Nothing to jump out. If you can get a diaphragm for 20 that is a good deal and probably only thing needed. You will need a pickup hose and hope you have the end. Fuel line is okay.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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I'll order the diaphragm & wait to pull the pump apart.No sense in pulling the pump apart & have little parts & screws laying about getting lost whiole waiting fort parts.I have the pick up,it's on the end of the line,which is in good shape.
How difficult is it to put the discharge line back in place?
Been awhile since I've visited Poulan Land. I find myself needing to sort out a few smaller ones for a guy and probably should start going through my own while I'm at it.
Is there a secret source for 1800 ~ 2300 pistons and rings besides the pile of saws in the corner? Even just rings would be helpful. Thin ones in particular. I believe they're 1.6mm? Google doesn't yield much.
TIA for any enlightenment.
Is there a secret source for 1800 ~ 2300 pistons and rings besides the pile of saws in the corner? Even just rings would be helpful. Thin ones in particular. I believe they're 1.6mm? Google doesn't yield much.
TIA for any enlightenment.
As expected she won't pull fuel. Tries but can't quite get it past where the line comes through the tank. Will try priming it but not really expecting it to work.
Gonna need some air filter cover items. If you have any loose I'd be interested.
I have a 4000 and it impressed me.
Okay back to the oil pump.
To fix the output line you will need to remove the nut at the end of the line.
To fix the output line you will need to remove the nut at the end of the line.
There is a Ferrell under the nut and it is a 1/8 and you need a new one.
You need a piece of wire that will fit inside the line, 1/16 works.
You feed the wire in from the outside where the nut was. And bend it so it comes out where the pump mounts. Feed the line over the wire back to the discharge hole and let it stick out a bit. Put the Farrel on then the nut and tighten it flush with the end almost.
You need a piece of wire that will fit inside the line, 1/16 works.
You feed the wire in from the outside where the nut was. And bend it so it comes out where the pump mounts. Feed the line over the wire back to the discharge hole and let it stick out a bit. Put the Farrel on then the nut and tighten it flush with the end almost.
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Inside view 
I have to even order new for the 34-38. Their mostly trash when they come in.
Well to answer the question on how long my 3400 lasted, about a half a tank when I noticed power loss. I pulled the muffler and noticed the piston didn't look shinny anymore. I pulled the cylinder and found the piston look like someone had ran a grinder all over it. Messed up my cylinder I had to wait over three months on to get. A guy at work had gotten the cylinder and of course that weekend I had my car got crushed with me in it.
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Reason I haven't been on lately is because my TapaTalk app isn't working with arboristsite any more for some reason, So now I have to pull it up on my browser.
Ok. Not positive what I need yet. These saws are new to me.
Curiosity got the best of me & I had to pull the pump apart to see what I was in for.The pic I'm going to post could be considered pornographic in nature.I've never seen anything like it,the pump was filled with so much dirt & sawdust I can understand why it wouldn't work anymore.The reason why was because the pick up line was broken just above the pick up & the pump was sucking unfiltered oil.On the other hand,whoever had the saw should be horsewhipped for letting so much stuff get into the oil tank in the first place.It looks like every time they added oil they just flicked all the surrounding sawdust into the tank.I've got the diaphragm ordered from Parrish Implements in Ky.Buford's been a Poulan/Wright dealer for over 50 yrs.
I'm thinking of running the pump through my ultrasonic cleaner with Seafoam.
I'm thinking of running the pump through my ultrasonic cleaner with Seafoam.
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Wow I have never seen a pump that plugged and dirty. Do what ever you can to clean it. The check valves are easy to clean and very seldom junk unless high pressure air is used.
It always seems to me that no matter what brand of saw there is I always manage to find the worst one that anyone has ever seen.the sprocket was worn so bad that the drum tilted about 3/16 in.up & down.A new sprocket is on the way,thankfully the bearing is still good.And yet when I first got the saw back in the winter all I needed to do to get it running was change the plug & the fuel filter.
Something else I noticed,there's a strong odor of fuel when the saw is on it's side (fuel cap up).Maybe just needs a new O-ring on the cap?
Something else I noticed,there's a strong odor of fuel when the saw is on it's side (fuel cap up).Maybe just needs a new O-ring on the cap?
If anyone has the time, I would greatly appreciate a good pic of an air filter and cover for the black and gray craftsman 3.3 I have. They were missing when I got it and I don't want to order the wrong part. Near impossible to get an electronic ipl.
Thanks on advance!
Thanks on advance!
I just seen it said AF cover. I thought you meant AF itself. Guessing for the later one 3.3
Ya I have plenty of that AF cover.
The AF and cover you would be better off buying another parts saw with a good AF IMHO. Just a NOS filter cost more then paid for part saw.
Dont know if any used usable AF's left. Maybe some in used that need reflocked or covered.
Thanks a million. At least I'm sure about what I'm looking for now!
You got a part number for that diaphragm?
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