Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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6.182 center to center
EngineNoO9
ArboristSite Guru
Looks good
I should say if it's center to center. Ok
I made that gasket using the case and the gasket pdf file I have, was kind of hard but I made it.
Steve Sidwell
Steve Sidwell
EngineNoO9
ArboristSite Guru
Roger. I'm going to see if I can port of the scans 100% and if that works things should work correctly. Then I'll use the dimensions to verify scale.
Just finished up repairing all five of my big saws’ throttle locks. The push buttons were really loose, in & out, with little to no spring pre-tension. A couple of them would stick on high idle until you worked the throttle trigger a couple of times to help free the lock pin up & out.
Why Poulan used an open ended coil spring on those 4200-6900 series saws baffles me. The inner spring coil ends had all spiraled their way down inside the handle, wedged between it & the lock pin shaft.
I made a batch of tiny washers to just fit 0.005” over the shaft, cut the washers ODs down to fit inside the handles spring bore, stretched the return springs out a bit, and then bent the coil ends down with needle nose to be flat ended.
Bought a batch of new midget sized 1/16” diameter by 1/4” long roll pins to replace the old ones I lost during reassembly.
Note that you can’t get the throttle lock pin all the way out of the handle, w/o disassembling the handle/gas tank, & I’m not going there...
If you stuff a slot tip screwdriver down between the lock pins big head & the plastic trigger, you can hold the lock pin in the outermost position, in order to reinstall & align the push button over the shaft & then press in the little roll pin with channel locks.
Poor cell phone pics, note used Brownells gunsmithing spring kit for spring making & a 1/16” roll pin punch from their set.
Support the button with a woodblock or wedge, when you tap the roll pin out, because the lock pin is fragile. Took pics from a handle off sample, but you can do this w/o removing the carb or linkage or trigger, just the top cover needs to come off.
I couldn’t get the new custom washer pulled back out for a pic, but you see the shiny washer down in the handle bore.
Don’t cut a spring too long, if you make a new one, because if the solid height is too long, it will not allow the pin head to catch the throttle trigger on the back side....0.024” wire at 5 coils did the job for replacements. Stretch the spring to just give some pressure outwards when the
button is installed over the shaft & the pin holes are aligned, trial & error.
Realign the button hole to the shaft hole with your punch, hold in slightly with your thumb, then start the roll pin in from the other side.
Use pliers to squeeze the roll pin end, rather than hammer it in.
Why Poulan used an open ended coil spring on those 4200-6900 series saws baffles me. The inner spring coil ends had all spiraled their way down inside the handle, wedged between it & the lock pin shaft.
I made a batch of tiny washers to just fit 0.005” over the shaft, cut the washers ODs down to fit inside the handles spring bore, stretched the return springs out a bit, and then bent the coil ends down with needle nose to be flat ended.
Bought a batch of new midget sized 1/16” diameter by 1/4” long roll pins to replace the old ones I lost during reassembly.
Note that you can’t get the throttle lock pin all the way out of the handle, w/o disassembling the handle/gas tank, & I’m not going there...
If you stuff a slot tip screwdriver down between the lock pins big head & the plastic trigger, you can hold the lock pin in the outermost position, in order to reinstall & align the push button over the shaft & then press in the little roll pin with channel locks.
Poor cell phone pics, note used Brownells gunsmithing spring kit for spring making & a 1/16” roll pin punch from their set.
Support the button with a woodblock or wedge, when you tap the roll pin out, because the lock pin is fragile. Took pics from a handle off sample, but you can do this w/o removing the carb or linkage or trigger, just the top cover needs to come off.
I couldn’t get the new custom washer pulled back out for a pic, but you see the shiny washer down in the handle bore.
Don’t cut a spring too long, if you make a new one, because if the solid height is too long, it will not allow the pin head to catch the throttle trigger on the back side....0.024” wire at 5 coils did the job for replacements. Stretch the spring to just give some pressure outwards when the
button is installed over the shaft & the pin holes are aligned, trial & error.
Realign the button hole to the shaft hole with your punch, hold in slightly with your thumb, then start the roll pin in from the other side.
Use pliers to squeeze the roll pin end, rather than hammer it in.
Hotshot do you have any pictures of your great fix, sounds like you did some fine work on them
I’m on a roll. Tuesday I found a Sachs rotary engine KMS4. I just now found an old Poulin with a 4’ bar. The closest thing I could find on Acres is an H100. It’s cool and if I can get it cheap, I’ll get it for the shelf. I’m talking under 50 bucks. What would the Poulin guys say? Should I go higher?
Sorry, went back to Acres and it looks more like an F200, with a 3 point handle bar. Add says 4’ bar. Not sure what it is. I’ll call Monday and ask if they can check for model number? It’s at an auction about an hour and a half from me.
Don't kick yourself later over 20.00 if you pass on it, know what I'm talking about, been there done it. Maybe you'll never get another chance. Had a friend tell me if you walked away and then went back how mad would you be if someone else got it
I have a Poulan Pro 330 that is missing the hardware for the chain brake. Does anyone have a part number? All i can find is the whole brake assy.
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I dug out my old IPL dated 9/6/00 and it also shows key number 26 on page 3 part number 952069321 description chain brake kit .
Thanks
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Pictures and steps on how you done the throttle lock would be nice. Mine won't hold when you try to start it, it unlocks the minute you pull the starter.
Steve Sidwell
Steve Sidwell
If you use the 365c IPL with chain brake cover you can get individual parts list.
I just happen to have this all saved on my CR website in thread. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum....over-differences-in-weight/msg80631/#msg80631
Check and see if it works for you. http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/poulanpropp365cchainsaw.pdf
Just what I needed, thanks. BTW, I need both bushings, heat shield, and screw. PO lost hardware. Can't complain, got the running PP 330 with 24" bar on CL for $50.
Got a strange one. My Husky trimmer, when you press the primer bulb nothing happens, pulling in gas wise. I can pull the carb, take it apart and put it together and it will prime fine and run without missing a beat. Go back about a week later, same thing til I pull it apart and reassemble it. Everything looks good inside and is clean as a pin. Now I'm gonna have to pull it apart again so I can use it. I've check the primer check valve and find no issues with it nor the bulb. Didn't know if anyone ran into something like that. Oh, carb will have a little gas in it so I know it's not dry. Inlet needle doesn't seem to be sticking either.
Steve Sidwell
Steve Sidwell
EngineNoO9
ArboristSite Guru
I feel like my Poulan 4218 does that. It's not leaking. I replaced all of the lines, wanted to replace the primer but the ones I had didn't fit. So reinstalled it but I don't see any fuel in the bulb ever. Now I'm pretty convinced something is wrong with the carb so that could be causing my issues. I have gotten it to start.
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