the filter in to the line end. But letting mix get by to clog up the carb with fines.
Went to pull filter off and the inner lining just kept coming out with it.
Still using the clear vinyl crap on the 2 lines to primer too.
Its yellow and not tygon. The inner lining was holding the filter in to the line end. But letting mix get by to clog up the carb with fines.
Went to pull filter off and the inner lining just kept coming out with it.
Still using the clear vinyl crap on the 2 lines to primer too.
Got to luv the pos china crap fuel lines the new poulans come with.
Its yellow and not tygon. The inner lining was holding the filter in to the line end. But letting mix get by to clog up the carb with fines.
Went to pull filter off and the inner lining just kept coming out with it.
Still using the clear vinyl crap on the 2 lines to primer too.
View attachment 509686 View attachment 509687
Looks like a few people sneezed in your fuel tank.
It has to be cost.
disturbednny
ArboristSite Member
Finally it came out. I had to drift the key with a really small square bit. How should the points look? It appears that the gap is ok, but this is my first engine with points.
What model Poulan is this?
Blisters
ArboristSite Operative
Not sure, but it looks like my 2001-2002 42cc.
I finally found some pictures of others like it. I think it may be a 2600, 2700, 2900 series.
The points should be flat, shiny, and make full contact with each other when closed. There should be no pits in the point surface but will still operate with small pits if everything else is right. When setting gap there should be slight drag on the feeler gage. Take gage out and remeasure after tightening. Sometimes the gap changes when tightening the set screw; then you gotta be smarter then the gap by applying a small amount of bias when tightening
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