Nik's Poulan Thread

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Gregg, like Canada, Australia legislated chain brakes a long time ago. Supposed to make the saw safer but I am durned if I know. One thing it does is make the saw a good sight uglier!

Joe, I have a little Poulan Partner with the kind of brake you refer to. Looks like this.

P7130858.jpg


Al.
 
Do you have a continuity meter? If you do just check it at the end of the wire to ground with the wire pulled off the module. It should have continuity to ground with the switch turned off and not have it with the switch turned on. Did you ground the spark plug to the engine when you pulled the rope? Yes, you have to have a gap between the flywheel and the module, usually around .010.

I don't have a continuity meter but i checked the gap this morning and made the correction, but I did not have the plug grounded on the engine during my previous test. Thank you for the tip, I rechecked and the plug is firing, so the wiring looks ok, I replaced the fuel lines, found plenty of rotted lines in the tank along with the fuel filter but no duckbill valve. I am going to try and start it up in a bit. Will the engine pull the fuel through the line? Will I have to spray starter fluid in the carb to get it started?
 
Gregg, like Canada, Australia legislated chain brakes a long time ago. Supposed to make the saw safer but I am durned if I know. One thing it does is make the saw a good sight uglier!

Joe, I have a little Poulan Partner with the kind of brake you refer to. Looks like this.

P7130858.jpg


Al.

I recently picked up a chainbrake for my S25CVA. Why? Beats me! Not really necessary but I thought it would look differant.
Bob
 
Do you have a continuity meter? If you do just check it at the end of the wire to ground with the wire pulled off the module. It should have continuity to ground with the switch turned off and not have it with the switch turned on. Did you ground the spark plug to the engine when you pulled the rope? Yes, you have to have a gap between the flywheel and the module, usually around .010.

If you plan to pull the fuel tank, you'll have to remove the flywheel. If you don't have a continuity tester simply remove the lead wire off your switch. You should get spark. You can use a business card to set airgap on your coil/flywheel.
 
I don't have a continuity meter but i checked the gap this morning and made the correction, but I did not have the plug grounded on the engine during my previous test. Thank you for the tip, I rechecked and the plug is firing, so the wiring looks ok, I replaced the fuel lines, found plenty of rotted lines in the tank along with the fuel filter but no duckbill valve. I am going to try and start it up in a bit. Will the engine pull the fuel through the line? Will I have to spray starter fluid in the carb to get it started?

Do not under any circumstance use starter fluid. Yes, the carb will pull fuel from the tank. Pull choke out and pull recoil until you hear engine sputter, this could take up to 10 pulls if the carb is dry. Once it sputters push in choke and pull 1-3 times and it should run. Naturally you've set the half throttle before doing all this and set the switch to run.
Bob
 
I drove for six hours today to pick up another 4900 parts saw (and a real old Partner) and it turns out to be 4200 - I have been wanting a 4200 for 30 years! I ran one in 1982 and loved it but just did not have the money for it then so I bought a 3400 which started a love of Poulan saws that I still have.

Must be clean living!

Looking forward to seeing pics of it cleaned up!
 
I don't have a continuity meter but i checked the gap this morning and made the correction, but I did not have the plug grounded on the engine during my previous test. Thank you for the tip, I rechecked and the plug is firing, so the wiring looks ok, I replaced the fuel lines, found plenty of rotted lines in the tank along with the fuel filter but no duckbill valve. I am going to try and start it up in a bit. Will the engine pull the fuel through the line? Will I have to spray starter fluid in the carb to get it started?

The duckbill valve on the gas tank is actually a vent, it allows air into the tank but won't let fuel out when the saw is tipped over. The one in the oil tank line allows it to pressurize the tank and push oil out to the bar. I would make the small investment and install 2 new ones if you plan to keep and use the saw. If the carb is working correctly you won't have to spray anything in it to get the engine running but you might have to give it a few extra pulls the first time you try to start it because of empty fuel line. Just choke it until you hear it hit then turn it to half choke and it will start. After it runs awhile turn the choke off.
Most of us don't like to use starter fluid in 2 stroke engines because it has no lubricant in it. I keep a Catsup squeeze bottle with fuel mix in it to prime my engines.
 
The duckbill valve on the gas tank is actually a vent, it allows air into the tank but won't let fuel out when the saw is tipped over. The one in the oil tank line allows it to pressurize the tank and push oil out to the bar. I would make the small investment and install 2 new ones if you plan to keep and use the saw. If the carb is working correctly you won't have to spray anything in it to get the engine running but you might have to give it a few extra pulls the first time you try to start it because of empty fuel line. Just choke it until you hear it hit then turn it to half choke and it will start. After it runs awhile turn the choke off.
Most of us don't like to use starter fluid in 2 stroke engines because it has no lubricant in it. I keep a Catsup squeeze bottle with fuel mix in it to prime my engines.

If we're taliking about a 3700, there is no duckbill valve on the oil line. You might be thinking about another model.
 
If we're taliking about a 3700, there is no duckbill valve on the oil line. You might be thinking about another model.

