Nik's Poulan Thread

[Modifiedmark]

MM,
Those are kind of like the Oregon 23115 - 7 tooth - 9 spline rim drives for the S25DA series, but a full house 3/8” fits the 23115 rim .... and the desired 3/8” LP are sloppy from fore to aft. Not sure what’s up with that.

Normally you’ll see the Oregon 19779 - 9 spline - 9 tooth 1/4” pitch rim used on the S25DA.

I’d never run full 3/8” pitch on a S25DA.

The 530048074 for the micro is “correctly” just the opposite, 3/8” LP fits fine but the full house is too wide. Have a couple spares of the 48074 here for a P2000, but alas the needle bearings are missing.

Randy, your very good with part numbers, very good. I can't remember numbers worth a crap, never could. All I remember is thinking the rim drives for the S25 were a good idea but not really practical to use. Unless your cutting twigs I like the 6 tooth better. As far as the 1/4" pitch, it pulls harder and needs more power then the 3/8's lp does. The 2.1 saws had there hands full with the 1/4 pitch to begin with and thats when the goofy 9 tooth showed up. Never made sense to me. In the late 70's I was converting 2.1 saws to LP because they run and cut better that way.

I know if I looked, I have some of those rim drive sprockets here, I will never use them so if someone want's some let me know. I have a bunch of Micro and 25 sprockets too that I will never use as I don't plan on doing much more with the small saws. I have more then enough of them already.

 

[fossil]

MM,
Those are kind of like the Oregon 23115 - 7 tooth - 9 spline rim drives for the S25DA series, but a full house 3/8” fits the 23115 rim .... and the desired 3/8” LP are sloppy from fore to aft. Not sure what’s up with that.

Normally you’ll see the Oregon 19779 - 9 spline - 9 tooth 1/4” pitch rim used on the S25DA.

I’d never run full 3/8” pitch on a S25DA.

The 530048074 for the micro is “correctly” just the opposite, 3/8” LP fits fine but the full house is too wide. Have a couple spares of the 48074 here for a P2000, but alas the needle bearings are missing.

I will measure up the bearing if you want Randy. I did have a look at it yesterday to see if PN was stamped into the cage but didn't see one.

 

[hotshot]

Randy, your very good with part numbers, very good. I can't remember numbers worth a crap, never could. All I remember is thinking the rim drives for the S25 were a good idea but not really practical to use. Unless your cutting twigs I like the 6 tooth better. As far as the 1/4" pitch, it pulls harder and needs more power then the 3/8's lp does. The 2.1 saws had there hands full with the 1/4 pitch to begin with and thats when the goofy 9 tooth showed up. Never made sense to me. In the late 70's I was converting 2.1 saws to LP because they run and cut better that way.

I know if I looked, I have some of those rim drive sprockets here, I will never use them so if someone want's some let me know. I have a bunch of Micro and 25 sprockets too that I will never use as I don't plan on doing much more with the small saws. I have more then enough of them already.

PM a batch price for them, when you get a chance. The S25 & micros are all that Dad & I use anymore when limbing, 1/4 & 3/8LP.

No plastic saws needed yet lol.

 

[redunshee]

PM a batch price for them, when you get a chance. The S25 & micros are all that Dad & I use anymore when limbing, 1/4 & 3/8LP.

No plastic saws needed yet lol.

Starting to resurrect my S25da saws. Only issue I'm having is the chain turning at idle. I've boiled it down to incorrect sprockets. BY that I mean the only one that works properly is the saw that uses the large spacer between the sprocket and clutch. My others don't use a spacer . I've switched the working sprocket and spacer with a non spacer sprocket and the chain spins. What are ur thoughts.

 

[Modifiedmark]

PM a batch price for them, when you get a chance. The S25 & micros are all that Dad & I use anymore when limbing, 1/4 & 3/8LP.

No plastic saws needed yet lol.

I will try to go look and see whats all there, and let you know.

 

[fossil]

PM a batch price for them, when you get a chance. The S25 & micros are all that Dad & I use anymore when limbing, 1/4 & 3/8LP.

No plastic saws needed yet lol.

Randy,

As near as I can tell the bearings for the Micro clutch drums are 10X13X13mm but I can't be absolutely sure.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Testing out the new 71cc 444 against my tried and true 445's. Having full wrap and 3/4 on 2 you just have to have the right scrench. Easy peasy.

