Nik's Poulan Thread

[joe25DA]

Like Greg, I dont have the "4200 and ^ Poulans" yet, but Mark and Mike will be a better source than me for info. They are well built saws. And you will enjoy it. Go to http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf for info on your saws.

 

[FATGUY]

Like Greg, I dont have the "4200 and ^ Poulans" yet, but Mark and Mike will be a better source than me for info. They are well built saws. And you will enjoy it. Go to http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf for info on your saws.

Mikes run really well. I remember this summer we had a tach on em and they barely dropped rpm when you buried 'em in the wood. Awesome saws, would love to have one or two or three or.....

 

[redunshee]

I've used the search a bunch on the forum, and have Google'd quite a bit. However, I'm not finding many specs for the 4200 on the web. The only clue I had to size is perhaps the 69 CCM on the label? Does that mean it has 69cc displacement, or is the CCM something besides my guess of 'Cubic CentiMeters'? I have only recently begun 'chainsawing' the last two years. I moved up to Idaho, and most of my kinfolk use firewood for heating.

I'd gone 'to the timber' as a kid when we lived up here, but it's been 25 years since then. Last two seasons, we spent multiple days in the woods gathering dead lodgepole for firewood. Grandpa gets a permit every year, and we fill the 5 ton truck. I picked up a 'cheap' chainsaw to get myself 'helping' and I have sort of fallen in love with it. I don't know what it is about it. I could spend hours splitting wood, theraputic labor I guess.

Just wanted to see if I can resurrect this saw and show up with it next year for a 'surprise'. Everyone knows this saw, and knows it's been sitting 'dead' for years. Grandpa gave it up for a new, much lighter, Husky 350. Would be fun to go do the timber next year and whip out the old Poulan.

The 4200 and 5200 are sister saws. 4200 is 69cc and 5200 85 cc. Check you ignition wiring for breaks as its easy for the sparkplug wire to rub against the flywheel. Clean it up and see if it runs though you'll likely need to rebuild carb, etc. Pull muffler ands see what piston looks like. However you won't be able to check intake side if piston w/o pulling cylinder.

 

[redunshee]

Top cover is only held on by one nut at top of cover. Cover fits on threaded rod on top of cylinder. Part # is 530015286 but is no longer available. However threaded rod is a 1/4-20 by 1 " socket head bolt. You can simply look for a 1/4/20 nut. Should be good to go. I'm rebuilding a 5200 so I've been through all this.
bob

 

[67 Mustang]

Air Filter

Careful with the air filter when you clean it. They're no longer available. Don't try to use compressed air, just brush it lightly with an old paint brush to get what dirt you can out of it. Good luck with it. Welcome and make sure to keep us up to date with your progress. BTW - The top cover screws are 10-24 if I recall correctly somewhere around 1" - 1 1/2"

Steve

 

[little possum]

I would start by cleaning the saw first, not tryin to check for spark. Just my opinion. I wouldnt want to be pullin on the rope and have the chance that there could be foreign debris in the cylinder.

But I bet she cleans up nice. A little cleaner, and some elbow grease time, and ta-da.

Good Luck, and keep us posted

 

[thomas72]

The 4200 is a very good saw. You will probably have to replace the fuel lines and rebuild the carb. One of the most common things to break on them is the old rubber anti-vibe mounts so try not to spill gas on them. Other than those the rest of the saw will last a long time. They have good electronic ignition systems on them along with very dependable oil pumps. That is one saw you do not have to do a muffler mod on.

 

[rms61moparman]

The piston moves up and down (with some resistance, which I believe is a good thing), and the pull start still works.

I unscrewed the plug and left it attached to the plug wire. Should I get visible spark when pulling the start cord? I am not seeing any spark. I noticed grandpa had put tape between the cover and the ignition module thingy. Looked like it might have had a tendency to short to the cover where the spade lug attaches?

Anyhow, I have a lot of clean up to do before I can really even get started much. Ideas for me?

Hello Randy,

Welcome to the site and congratulations on having a Poulan "thumper".

The saw is indeed 69cc and when they are right, they are HOSSES!!!

I have to agree with Lil' Possum, you need to start with a real good cleaning.
You might as well start keeping your eyes open for a decent parts saw too.

Soak your air filter in a good solvent, (I like mineral spirits) and see what you have under the gunk.
The ignitions in these saws are usually pretty good and yes you should be able to see a spark if you ground the electrode with the plug installed in the wire and pull the rope. The ignition tester is a good idea but you can always just "man up" and pull the rope while holding a scwrench in the boot.

My advice would be to pull the cylinder and clean and inspect everything.
Just a little bit of rust or carbon or dirt inside the cylinder could be bad news later.
Check the bottom of that saw closely for pitting.
If it was stored on the ground they can corrode completely through the case.
It causes pin holes and will render the saw useless.

Feel free to PM me if you have any specific questions.

Mike

 

[briantutt]

I soaked the air filter for my Jonny 70E in dish soap water over night per suggestion on AS. Then rinsed it with the kitchen sprayer. Worked pretty well.

 

[MrGiggles]

Does anyone in here have any idea where I could find a clutch-side crankshaft seal for my Poulan 361? My IPL has it listed as part #1914.

Thanks

 

[Modifiedmark]

Does anyone in here have any idea where I could find a clutch-side crankshaft seal for my Poulan 361? My IPL has it listed as part #1914.

Thanks

Maybe check with Calvin, if he don't have one he can tell you of a guy that should have them.

Otherwise you can probably match it up at Motion Industries or the like.

