Nik's Poulan Thread

[thomas72]

While you are at it go ahead and put a new vent check valve in the tank.

 

[handyrandyrc]

Will do that as well -- I can see it (the check valve) now that I cleaned the saw up! There was a quarter inch of dirt and grease over it before!

Couldn't even see which direction was 'ON' or 'OFF' on the ignition switch -- grease cake city.

Now for the bad news -- did a poor man's compression test. Talked to a 2-stroke guru here at work about it. He just holds his thumb over the plug hole and turns the crank over. If air is able to force its way out, he knows he has enough compression. If he can keep his thumb over the hole, he knows the cylinder is shot.

I can rotate the flywheel by hand and keep my thumb over the spark plug hole. I can feel pressure build, but not near enough make any air leak around my thumb. Looks like I may need rings? This is getting to be a fun winter project now!

 

[67 Mustang]

The 1/4 line is a little small for my tank hole. Hole is angled so I 'm not sure if someone tried to elongate it with a drill. Also trying to find some paint as I sanded parts. Auto body shop wants $150.00 to match for a qt. of paint, reducer and hardner. Ouch. Eastwoods has a sublime green for a 70 dodge(FJ4) that's close but its still 85.00/w/o hardner.

No. 1/4" ID is about 3/8" OD, so that just isn't going through a 1/4" hole.

Ouch on the paint price. TRI955 posted in a thread not long ago about using the Light Lime Green of the the early 70's Chryslers. (http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=113535&highlight=poulan+4900 Post #2) I was wondering about just finding some of that in a rattle can in Acrylic. Wonder if that would work. Maybe bake it in the oven on low for couple of hours. Have you tried that? I've tried enamel and can attest that doesn't work.

 

[redunshee]

No. 1/4" ID is about 3/8" OD, so that just isn't going through a 1/4" hole.

Ouch on the paint price. TRI955 posted in a thread not long ago about using the Light Lime Green of the the early 70's Chryslers. (http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=113535&highlight=poulan+4900 Post #2) I was wondering about just finding some of that in a rattle can in Acrylic. Wonder if that would work. Maybe bake it in the oven on low for couple of hours. Have you tried that? I've tried enamel and can attest that doesn't work.

I've got 1/4 in. od and its a tad small. Probably need 5/8 od but haven't found any as yet. Yes, I bake mine in oven(rattle can). Agree that enamel doesn't hold up well. Really think a two part would work but hard to find right color, at least at a reasonable price.

 

[thomas72]

That is a decent way to check the compression, but there are several errors in your assumptons. The engine has sat for years, thus the rings may not be able to seal correctly until you run the saw. Also, you need to put the recoil back on the saw and then check. If the cylinder has no scoring then get it running and then check the compression.

 

[handyrandyrc]

I have refinished quite a few firearms with a product called Duracoat. It's a super paint/finish that I apply with an airbrush. It's a 2-part product, color and hardener are mixed and then sprayed on. Best finish I've had on a firearm.

They have a "Lime Green" color which may just be what the Dr. ordered for the Poulan saws. What do you fellas say?

There's also an "Electric Lime Green" which has more POW to it.

http://www.jimsgunsupply.com/DuraCoat/color.html

You can get Duracoat from dozens of vendors online. This is just one that all the colors listed together easy to see.

 

[redunshee]

I have refinished quite a few firearms with a product called Duracoat. It's a super paint/finish that I apply with an airbrush. It's a 2-part product, color and hardener are mixed and then sprayed on. Best finish I've had on a firearm.

They have a "Lime Green" color which may just be what the Dr. ordered for the Poulan saws. What do you fellas say?

There's also an "Electric Lime Green" which has more POW to it.

http://www.jimsgunsupply.com/DuraCoat/color.html

You can get Duracoat from dozens of vendors online. This is just one that all the colors listed together easy to see.

Color doesn't look that bad! Is it enamel or acrylic? How does it hold up. Chipping is an issue with saws.

 

[handyrandyrc]

This stuff wears like iron. I have put it on pistol slides, and it has good self-lubricating propertiies -- kind of 'slicks' up the surface.

It's also flexible, so doesn't chip. If you ever over shoot with this stuff, it's not coming off. Sandblasting takes a LONG time to get it off, but it is so far the best way to remove Duracoat.

I believe it's enamel-based, but am not sure of the make-up. They also have a product called 'DuraBake' that is oven-cured. Some guys do their whole pistols and rifles in the stuff and bake it on. It's made hot bluing obsolete in my mind.

 

[briantutt]

Is it a ceramic coating like Cerakote?

http://www.nicindustries.com/cerakote.php

I have to guns coated with this stuff and it is tough.

 

[voxac30dude]

whats the biggest poulan they sell on the market today?

 

[redunshee]

whats the biggest poulan they sell on the market today?

Not exactly sure but doubt its over 50cc. Likely less, say 46cc.

 

[rms61moparman]

Well for right NOW it is gonna be the 56cc 330 that is being sold at TSC stores.
When they are gone it will be the 4620 as Bob said. 46cc and a 20" B/C.

Mike

 

[redunshee]

Forgot about the PP330. Thanks.

 

[redunshee]

This stuff wears like iron. I have put it on pistol slides, and it has good self-lubricating propertiies -- kind of 'slicks' up the surface.

It's also flexible, so doesn't chip. If you ever over shoot with this stuff, it's not coming off. Sandblasting takes a LONG time to get it off, but it is so far the best way to remove Duracoat.

I believe it's enamel-based, but am not sure of the make-up. They also have a product called 'DuraBake' that is oven-cured. Some guys do their whole pistols and rifles in the stuff and bake it on. It's made hot bluing obsolete in my mind.

Well I bit the bullet and ordered lime green and gloss black Duracoat. See how it works. Will an airbrush get the job done or should I use a HVLP gun on a chainsaw?

 

[outdoorlivin247]

I think one of you guys need this...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-1950s-P...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item518f035dfd

 

[stihl sawing]

I think one of you guys need this...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-1950s-P...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item518f035dfd

Man i would take it in a heartbeat.

 

[cjcocn]

Man i would take it in a heartbeat.

Me too .... well, except for the "having the money" part.

I prefer a certain brand of saw in general, but any of those oldies are welcome in my house.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Man i would take it in a heartbeat.

Me too, but not at that price.

 

[handyrandyrc]

Well I bit the bullet and ordered lime green and gloss black Duracoat. See how it works. Will an airbrush get the job done or should I use a HVLP gun on a chainsaw?

Heck, I just used a Harbor Freight spray gun for application...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47016

Hooked up to the compressor and gave it a go! Worked wonderfully! Some say I needed a pressure regulator, moisture trap, etc. but I just threaded a standard quick release nipple in the air gun and hooked up my plain old hose to it.

Don't BREATHE the Duracoat when you spray it. It's the most nasty stuff I've inhaled ever. Did bad things to me when I wasn't using a respirator. At least get out in the open air (did I just say that in the wintertime?)

 

[stihl sawing]

Me too, but not at that price.

How much are they wanting for it, Can't go to ebay at work.