 

[3000 FPS]

Is that a flippy cap on your 445

 

[Modifiedmark]

Anybody ever have to use a grease gun then a Porta Power to get a stuck cylinder off a saw? Believe it or not, I think the cylinder will be fine..

 

[Todd Loosli]

I never have but I have to ask what are you working on. Nice setup for getting it off

 

[hotshot]

Randy,

As near as I can tell the bearings for the Micro clutch drums are 10X13X13mm but I can't be absolutely sure.

Thanks Tim, I can pick one up to try. It maybe a common 530032079 for the micros.
Metric sizes sounds too early “time wise” for that saw series, but they were working on metric on later saws. The P4200 has some metric mixed in.

 

[hotshot]

Starting to resurrect my S25da saws. Only issue I'm having is the chain turning at idle. I've boiled it down to incorrect sprockets. BY that I mean the only one that works properly is the saw that uses the large spacer between the sprocket and clutch. My others don't use a spacer . I've switched the working sprocket and spacer with a non spacer sprocket and the chain spins. What are ur thoughts.

Bob,
I’ve had some of the same S25DA “chain running on at idle” issues here, but it was that the Oregons #28006 are badly out of round & dragging on the clutch shoes. The Oregons don’t have ad big a bump or dish in the drums sides like the Herr brands either. New blue steel spring pairs & taking the burrs off the clutch shoe sides helped too.

A couple of trips through the lathe fixed the Oregon’s, first hammering to center as best as you can & then grinding them open a bit.

The Poulan OEM drum sprocket was a perfect runner “as is”, so it had to be the aftermarket Oregon.

Sounds like yours is an internal clearance issue though, or lack there of. Can you get a “side to side” play measurement?, as it should be at least 5-10 thou cold.

If no side play exists when fully torqued down, then grind the end off for desired play.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I never have but I have to ask what are you working on. Nice setup for getting it off

Working on a rusted up piece of **** is what it is. Haha. Hopefully someday it will be a restored Poulan F-100

Don't know if I will ever get it going, not sure if I can find the parts needed for it. Definitely need to find some internals. A crank, rod, wrist pin etc.. I have to search out a couple bearings for the gear drive idler gear. I uses two of them 1/2" bore, 1 1/8" OD by 1/4" wide. They might be hard to come by, need to start searching the books.

 

[s sidewall]

Is that a flippy cap on your 445

That was my same thought.

Steve Sidwell

 

[s sidewall]

Anybody ever have to use a grease gun then a Porta Power to get a stuck cylinder off a saw? Believe it or not, I think the cylinder will be fine.. View attachment 807919View attachment 807920

Man that thing looks rough. Good luck with it. I wouldn't mind seeing what it looks like when you get it going. All the internals shot?

Steve Sidwell

 

[fossil]

Working on a rusted up piece of **** is what it is. Haha. Hopefully someday it will be a restored Poulan F-100

Don't know if I will ever get it going, not sure if I can find the parts needed for it. Definitely need to find some internals. A crank, rod, wrist pin etc.. I have to search out a couple bearings for the gear drive idler gear. I uses two of them 1/2" bore, 1 1/8" OD by 1/4" wide. They might be hard to come by, need to start searching the books.

Had a quick look.

Standard R8 bearing.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Had a quick look.

Standard R8 bearing.

Thanks Tim, I will check that out. Good to hear it is standard.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Man that thing looks rough. Good luck with it. I wouldn't mind seeing what it looks like when you get it going. All the internals shot?

Steve Sidwell

Yeah its plenty rough, but you just don't find F-100's very often and this is what you find when you do. Yeah the crank and rod on both are shot. I got a piston and cyl to work with. Got a couple pieces probably will have to be sent out to be welded. The case by the spike and the crankcase side case. Thats the least of the problem.

If and when done and it looks like this, it will be worth it.

 

[Todd Loosli]

That is mighty cool looking, good luck with the project. If you need any machineing I would be glad to help.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Had a quick look.

Standard R8 bearing.

My quick look shows the R8 bearing to be 5/16" wide. I need no more then 1/4" wide.

Then I see a R8 listed that is 1/4" wide. Go figure. https://www.vxb.com/R8-Open-Bearing-1-2-x1-1-8x1-4-inch-p/r8-open-bearing.htm

Then a S5K bearing https://www.vxb.com/S5K-Open-Bearing-1-2-x1-1-8x1-4-inch-p/s5k-open-bearing.htm