Nik's Poulan Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Waiting for some gaskets to set on a Golf Cart last night, I decided to tear into my 3450. From what I have seen in videos, mine is weak and has never run quite right. Went through two carbs and ended up with main jet nozzle trouble on both. Tonight I swapped it out for the HDA-49 on the 3.3 parts saw. Venturi is smaller but at least I get a consistent idle now. Is this the carb most swap to?

Side note...they take to a porting very well.
 
Poulan Model 91

Anyone ever heard of a poulan 91? These are the only two pics avail.

<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d152/-Scar-Face/Poulan%20Model%2091/?action=view&amp;current=91b.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d152/-Scar-Face/Poulan%20Model%2091/91b.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d152/-Scar-Face/Poulan%20Model%2091/?action=view&amp;current=91a.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d152/-Scar-Face/Poulan%20Model%2091/91a.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
Waiting for some gaskets to set on a Golf Cart last night, I decided to tear into my 3450. From what I have seen in videos, mine is weak and has never run quite right. Went through two carbs and ended up with main jet nozzle trouble on both. Tonight I swapped it out for the HDA-49 on the 3.3 parts saw. Venturi is smaller but at least I get a consistent idle now. Is this the carb most swap to?

Side note...they take to a porting very well.

What # HDA did you have to start with? I know some of the Poulan Pro 330's had some idle problems with the HDA-164.

The HDA-137 is the earlier one that no one seemed to have problems with and has the same larger venturi as the 164.

My 330 had its funky 164 replaced by Poulan with a 137 and the problems were solved.

I have a 137 here that I plan on putting on my PP365 to see if it runs any stronger then the smaller 49. I'm betting money that it will. :rock:

Just have not gotten around to it yet!
 
Who was it that needed a Banana Bar in here? i got one that will fit a poulan and some other saws it is a 3/8 20 inch PRO-AM bar. and it's in good condition and the sprocket moves freely too. i took and cleaned the dust off of it and greased the tip on it.i got pictures in the swapmeet thread if anyone is interested give me a PM and we will work something out. i need parts for a 3800 poulan maybe a good piston and clinder or a parts saw would be nice
 
Last edited:
Yes the 164, forgot to mention that. It had the exact same symptoms of the 359/357 carb nozzle issue. Can't comment on the performance difference as the 164 was never right. I will keep my eyes open for a 137.
 
Yes the 164, forgot to mention that. It had the exact same symptoms of the 359/357 carb nozzle issue. Can't comment on the performance difference as the 164 was never right. I will keep my eyes open for a 137.

Yes probably the same thing but the Husky didnt take the thrashing over it around here that a Poulan did! :ices_rofl:

And at least Poulan would warranty it. :rock:

I'm betting that the performance difference will be quite noticeable as the 49 was used from 46cc all the way to 60cc and the fact that my 54cc PP330 will run right with my 60cc PP365.

And ABEC 3 right?

Yep!
 
Last edited:
Since you giys are on a black handle 4000 kick, here's mine....

Picture678.jpg


Picture677.jpg

With the 24" bar
Picture590.jpg
 
Last edited:
361 recoil spring shield.

Made one out of a coffee can lid. 3 7/8" o.d. x 1 3/8" i.d.. Plastic was a tad thicker and some softer than the original but the spring is staying put on its' anchor knob.

Cleaned and set the points while I was in there. Broke a flywheel fin. Me and my four ounce hammer. Got to get some new glasses.

Beginning to think it would look good in John Deere yellow.
 
Last edited:
245 Piston Swap

I admit I am more of a lurker than a poster on this forum. I have been soaking up a lot of know how from all of you guys for a while. So thanks for that.

I swear I came across a post at one time where a guy took a 245 cylinder and bored it out a bit to take a Stihl piston, but color me stupid because I can't find that post for the life of me. I even think I remember who posted it.... Redunshee or Moparman. Then again, I could have dreamt it... CAD is making me crazy.

Does anyone recall anything like this? :help:

Also, what's the best way to remove the wrist pin from a 245? Do I need one of those fancy pullers, or will a couple good smacks knock it loose. Of course the connecting rod would be well braced to not feel any lateral pressure from the smacks.

