Nik's Poulan Thread

[FATGUY]

I'm putting the finishing touches on that overdue Poulan "Pro" 4218 rebuild and have to get the basic settings of the H and L needles, .... before I realized that poor compression was my problem I started messing with these settings and assume they are fubar; in the absence of knowledge I set them at 1 1/2 turns (360* plus 90*); also I ran into an unexpected snag with the chain brake: there's a strong spring that needs to be compressed and held that way as the sub-assembly goes on the side. Similar assemblies have had conveniently placed holes where a drill bit would hold a spring until placed, then the bit is pulled out, releasing the spring. No such luck here. If necessary I can drill some for myself, but there may be a smarter way. If anyone knows what I'm rabbiting on about I'd appreciate getting a pointer or four, ... thanks , ... :jester:

I don't think I can help you with the brake but as fa as the carb goes, if it won't start/stay running, I'd start turning the screws in. I usually start at 1 to 1 1/4 out on carbs I rebuild.

 

[rms61moparman]

I'm putting the finishing touches on that overdue Poulan "Pro" 4218 rebuild and have to get the basic settings of the H and L needles, .... before I realized that poor compression was my problem I started messing with these settings and assume they are fubar; in the absence of knowledge I set them at 1 1/2 turns (360* plus 90*); also I ran into an unexpected snag with the chain brake: there's a strong spring that needs to be compressed and held that way as the sub-assembly goes on the side. Similar assemblies have had conveniently placed holes where a drill bit would hold a spring until placed, then the bit is pulled out, releasing the spring. No such luck here. If necessary I can drill some for myself, but there may be a smarter way. If anyone knows what I'm rabbiting on about I'd appreciate getting a pointer or four, ... thanks , ... :jester:

360 + 90 isn't one and a half, it is 1 and 1/4.
360 +180 is one and one half.


Mike

 

[Eccentric]

Who was it that needed a Banana Bar in here? i got one that will fit a poulan and some other saws it is a 3/8 20 inch PRO-AM bar. and it's in good condition and the sprocket moves freely too. i took and cleaned the dust off of it and greased the tip on it.i got pictures in the swapmeet thread if anyone is interested give me a PM and we will work something out. i need parts for a 3800 poulan maybe a good piston and clinder or a parts saw would be nice

I think that was Chris T (Thieroff).

Since you giys are on a black handle 4000 kick, here's mine....
With the 24" bar

Another looker. Nice 4000 Dave!

 

[OhioGregg]

CAD= Chainsaw Acquisition Disease (or disorder depending on whom you talk to)

The older Poulans are so desirable because there was a time.....not so very long ago.....When an AMERICAN chainsaw company set the bar for all others to strive for.
That company was Poulan and those are the saws.


Mike

I agree with everything Mike just said. I don't know if being American made meant much to some or not back then. I know it did for me! Thats why I bought my first one, a 3400, in Feb. or March of 1986.
I think too, that a lot of younger members here that weren't around back in the old days, don't realize that they were not a cheap saw either back when. I paid close to $300 with tax for my 3400 with 18" bar. Its easy to think they were cheap back then, cause you can find them for next to nothing now days. Although they have been going up lately with the resurgence in popularity of old saws. Due in great part to this site..LOL

Gregg,

 

[kmcinms]

NOPE!!!


They are junk from the get go.
Just send it to me and I'll dispose of it for you in a proper manner!!!LOL


It is only worth fixing if you want the greatest "ALL AROUND" 56cc saw ever made!

There are faster saws and there are lighter saws.
There may even have been a tougher saw or a cheaper saw.

BUT

For a smooth, light, fast, cheap, reliable saw that is built like a tank and soooo simple to work on, I'm not sure the 3400 can be matched even by the best saws of today!

And yes I may be prejudiced because it was the first saw I ever owned, bought on credit and paid off with my own labor, but I have always been a guy that wants the mostest for the leastest.
The 3400 still fits that niche very nicely.


Mike

Mike, I think you might like 3400s:msp_tongue:.


FIRED the 3400 up tonight!

