Nik's Poulan Thread

[Eccentric]

That is very helpful. Now to find some parts!

jasper89

Here's a place to start:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

This is your exact model:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...47/1503220?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=358350851

The Sears part numbers in the list will work for you if you go through a Husky/Poulan parts outle outlet, ebay, or dealer too. Just add "5300" to the front of the part number to get the Poulan #. In some cases, the Sears site already specifies the 'full' Poulan # with "5300" in the beginning.

 

[zogger]

why, shoot...

I was cleaning out the attic in the garage for the remodel and I found the box from the 2900.

Haven't seen that picture of cuzzins Zeke, Zebulah and Zebediah for a long time.....

 

[Eccentric]

Didn't look closely at the fellers in the pic before now. They DO look like they should be holding a mason jar of "likkir" and playing a washboard. They're giving the cameraman a "you best put down that pichur box before we burry you in the swamp" look...

 

[Rudedog]

im loving mine!!!!!! 38 ccs and its light i used it the other day and it worked like a lil brute sharp chain and had to retune the carb while i was cutting had it a lil to lean opened up the carb .. took a few times it runs great hot or cold now
.. light weight powerhouse!!!! it cut as good as my 009 and did not viberate me LOL!

Well .... I got it. Needs to be cleaned up some. It has a new diaphragm and fuel line. Still a little hard to start and wants to cut out if you suddenly back off the trigger when going full in the cut.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I'm glad someone has some cross references. If you'd be so kind, I'd sure appreciate any cross reference to Poulan on these two:

Craftsman 3.3 CI (Model 358.356332) (I have no idea on this one)
Craftsman 3.7 CI (Model 358.356090) (USFS said Poulan 3600, but I'm sure you have better data)

Your 3.3 is a Poulan 3300 and your 3.7 is a Poulan 3800

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well .... I got it. Needs to be cleaned up some. It has a new diaphragm and fuel line. Still a little hard to start and wants to cut out if you suddenly back off the trigger when going full in the cut.

Looks good but who did the line and carb? Was it done right? Might just need some fine tuning.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Here's a place to start:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

This is your exact model:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...47/1503220?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=358350851

The Sears part numbers in the list will work for you if you go through a Husky/Poulan parts outle outlet, ebay, or dealer too. Just add "5300" to the front of the part number to get the Poulan #. In some cases, the Sears site already specifies the 'full' Poulan # with "5300" in the beginning.

That right there is the only way to be positive what Sears/Poulan saw you have. Look up the IPL at the Sears site and cross reference the part numbers to the Poulan IPL.

Like I have said before and I'll say it again, with the relabled saws, there are some versions made that have no direct Poulan to cross reference to.

An example is the Craftsman 3.0 that is BASED on the Poulan 3000. The Craftsman saw has a plain bore while the Poulan has a chrome bore.

 

[homelitejim]

I tell you what Mark, I will put one of these 8500's together for myself, then will pm you for first dibbs on the other ones. I am more than likely going to keep the 5200 as well.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I tell you what Mark, I will put one of these 8500's together for myself, then will pm you for first dibbs on the other ones. I am more than likely going to keep the 5200 as well.

Sounds good to me. Let me know if you need any help, you will like the 8500!

Yes you might as well keep the 5200 as well, just because its been welded dont make it bad as long as its solid. Might make yourself a good work saw out of it. I have the brg and seal #s for them if you need it. I would strongly suggest doing the crank seals on those if they have been sitting around that long. Cheap insurance.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Looks good but who did the line and carb? Was it done right? Might just need some fine tuning.

I may be a little fussy and I know others here are also, but when I do almost anything to a chainsaw I clean the whole saw up. I've seen small engine shops just clean and fix the exact spot they're working on and nothing else, and a few that don't even clean up the spot they're working on. As an old boss of mine used to say " It just takes a little more effort to do it right."

 

[Wileyone27]

Help

Hello I have a poulan chainsaw that I can't identify from checking around on the Internet I am guessing it to be either a3300,3400,or 3500. The only numbers I see on the back handle are Type iii below that is a seriel number 530-037686 and next to that on a WCI sticker is 97-038d00236. Here are some pictures I hope someone can help.
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc399/wileyone27/616fded3.jpg
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc399/wileyone27/4508f4d7.jpg
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc399/wileyone27/33d91f00.jpg
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc399/wileyone27/88705d9e.jpg
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc399/wileyone27/e75590e8.jpg

 

[nick 55]

A. Palmer, you bring up a good point. How do you guys clean up a saw? I usually blow mine off after a day of use, and anytime I have to remove a cover, I clean out the inside. By doing that, they don't get real bad. With my some of the used saws I have acquired, they are covered in oily saw dust I really don't want plugging up my parts washer. My wife would pitch a fit if I sprayed them off and the oily mix was running down the driveway, and I'm not about to get that in my yard either. I guess I could just buy more solvent and clean the parts washer more often, but that gets expensive.

