It’s weaeing more paint then the green one. But case is broken in a couple spots. It’ll be a parts saw.
That's sad bugger eh I always say sorry to my parts saws Haha.
It’s weaeing more paint then the green one. But case is broken in a couple spots. It’ll be a parts saw.
Would be funny to go hold it’s own against my buddy’s 038 stihl tho. Lookin all ratty
We should make a day of it Pete. I got a few things to bring out.never seen one, nevermind run one, but my 038's in if yer buddy's fails...
may as well pair up the 4200s while yer here.
I need some help, cover on the left is from my 4200 the right is also 4200 ???. What can you tell me about them, both fit over the bushings, both center hold down. Left is raised and the right is flat. Are they early and late, one for this and one for that . All help and pictures needed View attachment 686291
We should make a day of it Pete. I got a few things to bring out.
The pump comes out when you remove 3 of the 4 (?) screws - been a couple years since I've had one off. The fourth only threads into the body of the pump and holds the cover captive while installing or removing. It is fairly simple to remove the output line to the bar pad. I have seen two styles of line. The most common just threads into the back of the pump with a fitting. I would strongly recommend changing the pickup line as the OEM soften, and crack. Reuse the spring sheath. It is worth cleaning out the pump really well with a good soak. There are internal ball/spring checks that can get sticky. Work some WD-40 through holes. I would not use compressed air as the springs are very delicate. Clean button/pintle and new gaskets, case and cover (from sheet stock). Cut a small strip of foam and replace the atmospheric vent filter. A new piece of foam around the manual plunger shaft just behind the channel in the case under the cover plate as well. Just cut a block of foam and punch the rod through it. A surprising amount of cake can work in behind that plate from the channel if the foam is rotten.I finally got some time to work on the 3800 today, got the clutch off using a block of wood to stop the crank from turning and an impact with the air pressure backed off to 75lbs. My question now is can the oil pump diaphram be changed without taking out the pump?
No it doesn't Todd. These are before and during rebuild, no muffler brace on it. More than likely the brace was an updated design.Steve did the muffler have the plate that mounted to the top of the cylinder
Where’s the dis-like button
The pump comes out when you remove 3 of the 4 (?) screws - been a couple years since I've had one off. The fourth only threads into the body of the pump and holds the cover captive while installing or removing. It is fairly simple to remove the output line to the bar pad. I have seen two styles of line. The most common just threads into the back of the pump with a fitting. I would strongly recommend changing the pickup line as the OEM soften, and crack. Reuse the spring sheath. It is worth cleaning out the pump really well with a good soak. There are internal ball/spring checks that can get sticky. Work some WD-40 through holes. I would not use compressed air as the springs are very delicate. Clean button/pintle and new gaskets, case and cover (from sheet stock). Cut a small strip of foam and replace the atmospheric vent filter. A new piece of foam around the manual plunger shaft just behind the channel in the case under the cover plate as well. Just cut a block of foam and punch the rod through it. A surprising amount of cake can work in behind that plate from the channel if the foam is rotten.
They oil well with a healthy diaphram. Mind the impulse hole in the case that services the pump body. Make sure it is sealed well. They can leak when reusing old gaskets. Air leak symptoms follow.
Drain the oil tank. Been there, forgot that. Easy job to service the pump properly. Link to a post I made a couple or so years ago outlines what I do, with pics.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/poulan-thread.98495/page-2032#post-5931213
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