:cheers:

For my own reference I am including the bore/stroke.

CYLINDER BORE: 2.005 in. (50.92mm)
PISTON STROKE: 1.437 in. (36.5mm)
 
I admit I am more of a lurker than a poster on this forum. I have been soaking up a lot of know how from all of you guys for a while. So thanks for that.

I swear I came across a post at one time where a guy took a 245 cylinder and bored it out a bit to take a Stihl piston, but color me stupid because I can't find that post for the life of me. I even think I remember who posted it.... Redunshee or Moparman. Then again, I could have dreamt it... CAD is making me crazy.

Does anyone recall anything like this? :help:

Also, what's the best way to remove the wrist pin from a 245? Do I need one of those fancy pullers, or will a couple good smacks knock it loose. Of course the connecting rod would be well braced to not feel any lateral pressure from the smacks.

:cheers:

For my own reference I am including the bore/stroke.

CYLINDER BORE: 2.005 in. (50.92mm)
PISTON STROKE: 1.437 in. (36.5mm)






It wasn't this moparman!
Maybe one of the others.

A little heat applied to the top of that 245 piston with a propane torch will do wonders for that removal.

Mike
 
Thanks

I admit I am more of a lurker than a poster on this forum. I have been soaking up a lot of know how from all of you guys for a while. So thanks for that.






I too have been lurking around reading old posts and soaking up as much as I can. I have been on here so much that my girlfriend is jealous of you guys. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who contributed to the site. I also wanted to give everyone who's been helping me an update on my poulan 655. My carb gaskets were back ordered :bang: and my needle valve is definitely not set right cuz I have a puddle of fuel under the saw.
I had found some poulans I had laying around for oh 12-15 years I had got off of a junk pile I was saving for parts. Kinda forgot I had them. I think you guys inspired me to rebuild them. Im gonna see if I can get some pics of them posted. There are a few things I need to know. What does CAD stand for? Why are the older green saws so desirable?
Thanks
Chris
 
Last edited:
There are a few things I need to know. What does CAD stand for? Why are the older green saws so desirable?
Thanks
Chris



CAD= Chainsaw Acquisition Disease (or disorder depending on whom you talk to)

The older Poulans are so desirable because there was a time.....not so very long ago.....When an AMERICAN chainsaw company set the bar for all others to strive for.
That company was Poulan and those are the saws.


Mike
 
The older Poulans are so desirable because there was a time.....not so very long ago.....When an AMERICAN chainsaw company set the bar for all others to strive for.
That company was Poulan and those are the saws.


Mike
How true this is. In this day and age we have to look to Germany and Sweden to get anything of quality or do like you guys do, keep the fires burning by rebuilding and restoring these American saws. I remember when my dad brought Big Mac home and said this is the best chainsaw ever made, he was so proud of that saw! He wasn't too happy about the pain it inflicted upon his hands, lol.
 
Yes, I have seen and worked on the model 91 saws. They are the direct drive version of the 92. The 91 and super 72 and 71 all share the same piston. The 91 has a longer stroke, but really does not make that much more power for the extra weight of the saw. They have a distinctive pop to them like the 80 and 90 series saws because of the curved muffler and top end design. Nice old boat anchors.
 
Rebuild Questions

I'm putting the finishing touches on that overdue Poulan "Pro" 4218 rebuild and have to get the basic settings of the H and L needles, .... before I realized that poor compression was my problem I started messing with these settings and assume they are fubar; in the absence of knowledge I set them at 1 1/2 turns (360* plus 90*); also I ran into an unexpected snag with the chain brake: there's a strong spring that needs to be compressed and held that way as the sub-assembly goes on the side. Similar assemblies have had conveniently placed holes where a drill bit would hold a spring until placed, then the bit is pulled out, releasing the spring. No such luck here. If necessary I can drill some for myself, but there may be a smarter way. If anyone knows what I'm rabbiting on about I'd appreciate getting a pointer or four, ... thanks , ... :jester:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top