FATGUY
Addicted to ArboristSite
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2008
- Messages
- 6,535
- Reaction score
- 1,547
mornin' Gregg, Steve
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
FATGUY
Addicted to ArboristSite
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2008
- Messages
- 6,535
- Reaction score
- 1,547
I was without a home computer for a while and don't alway have time to post at work as much as I'd like. We bought my oldest a new laptop for christmas and I now have her old one.
I didn't see the what that 505 ended at. But, your right, Mark would have a LOT more than four transactions..LOL What did it sell for?
Gregg,
Went for $357. Mornin' Gregg!
Mornin' Nik! Yeah, need to see ya more 'round here.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
lol
yes i want a pristeen green 25da some day and i have been trying for a cva!!!! thought i had one a week ago and the deal some how fell apart still not sure what happened guy was supposed to relist it never did? yes once i get those 2 i will be on the hunt for some bigger ones . if they run like the25sda ones power to weight i mean i will be very happy!:hmm3grin2orange:
yes i want a pristeen green 25da some day and i have been trying for a cva!!!! thought i had one a week ago and the deal some how fell apart still not sure what happened guy was supposed to relist it never did? yes once i get those 2 i will be on the hunt for some bigger ones . if they run like the25sda ones power to weight i mean i will be very happy!:hmm3grin2orange:
Bob: Yah got too many zeros. How about 0.625" x 0.875" x 0.125" ?
The CR number for that size seal is 6120 HMS1.
I'd expect that the actual outside diameter of a new seal to be 0.8755"-0.8765" (MAX!).
0.001" interfearence fit is a lot on a diameter of 0.875"
I guess I'm lucky as the first Poulan tophandle I came up with is a S25CVA. Also its' first cousin a Craftsman 2.3".
Which of the little 25s is the most desireable, and why?
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yup. an extra zero in the OD and height. Thanks. 6120 HMS1 is from which manuf.? The Timken number is 253747.
Bob
Last edited:
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Brad, its my opinion that ths S25Da and S25cva are the most desireable. Both have and manual and auto oiling. The CVA is the anti-vibe version. Both are 2.3 and 38cc(designated by the S). Very well built and very strong for a 38cc saw.
Bob
I was surprised how strong the one being given away in the fundraiser thread is. That got my attention. I assume these are reed saws?
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
I didn't see the what that 505 ended at. But, your right, Mark would have a LOT more than four transactions..LOL What did it sell for?
Gregg,
$357 and change. Seller told me comp was 180.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sure is. Issue with the saw is that the carb adjustment screws are under the top cover. You have to remove the cover to adjust the lo and hi speed as well as idle.
nthums1
ArboristSite Member
3500 fuel vent
Hi Guys, been a long time since I was around. Last situation was concerns over the fuel venting on a 3500 which certainly is not as shown on IPL.
There was discussion that it might be hidden on the side of the tank as some other models and I was going to tear it down till I could get at that location. But got busy with other issues.
Time arrived to put up some equipment away.
I tried to fire up the 3500 and it just would not perform, sluggish, hesitant to rev and not going to full throttle.
Well, temps had dropped considerably since the last time I fired up and as I opened fuel tank I heard the release of vacuum. It then fired up fine for a short run.
These 3500 definitely need the fuel vent added. The lack of it causing lean running resulting in scored piston and froze ring are now very obvious.
So if you talk to a Poulan tech and he insists the parts shown on IPL are not needed don't listen to him.
If you play with carb settings you may reach a point where it runs fairly well, but it is now obvious to me that the first part of the fill would then be rich and the longer you run it without checking fuel level the leaner it will get. And then damaged piston, ring, and possibly cylinder wall.
Hi Guys, been a long time since I was around. Last situation was concerns over the fuel venting on a 3500 which certainly is not as shown on IPL.
There was discussion that it might be hidden on the side of the tank as some other models and I was going to tear it down till I could get at that location. But got busy with other issues.
Time arrived to put up some equipment away.
I tried to fire up the 3500 and it just would not perform, sluggish, hesitant to rev and not going to full throttle.
Well, temps had dropped considerably since the last time I fired up and as I opened fuel tank I heard the release of vacuum. It then fired up fine for a short run.
These 3500 definitely need the fuel vent added. The lack of it causing lean running resulting in scored piston and froze ring are now very obvious.
So if you talk to a Poulan tech and he insists the parts shown on IPL are not needed don't listen to him.
If you play with carb settings you may reach a point where it runs fairly well, but it is now obvious to me that the first part of the fill would then be rich and the longer you run it without checking fuel level the leaner it will get. And then damaged piston, ring, and possibly cylinder wall.
Is the 38cc topend a direct replacement on the 33cc saws?
Last edited:
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
thomas72
Addicted to ArboristSite
If I am not mistaken I believe the older super 25 saws had a longer stroke but a smaller bore. The newer versions had a shorter stroke, but larger bore. It has been years since I have had them apart that far.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
tough lil saw
I have 2 of the older plain 25 saws and they really seem solid!!! the sound great also with the stack muffler no need for opening that up hahah!!!!
I have 2 of the older plain 25 saws and they really seem solid!!! the sound great also with the stack muffler no need for opening that up hahah!!!!
partsman51
ArboristSite Member
so turns out that the mark on the cover was just where the indent was formed during manufacture, when I loosend off the rope pulley it came free, so put it back on and the cord pulled and saw fired up for a quick second or two so now if I pull it a few times the rope can hang up, so just have to find out what is sticking, otherwise the saw appears fine.
Now I just have to work on the other one, but as it pulls and all it should just need some fuel and it should run.
Not bad for two free saws and the Ridgid Vacuum he gave me is fine too, used it the other day, it is a 6 gallon model.
so I did alright.
Now I just have to work on the other one, but as it pulls and all it should just need some fuel and it should run.
Not bad for two free saws and the Ridgid Vacuum he gave me is fine too, used it the other day, it is a 6 gallon model.
so I did alright.
So sad to say really good neighbour behind us is moving away, he is a concrete guy, does all the fancy stamped concrete and such, so anyway he is cleaning out his garage and he ends up giving me a shop vac, then he mentions he has two saws one a wildthing 18" and a Craftsman 14", one seemed alright, though I did not try to start any of them, but he mentions the wildthing was some kind of seized up, they flooded it, so that is why it won't turn, so he figured just take out the spark plug and it should free it up.
Well I brought them home and tonight took the starter cover off and the flywheel turns real nice, so if you can tell by the last picture I believe a very small but heavy gouge in that cover, hmm that is what is holding it back, so now just have to see about trying to knock it back out and saw should be good to go.
Then I can tinker with the 14" one, it should be alright after a clean up and good fuel.
Like he said, he is not a mechanic, and he knew I knew a bit, so am looking forward to making them all run.
