Sounds good!
Are you looking for a smaller pro saw? Like an 034 or something, trades possible?here is a couple pics of the saw.
Maybe.......... I have a couple of the farm saws but neither of them are working now for one reason or another. I just haven't had time to mess with them.Are you looking for a smaller pro saw? Like an 034 or something, trades possible?
When you say rebuilt carb twice did that mean you replaced diaphragms? Also, did you check the metering height for the needle valve.So, been working on my dads 2150 and for the life of me I can't keep a tune on it. I can get it started and let it idle for a couple minutes then I'll give it partial throttle until it's good and warm then I'll tune the idle until it starts to 4 stroke then I set idle screw. I do a rough setting on high needle then let it come back to idle and readjust if needed. I burp the throttle a couple times to make sure accel is good then I shut it off. Start it back up and it just won't idle for crap and often it bogs on throttle. Repeat the process and same results.
Saw has good compression, drops about 2psi over a minute or so and holds vacuum with no loss. Rebuilt carb twice with a good run thru UC both times. I replaced vents, filter and everything I can think of. I can tip the saw on both sides while idling and it'll stall out if I don't flip it back (happens on both sides) so I don't think seals are bad.
I looked at p&c thru exhaust and nothing stood out. I didn't use my bore scope though. Is it possible p&c are damaged and I can't see anything and causing my problem?
Yep, I was going to say that too as he said just the opposite....It sure does sound like an air leak to me. When you tip a saw and it changes the tune, that can mean crankseals.
would replace the crankseals and go over any area that can cause an air leak.
I replaced all diaphragms and removed Welch plugs on 2nd cleaning as I didn't have them at 1st rebuild. The 1st gasket kit I used was a Chinese kit,so I bought a genuine kit the 2nd time. I always set/check metering valve on every carb.When you say rebuilt carb twice did that mean you replaced diaphragms? Also, did you check the metering height for the needle valve.
In my experience when the tune changes when you tip the saw they always tach up because of extra air being pulled in. I'm not saying that that is the rule just my experience. Last few saws I've done with bad seals (boys 4018 is latest) it wouldn't even start. Now those seals were really bad so not a real good example.It sure does sound like an air leak to me. When you tip a saw and it changes the tune, that can mean crankseals.
would replace the crankseals and go over any area that can cause an air leak.
I did. Have 5 but the Operator presence lever intrigued me.Saw went for $41 which I was surprised it didnt go higher. Maybe you got it.
Nice Poulan, grew up with bow saws in Louisiana in the 70's. Great for firewood and pulp wood cutting. I have a nice 361 to rebuild "someday", with a bow. I have two old 3400s one I am looking to convert to bow if i could find one..here is a couple pics of the saw.
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