Nik's Poulan Thread

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Acres says the max RPM for the 3700 is 8500. Is that accurate?

That place is 50/50 on info being right or close at times.

I just set these fat and then turn out a hair to clear up in cuts. Stock ones

Here is a post from Roger on his MODDED 3700 and less modded 395. Here is the thread where we were talking. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/4000-rpm's/

Ok I put the tach on my PP 395 and on my Poulan 3700. Both saws had the bar and chain on them and wide open throttle.
The PP 395 has been MM and the base gasket removed but no other mods. The RPM's were at 10,600.
The Poulan 3700 has been MM and the base gasket removed with another .020" taken from the base and then the intake and exhaust ports were widened. The tops of the transfers were pointed towards the intake side and the plastic intake manifold was smoothed out. The timing was advanced also. The RPM's were 13,000.
Both saws were 4 stroking with no problem.

Here is a post by Ray.

I keep a log on my saws for setting the high speed screw since getting a tach. The 3700 hasn't been run for a couple seasons but it ran best when set it at 11,500. Just follow the owners manual recommendation when setting the carb. Tach isn't really necessary.

 

[EngineNoO9]

That may be max rpm in a cut. 8500 seemed low when a Stihl 041 says max rpm of 11,000. I'll see. Like I said I'm curious mostly. Plus if I can get some help with tuning while wearing ear pro I'll take it.

 

[3000 FPS]

Acres says the max RPM for the 3700 is 8500. Is that accurate?

I think you can tune them to go higher than that and still be safe. I have a 3700 here that I modified and used a wireless tach on it and got 13ooo rpm's.

 

[Jeepwm69]

So I normally am a Husqvarna guy. I'm not a saw tuner or anything, just run stock saws, mainly cleaning up on the yard and on the farm. 342XP for small stuff, 372XP for bigger stuff.

Local Walmart has a Poulan Pro 4218 for $79. Is this a decent beater saw to clear ATV trails and whatnot, or is it going to just irritate the crap out of me every time I try to use it? Looks like the pull cord pulley is a frequent problem.

Cheap enough that I'd consider it for a beater saw, but I don't want to spend more time messing with it than I do cutting with it.

Thoughts?

 

[EngineNoO9]

For that cheap for brand new sure... Though you could probably find something used for less that's probably better.

 

[s sidewall]

You WILL have to set the saw up, they come set too lean.

Steve Sidwell

 

[Jeepwm69]

I'll have to see if I can find it. My local store only shows one on hand. Nearby store about 30 miles away shows 4.

For anyone interested, you can plug your zip in here and it will show you what area stores show they have on hand. Not always accurate, but it does exactly reflect what the store's inventory system says they have on hand.

Around here theft is rampant so I'll be surprised to find one at my local store than only shows limited stock (which means one on hand, even though the qty says zero. Out of Stock in red means zero on hand)

Might make the drive to the store that shows 4 on hand.

https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=228888285

 

[3000 FPS]

So I normally am a Husqvarna guy. I'm not a saw tuner or anything, just run stock saws, mainly cleaning up on the yard and on the farm. 342XP for small stuff, 372XP for bigger stuff.

Local Walmart has a Poulan Pro 4218 for $79. Is this a decent beater saw to clear ATV trails and whatnot, or is it going to just irritate the crap out of me every time I try to use it? Looks like the pull cord pulley is a frequent problem.

Cheap enough that I'd consider it for a beater saw, but I don't want to spend more time messing with it than I do cutting with it.

Thoughts?

Unless you know how to tune a saw and do some tinkering with it you may be very disappointed. Like a muffler mod and pulling the limiters off the carb adjustments screws and then tuning the carb.

 

[EngineNoO9]

I think you can tune them to go higher than that and still be safe. I have a 3700 here that I modified and used a wireless tach on it and got 13ooo rpm's.

Yeah I'm thinking the 8500 is definitely under load. That's a massive RPM difference but I've seen some saws listed with max RPM and max under load. Who knows where that number came from so I'll check it out. I'll likely check my stihl 041 first as it needs nothing. I'm still tinkering with getting this broken bolt out on my 3700 before I mess with anything else on it.

 

[s sidewall]

Put a bow on it if all fails getting that bolt out.

Steve Sidwell

 

[s sidewall]

Definitely will need a mm and carb adjustments. They are a dog out of the box if you can get it to run half way.

Steve Sidwell

 

[Jeepwm69]

I'm pretty handy with small engines. Rebuild a lot of Honda ATV's for fun/friends/family, but I don't tend to mod things too much as I'd rather it be reliable than overperforming. When it comes to saws my XP's run plenty good for the minimal cutting I do.

No luck at my local store finding the one they show in stock. I might run to the neighboring town in a day or two and see if they have any of the 4 they show on hand. Not going to kill myself looking for one.

I have an MS180 in my shop that a friend gave me after he loaned it out and the loaner ran it with the brake on. Melted the crankcase. I have a replacement case from Hutzl but haven't gotten around to doing it all yet. Maybe I'd be better off fixing that one for a beater saw.

 

[EngineNoO9]

Put a bow on it if all fails getting that bolt out.

Steve Sidwell

Never gonna happen. Heh. I'll helicoil it or run no fellong spikes if necessary.

 

[3000 FPS]

Never gonna happen. Heh. I'll helicoil it or run no fellong spikes if necessary.

You will get it out. Or like you said helicoil it.

 

[s sidewall]

[emoji38]

Steve Sidwell

 

[redunshee]

I think you can tune them to go higher than that and still be safe. I have a 3700 here that I modified and used a wireless tach on it and got 13ooo rpm's.

Likel;y they were referring to rpm in the cut. 13,000 dang, that's a lot of revs.

 

[EngineNoO9]

Semi fixed. It's a shorter bolt as I was struggling to get it all out. These may work if I put plenty of thread lock on. I'll try and get more out but I know if I don't I can use this which is better than nothing (or a bow).

 

[s sidewall]

Semi fixed. It's a shorter bolt as I was struggling to get it all out. These may work if I put plenty of thread lock on. I'll try and get more out but I know if I don't I can use this which is better than nothing (or a bow).

[emoji1]

Steve Sidwell

 

[EngineNoO9]

I may still need to do a helicoil but I don't have one the right size right now but felt like it was cross threading. I did a bunch of thread locker and am gonna give it a whirl for now. If it holds then great! I never take it off.

 

[rarefish383]

Just curious, and don’t get me wrong, I understand modding stuff. When I was a kid I had several Mopar 340 cars. My 69 Swinger race car I shifted at 9000 rpm, but I only raced it on the track once a week. My 340 daily driver seldom saw the far side of 6000. Are you tuning for an extra 1000 rpm for a play toy, use now and then. To see how much power you can ring out of it, or saws that will see daily use? I’m old and remember the dinosaurs, and believe if it hadn’t been for that asteroid, the dino’s Would still rule. That’s why I collect saws over 70CC’s with 404 and half inch chain. The 404 spinning at 6500, taking bigger bites, will clip a nail off and only damage a couple teeth. The 3/8’s spinning at 11000-12000, hits the same nail and wipes out the whole chain. The most I do with my old saws is gut the muffler. Because I want them to look factory. But, at one time I was tinkering with a blower drive buy mounting two rim sprockets side by side, on one of my Super 1050’s. One for the chain with teeth, and one with no teeth going to the blower. Then I got to thinking about all that chain spinning close to my hands. Didn’t like the idea of people calling me “Stumpy”, so I gave up on that one.