It wasn't sparking yesterday when I pulled it over and it didn't spark till about the 3rd or 4th pull tonight, but it is sparking strong right now.
I sloshed some fuel in the tank and down the hole and fired that puppy up. AIR leak!! Manifold gasket is all busted up, and the saw is sucking air, but it is running.
Now, about that statement ; sooooooo simple to work on, Mike :msp_tongue:. Do you have to pull the jug to get the manifold off? I didn't work on it too long, but the manifold didn't slide right out of the housing . I was heading in and just decided to take a quick look at it again tonight so I didn't put a lot of effort into it. I'll look at it a bit closer tomorrow.

Poor ole saw only has 90psi, but she fired up after a good priming. I think I'll pull the jug tomorrow and see if the rings are stuck. Rings are fairly cheap for these saws. From the looks of the cylinder it looks clean.

 

[joe25DA]

I agree with everything Mike just said. I don't know if being American made meant much to some or not back then. I know it did for me! Thats why I bought my first one, a 3400, in Feb. or March of 1986.
I think too, that a lot of younger members here that weren't around back in the old days, don't realize that they were not a cheap saw either back when. I paid close to $300 with tax for my 3400 with 18" bar. Its easy to think they were cheap back then, cause you can find them for next to nothing now days. Although they have been going up lately with the resurgence in popularity of old saws. Due in great part to this site..LOL

Gregg,

Id fall into the younger category I guess, I do know this tho. When I bought my 4000 the original owner told me he paid around $460 for it in 1984.
And being made in the USA means a lot to me

 

[Mastermind]

I'm building a Poulan 330/Craftsman Frankensaw. Posted a thread in the CS forum, thought you guys might want the check in out. :msp_biggrin:

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/168259.htm

 

[mweba]

Adding carb info for the 3450. Looked for a 137 as suggested but all I had was a HDA 77 (15.7mm). Stock was a 164 (16.66mm) and was running the 49 to get me by (12.7mm). to make the 77 work I had to swap the impulse barb out of the 164 and spin the fuel pickup around to match the oe.

Throttle response is greatly improved over the 49 and still idles as should.

 

[OhioGregg]

Mike, I think you might like 3400s:msp_tongue:.


FIRED the 3400 up tonight!

It wasn't sparking yesterday when I pulled it over and it didn't spark till about the 3rd or 4th pull tonight, but it is sparking strong right now.
I sloshed some fuel in the tank and down the hole and fired that puppy up. AIR leak!! Manifold gasket is all busted up, and the saw is sucking air, but it is running.
Now, about that statement ; sooooooo simple to work on, Mike :msp_tongue:. Do you have to pull the jug to get the manifold off? I didn't work on it too long, but the manifold didn't slide right out of the housing . I was heading in and just decided to take a quick look at it again tonight so I didn't put a lot of effort into it. I'll look at it a bit closer tomorrow.

Poor ole saw only has 90psi, but she fired up after a good priming. I think I'll pull the jug tomorrow and see if the rings are stuck. Rings are fairly cheap for these saws. From the looks of the cylinder it looks clean.

I'll put my 2 cents in till Mike can weigh in..LOL Its not impossible to change the manifold without taking the jug off. But if it were me, thats what I would do. Your almost there anyway. Just 4 more screws.
The manifold screws are hard to get at properly because of the rear of the case. Thats ONE thing I have learned pretty quickly from tinkering with these saws. Always want to put the manifold on before installing the cyl.

Its kinda like, Did ya ever see a woman take off her bra without taking off her shirt? LOL It can be done, but I think I would just take off my shirt first.

Gregg,

 

[rms61moparman]

Mike, I think you might like 3400s:msp_tongue:.


FIRED the 3400 up tonight!

It wasn't sparking yesterday when I pulled it over and it didn't spark till about the 3rd or 4th pull tonight, but it is sparking strong right now.
I sloshed some fuel in the tank and down the hole and fired that puppy up. AIR leak!! Manifold gasket is all busted up, and the saw is sucking air, but it is running.
Now, about that statement ; sooooooo simple to work on, Mike :msp_tongue:. Do you have to pull the jug to get the manifold off? I didn't work on it too long, but the manifold didn't slide right out of the housing . I was heading in and just decided to take a quick look at it again tonight so I didn't put a lot of effort into it. I'll look at it a bit closer tomorrow.

