redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yea, I agree that splitting the case would be the best remedy. Think I'll forego that choice seeing as I'm not at home.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
When I get home I'll if any of my 2800 type saws have spikes. If so you can have it.
Nice one Tim. I have a Benchmark brand 2800 that needs some attention. I haven't seen the orange one like yours. I can scan you the spike at work this week.
What was the fix with the plate/boot/carb you were having?
What was the fix with the plate/boot/carb you were having?
Off to the local charity cut this AM again. Always enjoyable. A bit of a mix of saws in my 6 saw plan today. Two weeks ago it was all Poulan. Last week all Homelite. A bit of a blend today. Just have to load them and head out now.
For the firewood size in the decks we're cutting, the 3000 is tops. It will get lots of action today. It has the superior AV. I can still feel the s25da I ran two weeks ago.
For the firewood size in the decks we're cutting, the 3000 is tops. It will get lots of action today. It has the superior AV. I can still feel the s25da I ran two weeks ago.
I made sure the plate was flat and it was OK. I put a spare boot in that I had. It held good vac a pressure with the one I took out but swapped it anyway. I think the fix that worked was a double thick gasket between the carb and the plate. I cut the gaskets and used Motoseal in between them. Anymore BS from it in that respect and I'll put some Motoseal between the carb and gasket and then on the carb side of the plate.
I also have a 285 which is basically the same but has the chrome plated cyl bore and a bare piston. The 2800 P&C look perfect and comp is at 150 so it feels pretty snappy. I was going to cut a couple of cookies today but it's blowing like heck outside. The 285 runs well but needs a brake band. I forgot to ask a friend if he has any band saw blades that are used up. I think I could make one out of that material with a little annealing where the end needs to be bent.
Did you get a 4200 or a 4400? I can't remember.
I might keep my eye out for a 3000 if I can find one in nice shape. I'm getting too many saws now so my enthusiasm is curbing a bit.
Thanks for offering a scan of the spike. I will make a couple when I receive it. No rush.
365, 3500, 3600, 3450,3750,380. Basically any case with the wider cylinder bolt pattern
@Acornhill show the back of 336 cylinder. The reason I didnt add the other big saws, till I see if it has a impulse nipple or not. 
If it dont have one you would have to add one to run on the 3450 3750 380 330.
If it dont have one you would have to add one to run on the 3450 3750 380 330.
Just looked and those cylinders are still in stock new and can be bought for $56.60
Tim, I have some new ones here if you want to save some work...
ANewSawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
So it has been 26ish hours since I did the base gaket delete and 12 hours earlier since I did the case. Think I could pressure test it now or should I let it set till morning?
Heh, just saw a reference to the oil tank vent, a cotter pin? Hope mine isn't too loose. Just oil anyway.
Heh, just saw a reference to the oil tank vent, a cotter pin? Hope mine isn't too loose. Just oil anyway.
You should be good to go now. I usually leave mine overnight and they have been OK.
If the cotter pin is loose, learn to fuel faster. If I recall correctly, it's just behind the bar pad in the case.
If the cotter pin is loose, learn to fuel faster. If I recall correctly, it's just behind the bar pad in the case.
ANewSawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
I didn't know what the cotter pin did or I would have replaced it while the case was split, as it is very loose. Better chain oiling when cutting notches!
Just tested it, no movememt of the crank it looses approximately a half psi of pressure over 120 seconds elapsed time and a little less than a point of vac over 120 seconds. Crank rotation pass vac and pressure with no perciptable loss of either during rotation. I would think that is a pass, what do the judges say?
Just tested it, no movememt of the crank it looses approximately a half psi of pressure over 120 seconds elapsed time and a little less than a point of vac over 120 seconds. Crank rotation pass vac and pressure with no perciptable loss of either during rotation. I would think that is a pass, what do the judges say?
MS460WOODCHUCK
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hey guys does the Windsor UXL fit the 475, 4900 and 306 lines of saws?
Manual oil pump question on my 3400, when first mashing pump level has good resistance, after that its real easy, let sit 15 to 20 seconds and firm again on first push then easy again. Does that sounds like it time to replace the pump plunger seals, oil does flow good on first push then not much after that.
Steve
Steve
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Your good to go. The cotterpin fits in the oil vent hole. You want it to turn slightly. However mine was leaking oil out the vent hole while on its side. Like fossil said, gas up quick so it doesn't have much time to leak.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'd say so but haven't had that problem as yet.
Could be worn, but not likely as that's a 2 sided "quad" O-ring and by design it seals both ways. I assume that the auto-oiler is working OK..
Refill rate into the pump body is dependant on 6 different items; oil thickness/temperature, pick-up screen, hose pinholes/kinks, inlet and outlet check balls & springs in the pump body, and then the tank vent/cotter.
I just had to order a used pump body from Acornhill last month because the intake check valve was stopped up by fines & couldn't even be cleared with carb cleaner, 100# shop air & a small wire. It picks up & oils great now.
Are you running the "Summer" thick oil?
Have you pulled the pump assembly out to inspect & pressure test the two midget sized internal checks?
Haven't check it yet, brought it to work today to see what's going on. The pump that was on it did the same thing. Auto pump seems to work when warmed up but not manual part. I replaced the line when I went through the saw. Had to used two saws to build one. Rod bearings on crank was shot.
Steve
Steve
Yes on the 4900 and the 306. You would need spacers for the studs on the 306 and maybe on the 4900. The 4900 had both 5/16" and 3/8" bar studs.
The 5/16" studs require an "S" clip or just use a 3/8" extension spring and cut a few coils off and use that. Ipt a little bend in the leg of the coi wire so the spacers don't fall off when you take the bar off
The UXL bars have a 3/8" slot. The 475 takes a D009 mount so the UXL would likely fit up OK but maybe the guys with that series could verify.
Just about all the 3400 - 4000 and 4200 - 8500 saws came with Windsor UXL bars in Canada. Great bars. They fit most of the 1970 and '80's Homelites as well.
Well after saw sit in shop this morning warming up, got to look at it at lunch, pump worked fine. Time to thin out the oil. Didn't even dawn on me about the oil because of the warm weather we've been having then this cold snap hit.
Steve
Steve