 

[handyrandyrc]

I was able to clean and salvage the air filter. Looks like the dirt/gunk is out, and most of the 'flock' is still there. Wire screen is still in good order. I used a dish sprayer in the sink and some soap.

The ignition tester is a good idea but you can always just "man up" and pull the rope while holding a scwrench in the boot.

Thanks for the tip! I did as you said, gritted my teeth, and yanked. She's DEFINITELY GOT SPARK. lol My fingers didn't work correctly for a couple minutes after that.

My advice would be to pull the cylinder and clean and inspect everything.
Just a little bit of rust or carbon or dirt inside the cylinder could be bad news later.

Peering through the muffler, I can see inside the cylinder -- everything looks shiny, no big scars that I can see on the inside from this perspective. I'll need to take the head off to be sure, but I was encouraged by the looks of things. The carb is also very clean/shiny inside, surprisingly.

Check the bottom of that saw closely for pitting.

There were two tiny spots I can see where it wanted to corrode on the bottom, but it's barely surface from what I can see. However, I see what you say about 'pin-holes' -- it appears that is the way this stuff goes. Is it a good idea to re-paint/seal the exterior of these saws? There are a lot of places on this one where the paint is gone and it's bare magnesium, however, most spots are smooth and free of corrosion.

If I can rebuild the carb, replace fuel lines, filter, etc. and have it run, that would be special. Once I've rebuilt, is 1.5 turns out from light seating a good place to start on needles?

 

[joe25DA]

I was able to clean and salvage the air filter. Looks like the dirt/gunk is out, and most of the 'flock' is still there. Wire screen is still in good order. I used a dish sprayer in the sink and some soap.



Thanks for the tip! I did as you said, gritted my teeth, and yanked. She's DEFINITELY GOT SPARK. lol My fingers didn't work correctly for a couple minutes after that.



Peering through the muffler, I can see inside the cylinder -- everything looks shiny, no big scars that I can see on the inside from this perspective. I'll need to take the head off to be sure, but I was encouraged by the looks of things. The carb is also very clean/shiny inside, surprisingly.


There were two tiny spots I can see where it wanted to corrode on the bottom, but it's barely surface from what I can see. However, I see what you say about 'pin-holes' -- it appears that is the way this stuff goes. Is it a good idea to re-paint/seal the exterior of these saws? There are a lot of places on this one where the paint is gone and it's bare magnesium, however, most spots are smooth and free of corrosion.

If I can rebuild the carb, replace fuel lines, filter, etc. and have it run, that would be special. Once I've rebuilt, is 1.5 turns out from light seating a good place to start on needles?

Sounds good. Personally, I wouldn't pull that cylinder if it looks good thru the ex. Port and your comp is good, I'd leave it. I have filled some light corrosion holes with jb weld, mine were in the handle tho. With the carb, once you rebuild it, 1-1.5 turns out. Get some new fuel line and a filer, you'll be all set

 

[handyrandyrc]

I'd just measure it myself if I were at home, but I'm at work and would like to place an order for some parts.

What diameter ID / OD fuel line does this Poulan 4200 want to have? (If someone knows off the top of their head.) I can pick a filter as well, based on that.

I'll check it out after I get home and measure if nobody recalls.

 

[handyrandyrc]

Just an FYI and to add for the search function.

Poulan 4200 uses 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD fuel line. Hole drilled in the top of the fuel tank is .250" diameter -- exactly 1/4".

 

[Modifiedmark]

Just an FYI and to add for the search function.

Poulan 4200 uses 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD fuel line. Hole drilled in the top of the fuel tank is .250" diameter -- exactly 1/4".

Yes I do believe your right. I just did one a while back and didn't really care for the line that large, seems a little stiff in the tank but like you said a 1/4" line wasn't tight enough in the tank hole.

 

[redunshee]

Yes I do believe your right. I just did one a while back and didn't really care for the line that large, seems a little stiff in the tank but like you said a 1/4" line wasn't tight enough in the tank hole.

Same thing with my 5200. Plus try and get the 1/4 in. line on the carb and filter. You'll be talking to yourself.
Bob

 

[67 Mustang]

Yes I do believe your right. I just did one a while back and didn't really care for the line that large, seems a little stiff in the tank but like you said a 1/4" line wasn't tight enough in the tank hole.

If you thinks that's stiff, I had to use 1/4" ID x 3/16" OD on that 7700. Tank hole was bigger diameter. Looked like a fire hose. Tough bending the radius to the carb too w/o it crimping. I assumed it would be the same on the 5200. Not so, so I have a rigged affair on it right now until I can get the proper sized line on it. Just haven't been back to Tony's to see if they have it yet.

 

[67 Mustang]

Same thing with my 5200. Plus try and get the 1/4 in. line on the carb and filter. You'll be talking to yourself.
Bob

:agree2:, Bob! We were posting that last one at the same time. Try getting 1/4 ID through the hole in the 4200/5200. Easier to thread a camel through a needle!

 

[redunshee]

:agree2:, Bob! We were posting that last one at the same time. Try getting 1/4 ID through the hole in the 4200/5200. Easier to thread a camel through a needle!

The 1/4 line is a little small for my tank hole. Hole is angled so I 'm not sure if someone tried to elongate it with a drill. Also trying to find some paint as I sanded parts. Auto body shop wants $150.00 to match for a qt. of paint, reducer and hardner. Ouch. Eastwoods has a sublime green for a 70 dodge(FJ4) that's close but its still 85.00/w/o hardner.