Nik's Poulan Thread

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Same thought here, they sure used some strange nomenclature. Poulan aficionado ModifiedMark may have some better insight on this.

The cubic inch displacements (3.6 & 4.5) of those two saws are somewhat incorporated into their model numbers, but not in the same way. I remember that the early 306 saws had a “Thirty-o-Six“ script on the clutch cover label. See the attached picture (copied from an old 2011 Ohiogregg post) with full Garand chargers below.

They kept the 245 as a 200 series saw, & then assigned the 306 to a 300 series. Not sure why though, but it could have been a marketing call as they already had used up model numbers 360 & 361. The 306 & 245 shared a lot of parts except crankshafts, rods, top handles, top covers, top end parts & wrist pin/bearings.

The older Poulan 360 & 361 model have the same cuin as the 306 & even used the same piston & rings.

View attachment 854738
The older 245 also says "Two-Fourty-Five" as well. I've had a few that said it that way on the clutch cover. They were all the pea green as well like the older "Thirty-O-Six" was. All the older ones I've had, had the open face clutches as well.
 
Mine came in a couple days ago. Hope to get it on the Poulan tomorrow and do a couple test cuts with new bar and chain. I'll check spark and let you know it does. Short term anyways.
If you need a coil and don't mind some filing, and drilling you'll be fine with the coil off Amazon.

The Cons: Mounting holes are .03" smaller then factory and bolts wont pass thru. The curvature of the armature is off a little. The trailing end of the armature had to be filed back a bit as well as the area behind the mounting hole in the trailing leg of armature. Couldn't get armature to seat nicely up against magnets. The high tension lead is a little long and you have to tuck it in the opening behind the coil.

On the plus side, it has a good strong spark. The high tension lead has a piece of heat sock on it to protect it from melting on cylinder. This could be good and bad, but the boot is very tight on the plug. I had to make sure I pushed the boot down or it wouldnt clip on to the terminal very well. The coil itself is slightly smaller the factory, which gives you room to tuck the extra tension lead length away.

Life span has yet to be determined, but I am hopeful.
Now to put a few fins in the exhaust to let the motor breath better. I put a couple 7/32" holes in the front behind the shield, but I dont think they are much help.
 
Walbro service manual is where I got the info, but check (pun intended) yours 1st as it may be fine, & yes those checks are still available.

That’s just one of several common HDB & HDC carb issues, as nozzle check “failures to seal“ won’t cause your dry plug, hard to start, nor a high speed issue...just a wonky idle.
Well, my test seemed to fail the vacuum test. Of course I'm assuming i wasn't sucking air escaping from the sides of the test line. Removed the old check valve and ordered a couple new ones. Randy, I presume they pop right in or may need a light tap with a drift.
 
The only way to get the pulley is to buy a starter assembly from ebay and take it apart for the pulley or just change the whole thing.
If someone was to make a replacement they would sell good.
Take care of yourself

Hey Todd have you ever thought of machining 1 up?

I wonder what a big CnC outfit could pump a few dozen out for each. Trouble is three styles of pulleys so which 1 to do.

I'm being gentle to the 3400 setup with the 4000 top end just load it up each pull and no skipping so far fingers crossed
 
Well, my test seemed to fail the vacuum test. Of course I'm assuming i wasn't sucking air escaping from the sides of the test line. Removed the old check valve and ordered a couple new ones. Randy, I presume they pop right in or may need a light tap with a drift.

Yes, a light tap with an appropriately sized socket is all.

Anyone have a source for the 3400 recoil pulley? I've looked high and low w/o any positive results. I at least expected to find an aftermarket supplier.

Bob, yes again. Send me a PM with your mailing info. I’m also surprised that no one makes AFM copies, as they are now difficult to find.

EDIT: Just copied from a fleabay listing...x4 pricing as these used to sell new for $8.99 straight from Poulan. This is an early “no capture screw” type.
Picture 2 of 3

Picture 3 of 3

Poulan 3400 Chainsaw -Starter Pulley- Used Original Part.

$34.99+ $4.00 Shipping
Est. Delivery Wed, Oct 28
 
The only way to get the pulley is to buy a starter assembly from ebay and take it apart for the pulley or just change the whole thing.
If someone was to make a replacement they would sell good.
Take care of yourself
Maybe someone with a 3D printer?
 
Weird flask idea?
Any way has anyone ever measured the squish of the 4200 they have? Before I disassemble mine for bearing replacement I would like to have an idea what the normal is, I tried some soft solder but it's not even getting smooshed by the piston?
 
Weird flask idea?
Any way has anyone ever measured the squish of the 4200 they have? Before I disassemble mine for bearing replacement I would like to have an idea what the normal is, I tried some soft solder but it's not even getting smooshed by the piston?
I am not saying it in the NORMAL but I have seen them in the mid 30's and very low 40's and run good. Make sure the solder goes clear out to the edge of the piston and try it if you didn't. If you did then double it over and smash the double a bit with some flat bill pliers and try it. Are the bearings wore so bad that it has enough slop/play to not be able to measure? If crank, rod and piston bearings are all sloppy who knows.
 
I am not saying it in the NORMAL but I have seen them in the mid 30's and very low 40's and run good. Make sure the solder goes clear out to the edge of the piston and try it if you didn't. If you did then double it over and smash the double a bit with some flat bill pliers and try it. Are the bearings wore so bad that it has enough slop/play to not be able to measure? If crank, rod and piston bearings are all sloppy who knows.
Good point about the bearings, its all left to right movement but it could affect the entire saw I imagine.
The saw does run well but the I'm picky about the crank movement of any kind.
It just seems odd to me that it'll hold itself up by the sarter cord ? Maybe I wasn't going far enough with the solder.
If it is in the 40s I don't think it would crush the small diameter I'm using.
 
Hey Todd have you ever thought of machining 1 up?

I wonder what a big CnC outfit could pump a few dozen out for each. Trouble is three styles of pulleys so which 1 to do.

I'm being gentle to the 3400 setup with the 4000 top end just load it up each pull and no skipping so far fingers crossed
 
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