Nik's Poulan Thread

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Probably less than a hour if we are talking about a 3400 and a LRB piston. Now if you are talking about a poulan 4000 with chrome bore and a LRB piston i have one that has 23 tanks of fuel and it looks new. Difference is the 3400 piston should be chrome plated and it's not. The 4000 has the chrome plated bore and needs a plain unplated piston. 3700 is the same as 4000 and 3800 is the same as 3400.
 
I understand either the bore or the piston is unplated on these saws, I know some small-engine 4-strokes use aluminum bores and aluminum pistons however they turn 3600 rpm.I find it amazing that a company would sell such an item knowing it would have a short to no lifespan.
 
That’s good information to know.

Both LRB pistons I purchased over the years were returned. One was for a 2-1/8” bore Homelite XL-925 that was fit with fat metric rings, not thins; and then a Poulan 245 that was also metric ringed, rings end gapped at 0.025” new, & also cast too cold causing many open pores. Advertisement stated that these were factory repros, but they were not.

LRB Lee banned me after returning the second piston, and the feeling was mutual...

You’re probably starting to burn the wood stove down under there, as we’re already hitting 35C or 95F high temps here!

I do remember might have been Brian having a LRB 82cc piston with a ring groove too shallow. Or was it Mark. Ages ago anyway but yeah otherwise yeah the Mac pistons seem OK.

Terrible customer service well none really kinda wrecks what could be a really cool little company keeping old saws alive:(

Yeah fire is definitely going every evening now but had it very easy so far only a couple frosts

As soon as something rolls up from Antarctica that will be it
 
Well Todd,I got the oil pump pulled out of the 3400 today.I think I screrwed up though.When I was pulling the pump,the 2 lines were intertwined & I pulled a bit too far & the line that goes to the bar pad came out with the pick up line.Is it gonna be a biotch to get it back in?
The 1st pic is of the pump area before I cleaned out all the crud.The 2nd pic is of the pump out.
 

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I've been doing a little thinking & by time I get done paying shipping round trip plus your repair time,I might be ahead to see about getting a new pump.I know it won't be cheap,but I know it should be good for the life of the saw.No offense.I gotta give old Buford a call & see what he wants for a new pump.If it's $50 or more he can keep it.
 
It isn't hard to fix what you have done. First big no no is don't use high pressure air on the inside of the pump you can blow apart the check valves 2 that are in there. Tomorrow afternoon I'll be free and will get you back on track. I have extra pumps so don't worry about that.
 
Way to go Bob they could be a good set of saws, keep us posted
Did a ton of cleaning on the 3.7. Seems complete and may be pulling the rope later today. Found the standard: no fuel filter, Inlet screen packed & pancake syrup in the tank scenario!! Metering diaphragm kinda stretched so it may not run but a kit is on the way.
 
Nope :ices_rofl:. I told him sell them local and if still there in a few weeks I will get back.

I really didnt want them but they had a buy me price. Would just been part saws here. :cheers:
Ok. I always hate to get something someone else was really wanting. I'm a fix and sell guy mostly and occasionally find one I want to keep.
 
It isn't hard to fix what you have done. First big no no is don't use high pressure air on the inside of the pump you can blow apart the check valves 2 that are in there. Tomorrow afternoon I'll be free and will get you back on track. I have extra pumps so don't worry about that.
Thanks Todd!While looking through my 3700 IPL I saw what appears to be a rebuilt kit?Would be item #42.Just thinking with all the crud that was on the outside of the pump that most likely the check valves are plugged or have sludgy goo in them causing them to stick.Possibly soaking the pumps in something like Seafoam would free them up?
 
Pull the pump piston and spring out, button looking.20220519_073856.jpg
The check valves are the silver ring and the hole below it. Get a syringe with no needle and flush with sea foam. Low pressure air is ok. Start soaking the diaphragm in armorall. Cut some new gaskets and when you put it together be careful and don't tighten to tight or you can bend the silver cover it's soft. I'll be back early afternoon.
 
Ok. I always hate to get something someone else was really wanting. I'm a fix and sell guy mostly and occasionally find one I want to keep.

I cant move countervibe saws, so I started just parting them.

I still have a 3.7 that is a thin ring 3700 and a sold as 3.0 18" that is really a 3.4 3400 to move. I am trying my best to keep them whole being I done went through them.

Already parted out one 3.7 thin ring saw and the other 3.7 3800 sold whole.

4000's I can move quickly most times.

c3730.jpgc37300.jpgc3037.jpg
 
I just got off the phone with Buford down in Ky.& he told me that a new pump is $50 & a diaphragm is $20.He also said that in 90% of cases the pump only needs a new diaphragm to get it going again.
I hope when I open up the pump it won't be a jack-in-the-box with springs flying out like on a carb.I have had the pump apart on a S25DA & it was quite simple.
 

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