Poor ole saw only has 90psi, but she fired up after a good priming. I think I'll pull the jug tomorrow and see if the rings are stuck. Rings are fairly cheap for these saws. From the looks of the cylinder it looks clean.

Like Gregg said It's not impossible to R/R the manifold without removing the cylinder but it is MUCH easier.
If your saw only has 90 psi of comp you are going to want to look in there anyway.
Get yourself a tube of Permatex Moto-Seal and lose the gasket while it is off. These saws are notorious for having miles of extra room in the squish.


Mike

 

[FATGUY]

I'll put my 2 cents in till Mike can weigh in..LOL Its not impossible to change the manifold without taking the jug off. But if it were me, thats what I would do. Your almost there anyway. Just 4 more screws.
The manifold screws are hard to get at properly because of the rear of the case. Thats ONE thing I have learned pretty quickly from tinkering with these saws. Always want to put the manifold on before installing the cyl.

Its kinda like, Did ya ever see a woman take off her bra without taking off her shirt? LOL It can be done, but I think I would just take off my shirt first.

Gregg,

Like Gregg said It's not impossible to R/R the manifold without removing the cylinder but it is MUCH easier.
If your saw only has 90 psi of comp you are going to want to look in there anyway.
Get yourself a tube of Permatex Moto-Seal and lose the gasket while it is off. These saws are notorious for having miles of extra room in the squish.


Mike

:agree2: BTW Gregg, that's a hell of an analogy

 

[67 Mustang]

:agree2: BTW Gregg, that's a hell of an analogy

:agree2: Easy to see what's on his mind. I think the boy needs to get him something more regular! :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[OhioGregg]

:agree2: Easy to see what's on his mind. I think the boy needs to get him something more regular! :hmm3grin2orange:

lol, No Steve, I have had enough of regular, a number of years ago!:msp_tongue: The only thing this boy needs, is fine old green saw to tangle with occasionally.

Gregg,

 

[kmcinms]

I'll put my 2 cents in till Mike can weigh in..LOL Its not impossible to change the manifold without taking the jug off. But if it were me, thats what I would do. Your almost there anyway. Just 4 more screws.
The manifold screws are hard to get at properly because of the rear of the case. Thats ONE thing I have learned pretty quickly from tinkering with these saws. Always want to put the manifold on before installing the cyl.

Its kinda like, Did ya ever see a woman take off her bra without taking off her shirt? LOL It can be done, but I think I would just take off my shirt first.

Gregg,

Yup

Like Gregg said It's not impossible to R/R the manifold without removing the cylinder but it is MUCH easier.
If your saw only has 90 psi of comp you are going to want to look in there anyway.
Get yourself a tube of Permatex Moto-Seal and lose the gasket while it is off. These saws are notorious for having miles of extra room in the squish.


Mike

That was the intention, popping the jug off today. was late last night and didn't have any more time to fool with it.
Thanks for the heads up on intake/jug R&R. will INSTALL manifold before jug :msp_wink:

Somehow both metering screws are bent on this carb, anyone out there got a spare set?

 

[7hpjim]

3400

My local dealer has a running 3400 counter vibe for $75 , the only flaw I noticed was a bent handle bar, I have no interest in this saw but If anyone here is interested I can check it out further.
Jim

 

[Denman123a]

I don't think I can help you with the brake but as fa as the carb goes, if it won't start/stay running, I'd start turning the screws in. I usually start at 1 to 1 1/4 out on carbs I rebuild.

Got that thanks, I'll set them to 360*, ...and Mike y're right about my turns and degrees, ... ain't been quite right since I left college, .. :msp_wink:

 

[dave76]

Great looking saw. Also see Bud, Corona and a green glassed beer.
Bob

The green bottle is Ballantine Ale...

 

[dave76]

Id fall into the younger category I guess, I do know this tho. When I bought my 4000 the original owner told me he paid around $460 for it in 1984.
And being made in the USA means a lot to me

Yes in todays money that would be over $700, for a Poulan.......

 

[StinkyBunny]

How good is a Poulan 340? The ad say Poland 340, lol.

 

[rms61moparman]

How good is a Poulan 340? The ad say Poland 340, lol.

To my knowledge, there is no such critter!!!

A Poulan 3400 is a real nice 56cc saw, see my post above!!!LOL


Mike