Nik's Poulan Thread

[scottr]

I know what your mean but I have never seen the problem with what your saying.

I have seen several on ebay with the problem and member Fish has mentioned it several times when the Intenz subject is brought up.

 

[scottr]

Kev, looking at the second picture I see they have what Poulan calls a insulator in that exhaust port. That just slips out of the port.

I don't know about porting that and how the best way to deal with the ledge at the inside of the port when that insulator is removed. I know that the port is much larger with it removed for sure.

Looks like the port on the muffler would have to be opened also.


You see what I mean on that muffler, it is a breeze. Drilling the front will do much more then opening those little slits in the back.

There was a former member that was told to remove the diffuser and screen and drill two 1/4" diameter holes buy member geofore and the former member claimed it worked well. I tried several smaller holes in the fronT without the diffuser and screen and I did not like it. The saw ran better for me with the diffuser and screen in and the louvers opened with round nose pliers and the area next to the louver filed to create a oval hole at each louver. Do your own experiment and see what happens but my guess is that the PP260 results will be similar to the PP220.

 

[scottr]

Ha, I had not noticed that insulator. Good eye! Something else to fiddle with. I see in my IPL that only the Type 1,2,3 shows that part.

I did notice that the spark plug boot is torn, but still looks intact. Looks like if the boot is messed up, I have to get another coil since the plug wire is one with the coil.

Kevin

You could just replace the boot or if you had some rubber weld rebond the intact boot.

 

[Modifiedmark]

There was a former member that was told to remove the diffuser and screen and drill two 1/4" diameter holes buy member geofore and the former member claimed it worked well. I tried several smaller holes in the fronT without the diffuser and screen and I did not like it. The saw ran better for me with the diffuser and screen in and the louvers opened with round nose pliers and the area next to the louver filed to create a oval hole on each louver. Do your own experiment and see what happens but my guess is that the PP260 results will be similar to the PP220.

I wouldnt be suggesting something without knowing for sure, I have done at least a dozen or so of them. The first one I did as you said, and it didnt help much at all.

I bought a bunch of them over the last few summers to fix and sell to guys at work.

The drilled out diffuser and a 1/2 or 5/8's hole in the front or a tube welded on the upper side seemed to be the best for power.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I have seen several on ebay with the problem and member Fish has mentioned it several times when the Intenz subject is brought up.

That was easy to misunderstood what I said, sorry. I meant that I had never seen not being able to get them tight enough and not have the problem you mention.

Face it some guys could screw up a steel ball with a rubber hammer and it will always be that way.

 

[OhioGregg]

As you can see I'm kinda orange and white fan but I have picked up a 306A and 3400 with another one coming this weekend. I kind of like em. Parts are alot cheaper than the orange and white ones. Looks like I might be hanging around this thread for awhile.

Thats great to hear! Now, if you could just change that avitar of yours, to scarlet & gray instead of maize & blue, LOL :hmm3grin2orange:
Just pullin your leg.


Gregg,

 

[OhioGregg]

The more aggressive chain pulls the bar back due to taking more bite into the wood. Have you ever planed any wood by hand?

Yes, I have used a hand planer, not often or recently..LOL
It allways seemed to me, the sharper the blade in the plane was, the easier and better it cut. Same with any chain saw I ever run, or any other kinda saw, for that matter.

But, like I said, I never ran or even seen one of those Intenz setups, up close.
I still think I'd use a Good sharp chain,adjusted right, and tightend down well.
The only reason saws in that class have the so-called safety-anti kickback chain on them, is they are required to, by law, as I understood it.

I'm not tryin to argue with ya scottr, but the reasoning just don't make sence to me, thats all.


Gregg,

 

[scottr]

Yes, I have used a hand planer, not often or recently..LOL
It allways seemed to me, the sharper the blade in the plane was, the easier and better it cut. Same with any chain saw I ever run, or any other kinda saw, for that matter.

But, like I said, I never ran or even seen one of those Intenz setups, up close.
I still think I'd use a Good sharp chain,adjusted right, and tightend down well.
The only reason saws in that class have the so-called safety-anti kickback chain on them, is they are required to, by law, as I understood it.

I'm not tryin to argue with ya scottr, but the reasoning just don't make sence to me, thats all.


Gregg,

I can understand your point but my experience and many others is that if you tighten down the bar nuts just shy of yielding the plastic case it will slip with a non safety chain. If you do a search there are a few threads about it. Do a detailed search and use Intenz as the subject and Oregon Engineer as the author. If I had not experienced it myself I would have a hard time believing it. There are no back-up plates behind the the head of my PP220 bar bolts, my Husqvarna 41 has a back-up plate and has a much firmer stop when tightening the bar nut.

 

[sefh3]

Thats great to hear! Now, if you could just change that avitar of yours, to scarlet & gray instead of maize & blue, LOL :hmm3grin2orange:
Just pullin your leg.


Gregg,

Sorry man THAT will never happen!!!!! Maize and Blue!!!!

GO BLUE!!!

 

[sefh3]

But, like I said, I never ran or even seen one of those Intenz setups, up close.
I still think I'd use a Good sharp chain,adjusted right, and tightend down well.



Gregg,

I have not seen this setup either but isn't that true about any bar and chain setup. The sharper the better!!!

 

[scottr]

I wouldnt be suggesting something without knowing for sure, I have done at least a dozen or so of them. The first one I did as you said, and it didnt help much at all.