No I absolutely wasn't talking about a 3700 because I know little about them. I actually was talking about a Super 2 Homelite someone asked about. Looks like it should be in another thread besides this however.

I went back and looked and couldn't even find the thread...what I get for trying to talk about 2 different saws at the same time.
 
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I don't have a continuity meter but i checked the gap this morning and made the correction, but I did not have the plug grounded on the engine during my previous test. Thank you for the tip, I rechecked and the plug is firing, so the wiring looks ok, I replaced the fuel lines, found plenty of rotted lines in the tank along with the fuel filter but no duckbill valve. I am going to try and start it up in a bit. Will the engine pull the fuel through the line? Will I have to spray starter fluid in the carb to get it started?

Never ever use starting fluid on any 2 stroke!! It will take a few pulls to get the fuel to the carb.But it will LOL
 
micro oiler problems

hello ya all i have an old micro here that i got running numerous problems i fixed i noticed it was not oiling.... so i pulled the line put a new one in cleaned every thing twice but its still not oiling??????? i have done this a few times on other saws and it always works this time not so lucky.. i notice no poof of air when i take the oil cap off after it has been running like there should be right???? is there a oil check valve some place ??? they oil from pressure from the crank case right??? ive taken it back apart 3 times and cleaned everything and replaced the line twice im at a stand still is there something else i should do? should i pull the oiler from one that works???? it does not seem like its pressurein up??? for lack of a better term ...
 
hello ya all i have an old micro here that i got running numerous problems i fixed i noticed it was not oiling.... so i pulled the line put a new one in cleaned every thing twice but its still not oiling??????? i have done this a few times on other saws and it always works this time not so lucky.. i notice no poof of air when i take the oil cap off after it has been running like there should be right???? is there a oil check valve some place ??? they oil from pressure from the crank case right??? ive taken it back apart 3 times and cleaned everything and replaced the line twice im at a stand still is there something else i should do? should i pull the oiler from one that works???? it does not seem like its pressurein up??? for lack of a better term ...

The Main check valve is the hex nut located behind the clutch. There is another valve in the pump housing as well. Change them out one at a time and I'm sure you will find the trouble. Its all laid out in the Micro service manual.
 
cool

The Main check valve is the hex nut located behind the clutch. There is another valve in the pump housing as well. Change them out one at a time and I'm sure you will find the trouble. Its all laid out in the Micro service manual.

cool thanks i will break out the pdf and see where they are... im pretty sure i still have the pdf you sent me in a file on my pc thanks!
 
yep

I thought I had sent that but couldnt remember for sure.

yes i still had it saved thanks again.. i read it a few times and it only shows that one check valve behind the clutch and the oil pump do you just clean it clear it or replace it? also how do you cross check to see if its the oil pump???? that looks kinda cheap i sprayed carb cleaner and light compressed air through that it seems clear... i may pull one at a time like you said from one that woks and see which one it is....it did not say much about the check valve to check it and use loctite on it when you put it back in....so does it pull air through the check valve to create the pressure for the oil pump?? just my want to know how it works.... it did not say in the manual....thought you probably would know thanks again.
 
yes i still had it saved thanks again.. i read it a few times and it only shows that one check valve behind the clutch and the oil pump do you just clean it clear it or replace it? also how do you cross check to see if its the oil pump???? that looks kinda cheap i sprayed carb cleaner and light compressed air through that it seems clear... i may pull one at a time like you said from one that woks and see which one it is....it did not say much about the check valve to check it and use loctite on it when you put it back in....so does it pull air through the check valve to create the pressure for the oil pump?? just my want to know how it works.... it did not say in the manual....thought you probably would know thanks again.

It has been a while since I worked on one with that type value, but if I remember correct it has a ball in it that makes it work. It can get gummed and will not work. Take it out and use carb. cleaner until the ball is free and it should work. Tom
 
yes i still had it saved thanks again.. i read it a few times and it only shows that one check valve behind the clutch and the oil pump do you just clean it clear it or replace it? also how do you cross check to see if its the oil pump???? that looks kinda cheap i sprayed carb cleaner and light compressed air through that it seems clear... i may pull one at a time like you said from one that woks and see which one it is....it did not say much about the check valve to check it and use loctite on it when you put it back in....so does it pull air through the check valve to create the pressure for the oil pump?? just my want to know how it works.... it did not say in the manual....thought you probably would know thanks again.

Hey stub all I can say is I've gone through all the same, replaced parts with known working parts, and still not enough oil. I think the oil tank vent (the little pin looking thing by the bar oiler) wears the casting away enough that the oil tank doesn't get pressurized enough and bleeds too much pressure:bang:.

Yet some Micros I have keep oiling after the saw is shut off!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I need to unscrew the oil tank filler cap to release pressure.
 
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GTG next Weekend?

Are you guys still on up in Ohio next weekend? Just wanted to be sure so that I could zip down to Terry's GTG in TN this weekend if nothing is happening on the 8th.
 
Wow this is a really awsome deal, 42cc Reman. like new. $55 free shipping. They say 33cc but there really 42cc. Very tempting, just because I want somthing to play with.
 

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