Nik's Poulan Thread

[redunshee]

I've never seen a red Craftsman 2.3 in the countervibe frame setup, I'm sure they will come out of the woodwork but I've just never seen one. Anyway, I bought the countervibe frame and tank setup off JRP on ebay for some other parts a while back I think I negotiated $20 sent to my house. Anyway, used a couple of parts on another build and still had the bulk of the frame. Well, a 2.3 came up for sale locally that I couldn't pass up for the price and went to check it out. Dirty as you can expect without the top cover but functioned, sparked, and ran with fuel squirt. So, will need a top cover and a lower isolator/vibration rubber mount. (edit: Just to be clear, the engine came out of the frame on the right and is going into the frame on the left. Second pic is post engine swap.)
This Craftsman countervibe 2.3 also has the top handle trigger release setup which I haven't seen on a regular green Poulan xxv countervibe. I'm always impressed to find more different versions of these saws Poulan made. Anyway, need to dig thru my diaphram and fuel pump gaskets to get the carb finished and I believe another Poulan red version will come to life. Then, I'll have the old carcass to box and store probably giving me reason to bring home another project.

View attachment 860897View attachment 860898

Ya know, I've never seen a S25CVA with an operator presence lever either.

 

[Gumneck]

Well the newly swapped 2.3 has come growling to life. The fuel pump diaphragm's a bit stiff on the pumper tabs but soaked in alcohol then soaked in fuel mix softened enough to start and idles decent. I think a new one is in order which I'm fresh out of them. Looking to buy some in bulk I think. Had a spare metering diaphragm. Need to buy a lid and a lower isolator and its complete. I put a green S25 cva lid on it and it actually looks pretty good with the contrast.

Couple pics and some with its sibling Red 2.3. You can see the French instructions below in the first pic.

 

[75jeff]

Well the newly swapped 2.3 has come growling to life. The fuel pump diaphragm's a bit stiff on the pumper tabs but soaked in alcohol then soaked in fuel mix softened enough to start and idles decent. I think a new one is in order which I'm fresh out of them. Looking to buy some in bulk I think. Had a spare metering diaphragm. Need to buy a lid and a lower isolator and its complete. I put a green S25 cva lid on it and it actually looks pretty good with the contrast.

Couple pics and some with its sibling Red 2.3. You can see the French instructions below in the first pic.

 

[75jeff]

View attachment 861287View attachment 861288

My grandpas 2300 cab I recently got going after 10yrs or so of sitting!

 

[ChainLightning]

Finally picked up a 4000. Not too bad for $50. What yall think? Gonna need a av mount and some fuel system work. Was in a box of parts and I pieced it back together tonight.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Finally picked up a 4000. Not too bad for $50. What yall think? Gonna need a av mount and some fuel system work. Was in a box of parts and I pieced it back together tonight. View attachment 861421View attachment 861423

Very nice. Could be the best 50 bucks you ever spent

 

[ChainLightning]

Very nice. Could be the best 50 bucks you ever spent

I honestly have no problem picking up anything green for that price especially a Countervibe. I got a running 395 Pro a few months ago with working chainbrake locally for $35. I think this compliants that very nicely.

 

[75jeff]

Finally picked up a 4000. Not too bad for $50. What yall think? Gonna need a av mount and some fuel system work. Was in a box of parts and I pieced it back together tonight. View attachment 861421View attachment 861423

Good score! Let’s us know how much compression psi it has, I wish I could find the info on how much the 3400-3800-4000 should have?

 

[ChainLightning]

Good score! Let’s us know how much compression psi it has, I wish I could find the info on how much the 3400-3800-4000 should have?

Everyone I've ever had (3400-4000) has been between 90 and 135. Never anything over that. And I've had or worked on well over 40 of them. These saws run lower compression for some reason. The one I had at 90 psi cut the best belive it or not. Ran good till you ran it out of fuel. Then good luck getting it started again till it cooled back off!

 

[Gumneck]

My grandpas 2300 cab I recently got going after 10yrs or so of sitting!

That looks really good plus the lineage is a bonus for you. I have its twin unused by me yet and also some grey craftsman versions that I did use right much. Great saws to rip some limbs off quickly and effortlessly.

 

[hotshot]

I wish I could find the info on how much the 3400-3800-4000 should have?

Just use the advanced search function for past threads in this Poulan sticky section, and then read down through the associated posts.

Start with “3400 compression” by pinnacle members “fossil” or “3000 FPS”, and it brings up quite a few threads & replies about the average values.

I’ve never seen factory Poulan min/max compression values listed in their service or users manual literature.

https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulan-3800-5231/

 

[OhioGregg]

Here is an old post of mine from 2013, when I tested a bunch of my saws compression. Don't know if its a universal thing or not. Just what my saws had.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/niks-poulan-thread.98495/post-4355763

Gregg,

 

[McCullochKid]

Small update on my 3800, I had a funny moment.
Got the carb cleaned out, new gaskets and diaphragm, set the screws back to what they were at, and then put everything back together with a new fuel line and breather line.
Put some fuel in it, gave it a little prime, and two pulls later it was off and running. Everything seemed to work great, so I set it on the ground to idle for a bit while I went to check something else.
I returned and it had stopped running. Gave it a few pulls, nothing. A few more pulls with choke, still nothing. Primed it again with even more pulls, you can see the trend here.

