Nik's Poulan Thread

[a. palmer jr.]

I like my little Craftsman1.9/Poulan XXD. Strong running, well built little saw. Has a Tillotson HU14 carb too. Not crazy about either of the oiler setups on that saw however.



I do too. Glad you guys jumped in. With the lack of sleep I've had over the last few days, I wouldn't have been able to type an even halfway civil response to that ******. I also agree with what Joe said...........we should let ####birds trash talk the Poulans to keep the resale prices down...

I like buying chainsaws for less than what the bar and chain are worth....

 

[nick 55]

I never find any nice ones at auctions, garage sales, or on craigslist.

Nick

 

[barneyrb]

All this talk about them makes me want another one. A real cream puff, and the nice running one I have now(the beat up looking one) will get Snellerized.

My friend has an MS200T. I should run them side by side this spring and see how they do. That would really chap some ***** if I posted that video.

Nick

I have run mine against a MS200T, quite interesting the outcome. If I had muffler modded the 25da the stihl would've been spanked a lost worse than it was.......

 

[StinkyBunny]

havent gotten a XX yet Mike. Never see them come up around here.

How many dozen do you want? The damn things are like rabbits here in The People's Republic, lol. I bet there are 10 on search tempest right now within 100 miles of me.

 

[blackoak]

I will never say anything bad about a 200T except for the price they cost. I have two that I bought cheap from a tree trimmer that retired. They are excellent arborist saws and will take lots of abuse. They are a pleasure to run. They are not to bad to work on once you worked on a few. Comparing one to a XXV or S25DA is apples to oranges. Technology makes the 200T a better and safer saw.

With that said, it hit me wrong with the guys comment about the Poulans XXV in that post. These saws were and still are great top handle saws that will always have my respect. A good AV system and a chain brake would be nice on these saws. Pick up one with one hand and pull the trigger, do the same with a 200T and you will know what I'm talking about. If the Poulan company was still in LA making the S25DA saws with today's technology and the quality the Poulan company was known for, comparing one to a 200T today would definitely be apples to apples or oranges to oranges I'm sure.:msp_thumbsup:

 

[joe25DA]

How many dozen do you want? The damn things are like rabbits here in The People's Republic, lol. I bet there are 10 on search tempest right now within 100 miles of me.

haha thats funny. Find me a decsent one and Ill pay for it.
On an aside I think I stirred the pot more on that other thread. Couldn't help it 2 clown on there clearly don't know $h!+!

 

[joe25DA]

I like my little Craftsman1.9/Poulan XXD. Strong running, well built little saw. Has a Tillotson HU14 carb too. Not crazy about either of the oiler setups on that saw however.



I do too. Glad you guys jumped in. With the lack of sleep I've had over the last few days, I wouldn't have been able to type an even halfway civil response to that ******. I also agree with what Joe said...........we should let ####birds trash talk the Poulans to keep the resale prices down...

Its getting dumb and ugly there now Aaron. But those comments pi$$ me off about the macs and Poulans and homelites.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

It seems funny to me that some of us have run chainsaws like the Poulan DA for twenty years or so and now all of a sudden we have to have a saw with anti-vibe and a chain brake. I didn't need them then so obviously I don't need them now...

 

[DJayawk]

Hey Dennis, I don't know the fuel line size but the small tygon fuel line fits my zama and walbro carbs. You might want to take the muffler off and look at the piston,ring,and cylinder for scoring. Then open the muffler and inspect the spark arrester screen for carbon build-up. When you remove the limiters trim the ears off and put them back on and you'll be able to use a screwdriver for adjustment.

Ok tonight I took the muffler off and was able to get it apart but when it did pop open the parts from the inside flew out on the floor so I wasn't able to see how it goes back together. I have a Screen wrapped around a metal square like tube that has holes on one side and flat on the other (are these parts the Spark Arrestor, and Diffuser?) How does this go back together? One end of the metal square is marked TOP CYLINDER.

Also in my short time researching repair work on Chainsaws I've been hearing alot about Muffler Modding would this be a wise idea on this saw? If so does anyone have a good link to some step by step procedures?

I also took a flashlight and shined it inside the cylinder and I didn't notice anything that I would call scoring on the piston. It looks smooth and shiny still.

Thanks for any help.
-Dennis

 

[zogger]

Ok tonight I took the muffler off and was able to get it apart but when it did pop open the parts from the inside flew out on the floor so I wasn't able to see how it goes back together. I have a Screen wrapped around a metal square like tube that has holes on one side and flat on the other (are these parts the Spark Arrestor, and Diffuser?) How does this go back together? One end of the metal square is marked TOP CYLINDER.

Also in my short time researching repair work on Chainsaws I've been hearing alot about Muffler Modding would this be a wise idea on this saw? If so does anyone have a good link to some step by step procedures?

I also took a flashlight and shined it inside the cylinder and I didn't notice anything that I would call scoring on the piston. It looks smooth and shiny still.

