Nik's Poulan Thread

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One more, could you imagine being near this when it blew
f8af9ebe292c68b9c82af714c1c9a432.jpg


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Sounds like you didn't have flat enough mating surfaces..

Any saw that I've left for more than 24 hours has not been an issue including the 180. I'm wondering if the close tolerances impedes curing. It seems to set up very fast elsewhere.
I'm not sure I can feel any meaningful difference in performance by deleting the base gasket although I'm sure that assumption would put me in a minority.
I've usually done it because I didn't have the material for a base gasket
 
One more, could you imagine being near this when it blew
f8af9ebe292c68b9c82af714c1c9a432.jpg


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Harry Truman and his house are buried up there under 50 m of pyroclastic material. Stubborn old fellow wouldn't evacuate despite much warning. Got famous for it. As a kid, I remember watching the volcanic ash rain down up in Kamloops, BC. It is at least 400 km North as the bird flies. Used a broom to clean the car off for mom every morning. Significant damage and lives taken by that eruption.
 
The only time I've had an issue is using Motoseal to replace a base gasket. It was on that PP180 Micro. It either blew it out or sucked it in so I usually leave it for a day or so. As far as other applications, it's ready to go quickly.

I let it [1104] set overnite. cant hurt to is my thought. I don't use base gaskets, just cause its easier w/o em. only saw I noticed a big diff on w/o gasket was a micro. most others weren't runnin when jug came off.
 
I let it [1104] set overnite. cant hurt to is my thought. I don't use base gaskets, just cause its easier w/o em. only saw I noticed a big diff on w/o gasket was a micro. most others weren't runnin when jug came off.

The XL-76's I have that I've taken apart have Motoseal under the cylinders. Good stuff but messy.
 
I've got a xl123 vi I got for my dad I've got a regular 123 spoke for I made a deal for an xl75 but really want a 76

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The XL-76's I have that I've taken apart have Motoseal under the cylinders. Good stuff but messy.

Don't know why I was thinking Threebond in my earlier post. Same reference pretty much goes for Motoseal as well, though. Try Dirko-HT next time you need a tube o' goo. Rubberized silicon sealant that retains its elasticity and never hardens. Not an adhesive. Easy removal. Not messy. Just a high end, high temp fuel/oil proof sealant. 'Bout the same price as all the others, too.... unless you buy it from a Stihl dealer.

https://www.elring.de/en/products/sealing-compounds/
 
I let it [1104] set overnite. cant hurt to is my thought. I don't use base gaskets, just cause its easier w/o em. only saw I noticed a big diff on w/o gasket was a micro. most others weren't runnin when jug came off.

The XL-76's I have that I've taken apart have Motoseal under the cylinders. Good stuff but messy. Some 3400 - 4000 as well and Homie XL-922
 
Don't know why I was thinking Threebond in my earlier post. Same reference pretty much goes for Motoseal as well, though. Try Dirko-HT next time you need a tube o' goo. Rubberized silicon sealant that retains its elasticity and never hardens. Not an adhesive. Easy removal. Not messy. Just a high end, high temp fuel/oil proof sealant. 'Bout the same price as all the others, too.... unless you buy it from a Stihl dealer.

https://www.elring.de/en/products/sealing-compounds/

I can't find anyone who sells it up here. I would likely have to go to Stihl.

What's the shelf life on that after it's opened?

I've using Motoseal since it's easily found and cheap.

$9 CDN ($7.20 USD) for 80cc

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motoseal-1-ultimate-gasket-maker-grey-0382523p.html
 
I'M Stumped....
Got a Sears 2.0 (Poulan Micro 2000) from a friend. Saw appears to be very low hours... paint is all there... no scratches, a little peeling ,no dents. P&C looked pristine, came in original case. Replaced fuel lines, filter & kitted carb. Put a little mix in tank & a couple dribbles down the carb. Fired on prime 1st pull & ran a couple seconds. Looked at fuel line in handle - fuel almost to carb. Closed choke & gave it a couple pulls & it popped. Opened choke & gave a pull & started right up. Idled good but really fat on top. Opened to wot to adjust H .... Turned H in about 1/32 turn & saw stopped like it had been shut off. Went to start back up & the da**ed thing is locked up. It was 4 stroking hard when it died. Pulled jug off & it has some very minor scoring & piston has some to match. The piston seems to be locked in place on the con rod (only rotates about 4-5 degrees). Shouldn't the piston be able to rotate freely... Skirt to skirt??? Sorry for the long story.
Any thoughts would be appreciated!!!
 
Something doesn't sound right.

Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
Exactly what I thought... Been running 3 other saws out of the same jug cutting up some firewood this week. P&C don't look that bad. Scoring will just barely catch my finger nail. The hung piston/wrist pin has me stumped.
 
Sounds like you're gonna have to pull the piston pin and see what's going on .

Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
I have a couple or three more of these in the pile.... Hopefully I can scrounge up the stuff to get this one running as it's such a nice example of the Micro series of saws.
 

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