I bought a bunch of them over the last few summers to fix and sell to guys at work.

The drilled out diffuser and a 1/2 or 5/8's hole in the front or a tube welded on the upper side seemed to be the best for power.

Mark, did you leave in the spark arrester screen and did you use the dimple area in the lower front for your 1/2" or 5/8" hole?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Mark, did you leave in the spark arrester screen and did you use the dimple area in the lower front for your 1/2" or 5/8" hole?

Yes the dimpled area, just like I first told Kevin. The spark arrestor is up to you, but I uselly throw them out.

 

[scottr]

Yes the dimpled area, just like I first told Kevin. The spark arrestor is up to you, but I uselly throw them out.

Just to make sure we are on the same page, are you are talking specifically about the Poulan with the small exhaust outlet that has the inserted heat shield like Kevin's PP260 ?

 

[KsWoodsMan]

I've got a few of these saws and like them. I've only found them to have either a 36cc or 42cc engine. No 33's ,38s, or 40cc engines.

After a quick muffler mod they easily pull a more aggressive chain. They do look out of place with 72 chisel chain. But, It's been done here.

The first thing mine get is a bucking spike added and better chain. I keep a few loops of 91VX or 91VP chain in 56 and 62 DL to run til later. These go on with the bucking spike while the cover is off. The one off a PP295/PP4620AVX fits it perfectly. It could be bigger but it works.

Second is a muffler mod, pull the limiters and retune. Richening it up till just after it stops 4 stroking and then just barely back to lean.

Third is to change out the sprocket, bar and chain for a 7 pin 0.325 rim/drum, 16" Pro-Lite bar and a Oregon G66 chain. There are 8 pin rims for these too , I just havent picked any up to try, yet.

They run this way very nicely. After the muffler mod, the original sprocket tip bars give up pretty quick. Having the 16" 0.325 set-up ready is a must.

So far I've done this to my 36 cc Patriot 1900 and 2250, the 42cc 2550, 2 PP260's and my Jonsered 2138. The 2550 is going to get wider ports and a completely reworked muffler , one of these days. The WT covers on it get a few smirks till they see the chips fly.

 

[KMB]

KWM, good bunch of info there. Thanks.

You're due rep...but according to the system, I've given out to much today.

Kevin

 

[KsWoodsMan]

KMB - Thanks, I'll be the first to admit they aren't an expensive saw but they can surprise you. I'd much rather carry around a lighter saw and not feel it quite as much when the sun goes down. Than to carry something only marginally faster, much heavier and uses 2-3X the fuel and oil through the brush.

I've been known to fell 18" - 20" stuff with that setup instead of carrying in a second saw plus everything else ...

It works for me !

If I know I'll be in bigger stuff, I'll take a bigger saw. Otherwise, No.

 

[KMB]

KWM, I already have my 2 go-to saws for the cutting I do, but this PP260 was given to me and I'd like to get it running and later try my hand at some mild porting. I'll check it over to make sure it has spark and that there are no air leaks (or any other major issues) before I put more money into it. I'll have to set myself a price cap on it, because I don't want to put more into it than what it's worth to sell. If all goes well, it will be used a little with the other '260' I have. What's that saying...variety is the spice of life?

Kevin

 

[OhioGregg]

S25DA Problem

I recently got my 3rd. saw in this line. The first two are running great! This one is giving me a little trouble. Its a 38cc S25DA. This saw had no fuel lines in it, so I put new fuel lines and filter in it, with the excellent help of Mark & Joe's tutorial posts.

It has a Walbro WT19 carb on it. The problem I'm guessing is in the carb. If you squirt some fuel directly in the carb, it will fire and run for couple seconds. But, will not draw fuel, to keep running.

I got a kit for the carb, and put that in, but still the same.
You can see fuel in the line running up to carb when ya tip saw forward, but carb doesn't seem to draw fuel to keep it running.

Any suggestions are welcome! LOL Another question that comes to mind is the needle settings, as a starting point on these? When I cleaned it, and reistalled them, I put them back in about where they were when I removed them. Roughly 2 turns out on both. H & L

Not being real familiar with this design yet, is the impulse port similar to the setup on the 3400 style carbs and cylinders?
Seems like this saw too, will be good runner, from the little I have heard it! LOL

Gregg,

 

[cjcocn]

I recently got my 3rd. saw in this line. The first two are running great! This one is giving me a little trouble. Its a 38cc S25DA. This saw had no fuel lines in it, so I put new fuel lines and filter in it, with the excellent help of Mark & Joe's tutorial posts.

It has a Walbro WT19 carb on it. The problem I'm guessing is in the carb. If you squirt some fuel directly in the carb, it will fire and run for couple seconds. But, will not draw fuel, to keep running.

I got a kit for the carb, and put that in, but still the same.
You can see fuel in the line running up to carb when ya tip saw forward, but carb doesn't seem to draw fuel to keep it running.

Any suggestions are welcome! LOL Another question that comes to mind is the needle settings, as a starting point on these? When I cleaned it, and reistalled them, I put them back in about where they were when I removed them. Roughly 2 turns out on both. H & L

Not being real familiar with this design yet, is the impulse port similar to the setup on the 3400 style carbs and cylinders?
Seems like this saw too, will be good runner, from the little I have heard it! LOL

Gregg,

I suggest you check your PMs.

 

[OhioGregg]

Thanks Chris !!!
That should get me going, I hope..
Anything I can do for ya, just holler!


Gregg,