Thanks for any help.
-Dennis

Ya, topcylinder is the end that goes back in towards the exhaust opening. Top is top. The do dad with holes you can drill those larger, and add more to the bottom. I tend to still use my screens as I used to be a volunteer rural firefighter of the outdoors nasty kind, so I think spark arrestors are worth a slight performance hit. If a saw has one when I get it, I leave it there. I'm not in a race saw competition nor will taking five minutes longer (whatever) to cut a load of wood hurt me any economically, so I leave them in. I know that is
"leaving something on the table" performance wise, but I don't care either. Just opening it up, but still leaving the screen, makes a noticeable diff in saws.

You can keep the screens clean by burning them with a propane torch. You can wire brush out the inside of the muffler, and the parts, or however you want to do it, soak in some nasty solvent, whatever, to decarbonize it. I just hit mine with a round wire brush in the cordless drill, knock off most of the nasty stuff.

Modding the muff case, look around the site for pics, lot of ways to do it. Some guys do amazing jobs with tubes and brazing, others just open up the existing slots or holes, etc. Salt to taste. Rule of thumb is no more then around 80% or 3/4s say of your exhaust opening in the cylinder. Two strokes need a bit of "back pressure" to function correctly. The race saw guys have tuned pipes that do it perfectly, but those are way clunky for general use. (now someone will chime in how they use their piped alkynitro burning hotsaw every day for the last 50-75 years to make more money out in the woods) HAHAHAHA

Always find the IPL for your particular saw before you start working on it, it will show all the parts and how it all fits together.

 

[zogger]

Comparisons

I will never say anything bad about a 200T except for the price they cost. I have two that I bought cheap from a tree trimmer that retired. They are excellent arborist saws and will take lots of abuse. They are a pleasure to run. They are not to bad to work on once you worked on a few. Comparing one to a XXV or S25DA is apples to oranges. Technology makes the 200T a better and safer saw.

With that said, it hit me wrong with the guys comment about the Poulans XXV in that post. These saws were and still are great top handle saws that will always have my respect. A good AV system and a chain brake would be nice on these saws. Pick up one with one hand and pull the trigger, do the same with a 200T and you will know what I'm talking about. If the Poulan company was still in LA making the S25DA saws with today's technology and the quality the Poulan company was known for, comparing one to a 200T today would definitely be apples to apples or oranges to oranges I'm sure.:msp_thumbsup:

--well, what is the *exact* comparable era stihl tophandle? That would be the proper one to compare the two.

 

[DJayawk]

Ya, topcylinder is the end that goes back in towards the exhaust opening. Top is top. The do dad with holes you can drill those larger, and add more to the bottom. I tend to still use my screens as I used to be a volunteer rural firefighter of the outdoors nasty kind, so I think spark arrestors are worth a slight performance hit. If a saw has one when I get it, I leave it there. I'm not in a race saw competition nor will taking five minutes longer (whatever) to cut a load of wood hurt me any economically, so I leave them in. I know that is
"leaving something on the table" performance wise, but I don't care either. Just opening it up, but still leaving the screen, makes a noticeable diff in saws.

You can keep the screens clean by burning them with a propane torch. You can wire brush out the inside of the muffler, and the parts, or however you want to do it, soak in some nasty solvent, whatever, to decarbonize it. I just hit mine with a round wire brush in the cordless drill, knock off most of the nasty stuff.

Modding the muff case, look around the site for pics, lot of ways to do it. Some guys do amazing jobs with tubes and brazing, others just open up the existing slots or holes, etc. Salt to taste. Rule of thumb is no more then around 80% or 3/4s say of your exhaust opening in the cylinder. Two strokes need a bit of "back pressure" to function correctly. The race saw guys have tuned pipes that do it perfectly, but those are way clunky for general use. (now someone will chime in how they use their piped alkynitro burning hotsaw every day for the last 50-75 years to make more money out in the woods) HAHAHAHA

Always find the IPL for your particular saw before you start working on it, it will show all the parts and how it all fits together.

Ok so does they just sit at the bottom of the muffler? The screen is not necessarily directly in from of the exhaust port correct? Thanks for the tips Zogger.

 

[8433jeff]

Ok so does they just sit at the bottom of the muffler? The screen is not necessarily directly in from of the exhaust port correct? Thanks for the tips Zogger.

You need an Illistrated Parts List, or IPL. The two bolts go down the side of the tube with the holes in it, and TOP CYLINDER means that it points up and it is next to the cylinder. The screen goes around the tube just like a sleeve.

 

[8433jeff]

Yesterday I worked on a Husqvarna 136. If the clowns at Huskavarnalon gave the breaks to the Wild Thing they did to the Husky side, such as air injection, some AV, an actual air filter, and a muffler with a side vent instead of the tiny back vents, complete with a tube that has factory holes on top and bottom, sized the way they should be, there would be few if any MS 170-180 sales for Stihl, and little orange saws would be an European novelty. Now they may cost all of twenty thirty dollars more, but WTH?
Or am I missing something?

