Nik's Poulan Thread

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Finally got the seals and put this 53A together.
Tried to start it, but its pouring gas out the carburetor. I replaced the needle and seat and the gaskets are in the correct spots. The HL has a high speed governor check ball thing, I'm thinking that is the culprit.

Pulling the carburetor requires dismantling most of the saw, so i'll leave it on the shelf for a bit until I feel like working on it again.

View attachment 780546

View attachment 780547

What kit did you use? Tilly HL's had several different needle/seat combinations over the years and many different kits. I
have fought my share of needle and seat troubles ( even with the right parts) and gas running from the carb is from a needle seat problem majority of the time
 
I may have answered my own question. Here's what I'm referring to. Not identical, but close I believe.
shopping

Those should be FS everywhere. Heck I think I have a few laying in a misc dish.
530026119 duckbill vent - 530024475 vent fitting https://www.partstree.com/parts/husqvarna-530024475/
 
What kit did you use? Tilly HL's had several different needle/seat combinations over the years and many different kits. I
have fought my share of needle and seat troubles ( even with the right parts) and gas running from the carb is from a needle seat problem majority of the time
Just a generic kit, hard seat soft tipped needle. re-used the original spring. I've had a lot of issues with HL carbs, they seem to either work perfectly with a kit or the pour gas out of them. I may lower the lever in this and see if that fixes anything.
 
Just a generic kit, hard seat soft tipped needle. re-used the original spring. I've had a lot of issues with HL carbs, they seem to either work perfectly with a kit or the pour gas out of them. I may lower the lever in this and see if that fixes anything.
The Viton tipped needle, brass seat and forked lever is my preference. That said I have used tons of aftermarket kits with good success. The troubled ones seemed to be HL kits. One thing to watch for is the metering diaphragm on some AM HL kits had a taller metal bump in the middle of it and does affect lever height.
 
Any tips or tricks to rewinding a starter recoil spring small enough to go back into a Poulan 306/245 starter housing?

The spring is the OEM one, which is not “captured” with a rivet through the first two outer spring wraps, like all the aftermarket repair springs. Nor is it supplied in a sheet metal cup or metal can like others.

I can daym near get it, but right at the end it
distorts or moves sideways & blows up into an unwound mess in the resemblance of a plate of cooked speghetti.

Wearing latex rubber gloves helped get a grip, but after 5-6 blowups right at the end of rewinding, I’m ready to order a replacement aftermarket 530042012 spring & call it quits.
 
Any tips or tricks to rewinding a starter recoil spring back small enough to go back into a Poulan 306/245 starter housing?

The spring is the OEM one, which is not “captured” with a rivet through the first two outer spring wraps, like all the aftermarket repair springs. Nor is it supplied in a sheet metal cup or metal can like others.

I can daym near get it, but right at the end it
distorts or moves sideways & blows up into an unwound mess in the resemblance of a plate of cooked speghetti.

Wearing latex rubber gloves helped get a grip, but after 5-6 blowups right at the end of rewinding, I’m ready to order a replacement aftermarket 530042012 spring & call it quits.

Never done one of those to know how to even suggest help.

I do wish all were shielded though. 2 I just done. 1 this morning the 030 one.

But little trick I learned is just use the pulley to wind it up tight with spring on bench top.

p330spring.jpg p330springrecoil.jpg s030springg.jpg
 
I have wound them up tight in my hands before and then clamped it with a small vice grip before installing. I tried making a tool once but it did not turn out to work as well as I thought it would.

I finally got it installed, took me 7 tries, and yes I’m hard headed & yes I don’t quit!!

I used my hands w latex gloves & 2 pair of needle nose vise grips, then took a rest right before I loaded it into the housing. The loading is where it blew up three or four times. You have to get the loose “U” loop centered over the anchor pin and then push it all off the vise grips with a screwdriver.

Had my appendix pulled AND a hernia fixed last Tues, so guess I was rundown from that two hole experience & the two day “hotel” visit, lol. 1st time I’d ever been a patient & put under...I’m so lucky for that!

CA48742F-E225-41A1-BC02-75B56C5DBB72.jpeg
 
I finally got it installed, took me 7 tries, and yes I’m hard headed & yes I don’t quit!!

I used my hands w latex gloves & 2 pair of needle nose vise grips, then took a rest right before I loaded it into the housing. The loading is where it blew up three or four times. You have to get the loop centered over the anchor pin and then push it all off the vise grips with a screwdriver.

Had my appendix pulled AND a hernia fixed last Tues, so guess I was rundown from that two hole experience & the two day “hotel” visit, lol. 1st time I’d ever been a patient & put under...I’m so lucky for that!

Glad you got it even with your handicaps until you heal up. Those springs can be frustrating for sure.
 
Welderman, I put a carb kit in and nothing still acted like it was not getting enough fuel so I took a. .160 diameter drill and opened up the hole to the tank. Then I used 3/32 x 3/16 line and hooked it up and what a difference, starts easy and runs fine. Hope this helps you. That is a nice 42cc saw , put a 20 inch bar on
 
Never have, but definitely doing that next time, outside-in winding.
.
Thanks for the general idea, as that’s not a one size fits all application, the spring ODs do vary.

Easy enough to quickly lay out & shoot screws for two or three of those patterns though.
 

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