After that I proceeded to get frustrated for the next 15 minutes while I checked that it still had spark and all that stuff, which of course it did. But then it hit me...
The idle screw was all the way out. I tightened it back into place, and sure enough two pulls later the saw was running again. Except this time I watched it and could see the idle screw vibrate itself out again until the saw eventually dies. Guess I got the carb a little too clean, huh?
Anyway, is there any reason why I can't apply a tiny drop of purple or blue threadlocker to help keep things in place?

 

[hotshot]

Small update on my 3800, I had a funny moment.
Got the carb cleaned out, new gaskets and diaphragm, set the screws back to what they were at, and then put everything back together with a new fuel line and breather line.
Put some fuel in it, gave it a little prime, and two pulls later it was off and running. Everything seemed to work great, so I set it on the ground to idle for a bit while I went to check something else.
I returned and it had stopped running. Gave it a few pulls, nothing. A few more pulls with choke, still nothing. Primed it again with even more pulls, you can see the trend here.

After that I proceeded to get frustrated for the next 15 minutes while I checked that it still had spark and all that stuff, which of course it did. But then it hit me...
The idle screw was all the way out. I tightened it back into place, and sure enough two pulls later the saw was running again. Except this time I watched it and could see the idle screw vibrate itself out again until the saw eventually dies. Guess I got the carb a little too clean, huh?
Anyway, is there any reason why I can't apply a tiny drop of purple or blue threadlocker to help keep things in place?

Is there a currently a plastic “friction piece“ stuck inside the little hole in the idle screw bore?, or is there a compression spring under the idle screw head? Kind of a cheesy design using a plastic insert.

The IPL shows two different options for the idle screw. Mine was missing, and finding that discontinued Zama idle screw was a real pain, as it was the taper tip type.

I think I had to melt a head on a short piece of nylon weed-eater cutting line to replace the lost “friction piece“, item 29, plus used the Loctite. I’ll look at it again this weekend.

I would definitely count 3 turns out (after tuning), cover those 3 threads in blue 242 Loctite, & then run it in back in 3 turns.

You’ll still be able to adjust it, blue is not that tight.

 

[ChainLightning]

Couple of pics from my "Storage" room. Out of all my vintage saws the Poulans get the shelf treatment (and some big cc Homelites). These are pretty hard to find in Michigan and it took me a few years. Nothing special, but they are to me.

 

[ChainLightning]

Small update on my 3800, I had a funny moment.
Got the carb cleaned out, new gaskets and diaphragm, set the screws back to what they were at, and then put everything back together with a new fuel line and breather line.
Put some fuel in it, gave it a little prime, and two pulls later it was off and running. Everything seemed to work great, so I set it on the ground to idle for a bit while I went to check something else.
I returned and it had stopped running. Gave it a few pulls, nothing. A few more pulls with choke, still nothing. Primed it again with even more pulls, you can see the trend here.

After that I proceeded to get frustrated for the next 15 minutes while I checked that it still had spark and all that stuff, which of course it did. But then it hit me...
The idle screw was all the way out. I tightened it back into place, and sure enough two pulls later the saw was running again. Except this time I watched it and could see the idle screw vibrate itself out again until the saw eventually dies. Guess I got the carb a little too clean, huh?
Anyway, is there any reason why I can't apply a tiny drop of purple or blue threadlocker to help keep things in place?

Id use antiseize. Should give it just enough "texture" to keep it from vibrating out, but unlike loctite you can still adjust it without having to apply more each time you adjust it.

 

[FamilyTradition]

I honestly have no problem picking up anything green for that price especially a Countervibe. I got a running 395 Pro a few months ago with working chainbrake locally for $35. I think this compliants that very nicely.

I'd love to see a picture of your PP 395. I've been trying to acquire one of those for a long time. One with a chain brake is even better in my opinion. Good for you, look forward to seeing pictures at your convenience! Max.

 

[Oliver2150]

How's everything going everybody? Haven't posted anything since probably March. Spring came around and of course busy farm life took over. I have recently been on again lurking in the background trying to catch up on everything. Figured I'd share my purchase today. Wasn't really looking for one. Really more interested in finding 4000 or bigger equivalent Poulan saws but that's worse than pulling teeth to find here in north eastern Ohio. Picked up this Craftsman 3.3 today along with a newer little Craftsman saw for $30. Gentleman said he was the original owner of this 3.3. Ran 3 tanks of gas through it and then put it up on a shelf where it sat for years. He got it out recently to clean up some storm damage and couldn't get it to run. He had a friend mess with it and ended up breaking some fuel lines on it. So with that said another winter time project to add to the others I have picked up so far to play with this winter. He said that's the original bar and chain on it as well. Thought it was pretty cool so figured I'd share.

 

[s sidewall]

Here is an old post of mine from 2013, when I tested a bunch of my saws compression. Don't know if its a universal thing or not. Just what my saws had.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/niks-poulan-thread.98495/post-4355763

Gregg,

That picture sure looks familiar.

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk

 

[McCullochKid]

This 3800 is determined to give me trouble... Went to check it out again after giving some blue threadlocker time to set on the idle screw. A few pulls and off it goes, idles and revs fine, automatic oil working, all great.
Except now I'm noticing that the longer the saw is running and the warmer it gets that it starts to bog down. First it doesn't want to idle without throttle, then eventually the throttle starts bogging down too and it dies. Have to let it sit for awhile before you can restart it. Interestingly the Hi/Lo screws appear to be having little to no effect. Think I still have a problem somewhere in the carb?