 

[DJayawk]

You need an Illistrated Parts List, or IPL. The two bolts go down the side of the tube with the holes in it, and TOP CYLINDER means that it points up and it is next to the cylinder. The screen goes around the tube just like a sleeve.

Where would I be able to find an IPL?

 

[zogger]

Where would I be able to find an IPL?

I just tried woodshark 1950 and it is the top googly hit

Don't worry, it gets *loads* easier. I just started working on saws a year ago myself. I still have to ask the smart guys here what are to them boneheaded questions, like my stuck together gaskets.....at least I provide a little comic relief now and then...

..really..I need like quad focals and a magnifying lens....

...now, once you have torn down a dozen, it will all seem familiar. And you'll have a dozen before no time if you hang around here much.

 

[zogger]

Yesterday I worked on a Husqvarna 136. If the clowns at Huskavarnalon gave the breaks to the Wild Thing they did to the Husky side, such as air injection, some AV, an actual air filter, and a muffler with a side vent instead of the tiny back vents, complete with a tube that has factory holes on top and bottom, sized the way they should be, there would be few if any MS 170-180 sales for Stihl, and little orange saws would be an European novelty. Now they may cost all of twenty thirty dollars more, but WTH?
Or am I missing something?

Profits. There are different price points people will go for when buying stuff. These big companies know that. They could make everything the best possible they could..and cut out half their potential sales. Husky group ain't never gonna let poulan make a saw that undercuts their name brand saw on price. Although.... by reports, they are sneaking up on them fast with the 5020. Kinda bouncing off the envelope there, hoping no one will notice. 30 something CC saw or for less money a 50, different colored plastics...hmmmm.....



That's why poulan needs to be independent again, and run by saw guys, not just MBAs. I bet they *could* stage a tremendous comeback, price wise and quality wise. They need a 70 class, bad. They have a 50 for 200, bet two nickles they could make a decent 70 and come in under 300 bucks. I mean really, a teeny more material costs and about the same for casting and assembly etc. I think that is completely doable.

That would rock the saw whirrled. Can you imagine going into a shop and walking out with a decent two saw plan brand new for 500 clams?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I just tried woodshark 1950 and it is the top googly hit

Don't worry, it gets *loads* easier. I just started working on saws a year ago myself. I still have to ask the smart guys here what are to them boneheaded questions, like my stuck together gaskets.....at least I provide a little comic relief now and then...

..really..I need like quad focals and a magnifying lens....

...now, once you have torn down a dozen, it will all seem familiar. And you'll have a dozen before no time if you hang around here much.

Uhh....once in a while even the pros get stuck with one that just won't cooperate.. I've had several that everything seems to be set right, good compression, good spark, fuel seems ok but the saw still won't run. Happens every now and then, glad it's not a regular occurrence. Not saying that I'm a pro, far from it, just relaying my experiences.

I had a 306A Poulan for instance, very nice saw, great compression, great spark, I rebuilt the carb and put in new fuel lines, should have taken right off, but would just barely pop. Kept adjusting carb, even though I knew where to set it, tried choking it and starting without choking it, just wouldn't run. I started tearing it down and found out the previous owner had removed the reed valve! Not sure why he would do that but I had a parts saw and removed the reed from it and then the 306 ran great. I guess I should have checked the reed when I had the carb out but it never occurred to me to do that.

 

[zogger]

306a

Uhh....once in a while even the pros get stuck with one that just won't cooperate.. I've had several that everything seems to be set right, good compression, good spark, fuel seems ok but the saw still won't run. Happens every now and then, glad it's not a regular occurrence. Not saying that I'm a pro, far from it, just relaying my experiences.

I had a 306A Poulan for instance, very nice saw, great compression, great spark, I rebuilt the carb and put in new fuel lines, should have taken right off, but would just barely pop. Kept adjusting carb, even though I knew where to set it, tried choking it and starting without choking it, just wouldn't run. I started tearing it down and found out the previous owner had removed the reed valve! Not sure why he would do that but I had a parts saw and removed the reed from it and then the 306 ran great. I guess I should have checked the reed when I had the carb out but it never occurred to me to do that.

funny you should bring that up. The one that is torn apart on my bench, that cage assembly the reeds are in, one is slightly open all the time and has a scosh of rust on it. Should I steel wool that off, then flip it around so it closes good, or will a few thou being open affect it much? I don't think I want to start bending things.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

funny you should bring that up. The one that is torn apart on my bench, that cage assembly the reeds are in, one is slightly open all the time and has a scosh of rust on it. Should I steel wool that off, then flip it around so it closes good, or will a few thou being open affect it much? I don't think I want to start bending things.

you got it all that far down, clean it and flip it. why not? sure can't hurt and prolly will help. the reed is designed to be closed except when its SUPPOSED to be open. a little daylight may not be avoidable but less is better.