Nick

 

[a. palmer jr.]

A. Palmer, you bring up a good point. How do you guys clean up a saw? I usually blow mine off after a day of use, and anytime I have to remove a cover, I clean out the inside. By doing that, they don't get real bad. With my some of the used saws I have acquired, they are covered in oily saw dust I really don't want plugging up my parts washer. My wife would pitch a fit if I sprayed them off and the oily mix was running down the driveway, and I'm not about to get that in my yard either. I guess I could just buy more solvent and clean the parts washer more often, but that gets expensive.

Nick

I believe I live in a more rural area than you do. Most of my saws get cleaned when I first get them then all that's required is a little blowing off or wiping down of sawdust and oil. Most of mine are so filthy when I get them that I have to give them a good spraying of Purple Power or Simple Green, brush them while spraying, then give them a good rinse of water. Hot water works best to rinse metal parts off because it dries faster and leaves less corrosion or rust. I also have a Milwaukee heavy duty hot air blower, like a heavy duty hair dryer to blow them off with. I don't clean much in winter however.

I think the changeover to stick bar oil is responsible for a lot of the crud that builds up on saws. I'm kinda going away from that on most of my old saws and back to just plain old motor oil.

 

[nick 55]

You definitely live in a more rural area, but that isn't a bad thing. I have corn fields to the west, and 2 miles ease is the start of the Chicago metropolis. I haven't even really unboxed a few saws i got because they are a mess. I guess there's always the dishwasher.

Nick

 

[rms61moparman]

Hey Nick,

You can always do what I do when I'm working on one in the house.
Pick up a cheap canister vacuum at an auction, yardsale or eeeeeeeeeeeeee-Bay.
Suck the loose stuff off first then take an old paint brush or similar and knock the stuck on crud off while sucking it up as you go.
When you finish, the whole mess can go right in the trash, or in the stove.


Mike

 

[Nardoo]

I live rural so have no issue with all the oily stuff that comes off saws. I use compressed air (outside) then a petrol bath and more compressed air. It works fine but you need a bath really bad at the end of the day!
My son gave me a 20 gallon parts washer for Christmas and I am looking forward to setting it up. Working on clean saw is so much nicer.
When I got this 375 it was covered in a thick layer of oily wood dust and looked old and worn. A quick clean up and it was a pleasure to work on.

Al.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

You definitely live in a more rural area, but that isn't a bad thing. I have corn fields to the west, and 2 miles ease is the start of the Chicago metropolis. I haven't even really unboxed a few saws i got because they are a mess. I guess there's always the dishwasher.

Nick

Last summer I just put my old dirty saws on a stump to suds them down, then to the hydrant to rinse them. I prefer a hot water rinse but sometimes it hot weather I rinse them with cold water and let the wind dry them. I usually towel them off a little also.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

feeling a pull

I've always pretty much been a Stihl-head, and I guess I still am. However, I have been reading some posts over here and looking at some Poulan saws (that I had no idea were ever made - big saws). If I was to look for a Poulan saw that would be in line with a MS310 or larger what saw would I be looking for? Just wondering...

 

[redunshee]

I've always pretty much been a Stihl-head, and I guess I still am. However, I have been reading some posts over here and looking at some Poulan saws (that I had no idea were ever made - big saws). If I was to look for a Poulan saw that would be in line with a MS310 or larger what saw would I be looking for? Just wondering...

Is the 310 60cc or so? If it is, I'd look for a 3700(61cc) or 4000(64cc). Additionally a 3450 Type 3 and 3750 are 60cc class saws.
Believe the Poulan Pro 375 is also in this class. These are a few and I'm sure others will add their favorites.
Bob

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

I've always pretty much been a Stihl-head, and I guess I still am. However, I have been reading some posts over here and looking at some Poulan saws (that I had no idea were ever made - big saws). If I was to look for a Poulan saw that would be in line with a MS310 or larger what saw would I be looking for? Just wondering...

Poulan 3700,3750,3800,4000,4200,5200,6000,8500

Poulan Pro 365,375,380,385

The ones above are more or less real poulans and there may be a few I missed.

These below are poulan pro's, but most are either pioneer or jonsered saws in yellow. However thay are still good saws.

Poulan Pro 405,415,425,445,455,475,505,525,655